Hi, I have a 5 month old springer who loves to jump, we have only had her for 5 weeks and within days she jumped the baby gate so I purchased an extra tall pet gate which is 108 cm high. During the day if I go upstairs she won't jump it but if I go out when I get back she has jumped it, what can I do? It's so hard when I'm not in the house to tell her no.... Help!!!!
Lizzie barrette
Can you just close the door?
Jumping when you are not there is probably due to him being a little worried when alone and wanting to have a better vantage point for your return (and hopefully not enough distress that he begins to damage exit routes or household items).
Make sure he has plenty of things to do when inthere such as lots of food dispensing toys, scatter feeding etc.
Work gradually to desensitise him to leaving cues and to your leaving. Dog is behind gate with yummy stuffed Kongs or other great boredom busters. Once he is comfortable with a stage (i.e. no jumping, no distress signaling e.g. pacing, drooling, lip licking, vocalising etc.) move onto the next one.
If at any time he jumps the gate, say 'uh-oh' and calmly bring back in to the right side. Go back and work at the last stage that he was comfortable.
For example the stages may be:
- put your coat on (get your keys etc.), say your leaving cue (e.g. See ya soon) and just stand right beside the gate (but on the exit side). As he stays there toss a few more treats to him
- put your coat on, say your leaving cue, walk to the front door (once within view of dog) and just stand there. As he stays there toss a few more treats to him
- put your coat on, say leaving cue, walk to front door and put hand on door handle, and as above
- as above but open door, just stand there at the open door
- as above, step out through open door and step back in
- as above, step out, close over door and immediatley step back in
- as above have door closed for a two-count and step back in
- as above and gradually increase the count for which the door is closed over e.g. 5 count then 10 count then 20 count and so on
- as above step out and move away from door for 2 count
- as above and increase count for which you are away from door
Move through any stages that you are out of sight very slowly as having to return to him to put him back in will be rewarding to him.
Practice lots and lots and lots so that he gets it. Best of luck
Jumping when you are not there is probably due to him being a little worried when alone and wanting to have a better vantage point for your return (and hopefully not enough distress that he begins to damage exit routes or household items).
Make sure he has plenty of things to do when inthere such as lots of food dispensing toys, scatter feeding etc.
Work gradually to desensitise him to leaving cues and to your leaving. Dog is behind gate with yummy stuffed Kongs or other great boredom busters. Once he is comfortable with a stage (i.e. no jumping, no distress signaling e.g. pacing, drooling, lip licking, vocalising etc.) move onto the next one.
If at any time he jumps the gate, say 'uh-oh' and calmly bring back in to the right side. Go back and work at the last stage that he was comfortable.
For example the stages may be:
- put your coat on (get your keys etc.), say your leaving cue (e.g. See ya soon) and just stand right beside the gate (but on the exit side). As he stays there toss a few more treats to him
- put your coat on, say your leaving cue, walk to the front door (once within view of dog) and just stand there. As he stays there toss a few more treats to him
- put your coat on, say leaving cue, walk to front door and put hand on door handle, and as above
- as above but open door, just stand there at the open door
- as above, step out through open door and step back in
- as above, step out, close over door and immediatley step back in
- as above have door closed for a two-count and step back in
- as above and gradually increase the count for which the door is closed over e.g. 5 count then 10 count then 20 count and so on
- as above step out and move away from door for 2 count
- as above and increase count for which you are away from door
Move through any stages that you are out of sight very slowly as having to return to him to put him back in will be rewarding to him.
Practice lots and lots and lots so that he gets it. Best of luck
Best to gradually desensitize him, as Tripod describes.
As a short-term emergency measure, you could try blocking the area where he jumps from.
I used to put a great big cardboard box in front of the baby gate (on the dog's side). If the pup tried to climb on it, it would bend under his weight. It worked well, though in truth I'm not sure he ever tried very hard to get out. He was a pretty calm little guy.
The box was the one his crate came in, about 2 feet high, 3 feet long, and maybe 6 inches thick.
I also used his small cat-carrier crate to block the baby gate until he figured out that he could climb on top of that.
And of course lots of interesting things INSIDE the babygate with him. Chew toys, stuffed kongs, etc. I also had canine lullabies playing softly on the CD player and a DAP diffuser to help soothe puppy nerves.
As a short-term emergency measure, you could try blocking the area where he jumps from.
I used to put a great big cardboard box in front of the baby gate (on the dog's side). If the pup tried to climb on it, it would bend under his weight. It worked well, though in truth I'm not sure he ever tried very hard to get out. He was a pretty calm little guy.
The box was the one his crate came in, about 2 feet high, 3 feet long, and maybe 6 inches thick.
I also used his small cat-carrier crate to block the baby gate until he figured out that he could climb on top of that.
And of course lots of interesting things INSIDE the babygate with him. Chew toys, stuffed kongs, etc. I also had canine lullabies playing softly on the CD player and a DAP diffuser to help soothe puppy nerves.
Cant really help as my springers have never tried jumping the dog gate. They jump at it when we are there but never tried jumping over
My cocker on the other hand can pull herself over a baby gate lol
My cocker on the other hand can pull herself over a baby gate lol
Thank u all for ur replies, I really like the idea of the diffuser I've never heard of that, and I'm going to try the CD too.
The area she is in is just the kitchen and the baby gate is in the doorway between the lounge and kitchen.
I don't like to leave too many toys in with her as she destroys them, so I only leave teddies as for some reason she doesn't destroy them and also her kong. If u can recommend any other tough toys that would be great.
Thanks again
The area she is in is just the kitchen and the baby gate is in the doorway between the lounge and kitchen.
I don't like to leave too many toys in with her as she destroys them, so I only leave teddies as for some reason she doesn't destroy them and also her kong. If u can recommend any other tough toys that would be great.
Thanks again
Lots and lots and lots of stuffed Kongs (there are different types so different challaneges!).
You keep the DAP plugged in all the time but be careful as they do smoke as they empty I therefore only use the DAP spray on beds etc. now.
You keep the DAP plugged in all the time but be careful as they do smoke as they empty
I therefore only use the DAP spray on beds etc. now.
put the baby-gate ABOVE the pet-gate - and as *tripod suggests, lots of busywork; a frozen stuffed-Kong,
a hollow leg-bone thats thick-walled + sanitized: stuff it with her kibble, softened, and mashed with low-fat
grated-mozz, stuff the bone + freeze it like a popsicle...
KONGS + hollow-bones are both top-rack safe for dishwasher cleaning; scrape out leftovers with a butter-knife,
soak them in a quart-size yogurt-container or similar to soften any bits, and wash While Damp - if U let it dry,
there may be bacteria-laced hardened bits under the new-stuffing.
a BUSTER-cube for dry kibble is another food-toy, a bit noisy especially if U have hardwood or tile floors;
if U are in an apt or a split-house and there are tenants below, the Buster-cube is really only good
for carpeted areas, to avoid driving the downstairs residents nutz - BUT if they work days, the pup / dog can have it then...
CHEW-toys like Nylabones [the creamy opaque hard-nylon ones, NOT the soft transparent-yellow-brown ones,
even pups can chew off + swallow bits], rubber chew-toys like the molecular-ball from Kong,
http://img01.static-nextag.com/imag.../JW-Pet-Bopperoo-Jack-Rubber-Dog-Chew-Toy-43154/0/000/006/888/894/688889477.jpg
You can get expanding trellis from garden shops and fix it to the top of the babygate. It's still see-through, but would make it too tall to jump and too wobbly to climb over.
Obviously address the anxiety too!
Obviously address the anxiety too!
I think it can take a couple of days for it to fully take effect, so keep it on.
One vial lasts about a month, plugged in all the time.
Here's the website for the lullabies
Canine Lullabies
and the YouTube video that sold me on it:
YouTube - ‪Canine Lullabies:50 Dogs Stop Barking in Less Than 2 Minutes‬‎
I wonder how much of my up being calm is his innate nature and how much has to do with DAP and the lullabies CD. I still use DAP, may do through his teenage stage, and only use the CD once a month or so if I think he might get stressed.
I`ve heard of dogs getting their legs caught jumping these - personally I wouldn`t use them if I were out. Is there no alternative? Can you not just close the doors of rooms you don`t want her in? As a puppy, I doubt a DAP is going to do much. Especially a Springer! Maybe a good walk before she`s left would be an idea?
! Maybe a good walk before she`s left would be an idea?
Why??? DAP, in its natural form is released in the nest by the bitch to puppies...?I As a puppy, I doubt a DAP is going to do much. Especially a Springer
I've been using DAP with Nunuk since I got him and believe it has a fair deal to do with the LACK of behavioural problems I've had with this collie x jack russell. With taht mix, it wouldn't surprise anyone if he were h*ll on wheels. But he isn't. I believe DAP has been a huge help. IMO, it's perfect for a puppy.
A bit about DAP, from Veterinary Medicine, Behavior and Training of Cats and Dogs - Articles
What is D.A.P.™?
Developed for pet owners by veterinarians, D.A.P.™ (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) mimics the properties of the natural pheromones of the lactating female. Within three to five days after giving birth, the female generates pheromones that give their puppies a sense of well-being and reassurance, known as appeasing pheromones.
How can D.A.P.™ calm dogs in stressful situations?
Pheromones are picked up and detected by an animal's sense of smell producing specific responses. By replicating this signal of comfort, D.A.P.™ helps alleviate fear and stress related signs in the puppy and adult dog.
How well does D.A.P.™ work?
In clinical trials with D.A.P.™, destructive behavior and vocalization (excessive barking and whining) were improved or resolved by 72 percent and 85 percent respectively. (Clinical trials were conducted by Ceva Sante Animale between November 1999 and November 2000, and were under the specific direction of Dr. Patrick Pageat.)
A bit about DAP, from Veterinary Medicine, Behavior and Training of Cats and Dogs - Articles
What is D.A.P.™?
Developed for pet owners by veterinarians, D.A.P.™ (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) mimics the properties of the natural pheromones of the lactating female. Within three to five days after giving birth, the female generates pheromones that give their puppies a sense of well-being and reassurance, known as appeasing pheromones.
How can D.A.P.™ calm dogs in stressful situations?
Pheromones are picked up and detected by an animal's sense of smell producing specific responses. By replicating this signal of comfort, D.A.P.™ helps alleviate fear and stress related signs in the puppy and adult dog.
How well does D.A.P.™ work?
In clinical trials with D.A.P.™, destructive behavior and vocalization (excessive barking and whining) were improved or resolved by 72 percent and 85 percent respectively. (Clinical trials were conducted by Ceva Sante Animale between November 1999 and November 2000, and were under the specific direction of Dr. Patrick Pageat.)
Amber one of my whippets jumps gates for fun. When it was warm I would shut them outside leave the door open and shut the gate. She would not only jump the gate but up the step too. Inever left them out if I wasn't there and I crated them if I had to go out.
I used the partition out of a crate and fastened it to the curtain pole at the top and to the gate at the bottom that stopped her.
Could you just shut the doors of the rooms you don't want him to go in when you go out or just shut him in one room. If he miss times a jump when you are not there he could hurt himself quite badly. I would also think jumping such hights as a young pup he is risking damaging his joints. My Amber is an adult dog years old but she never tried to jump the gates when she was younger.
I used the partition out of a crate and fastened it to the curtain pole at the top and to the gate at the bottom that stopped her.
Could you just shut the doors of the rooms you don't want him to go in when you go out or just shut him in one room. If he miss times a jump when you are not there he could hurt himself quite badly. I would also think jumping such hights as a young pup he is risking damaging his joints. My Amber is an adult dog years old but she never tried to jump the gates when she was younger.
hey, claire! :--)As a puppy, I doubt a DAP is going to do much. Especially a Springer!
this really threw me - what does age have to do with DAP's usability? or breed?!
all bitches produce the pheromone when lactating - it's not breed-specific, it's domestic-dog specific.
have U used DAP? if so, which form: the diffuser, the collar, or the pump-spray?
i have been told by fellow-trainers that the diffuser, being SITE-specific, is less useful for B-Mod re outside activities;
IOW, if the dog is reactive on-leash outside the house, the DAP in the living-room where the crate is,
will not really begin to improve the leash-reactive behavior for a couple of weeks, even a month.
BUT - for fears within + around the home - the DAP-diffuser can be helpful in a shorter time.
personally, as i do a lot of B-Mod, my experiences have been with dogs who already have serious issues [sep-anx,
nuisance-barking, phobias, OCD behaviors, aggro to humans, aggro to dogs, fear-biters, semi-feral, and so on].
since these occur OUTSIDE as well as inside the house, if the budget permits we may use *both*
the diffuser + the pump-spray; if it is one or the other, it's the pump-spray which can go along anywhere,
and be refreshed as needed, in the context Where and WHEN the behavior is happening.
one spritz is a pre-measured amount; i use it on collars [OFF the dog, spray + replace], leashes, beds,
the car back-seat, the crate... each spritz last approx 90-mins
see
Pet Forums Community - View Single Post - dog body-language - and why it matters so much...
for DAP and other calmatives - Where, When, How, etc.
happy training,
- terry
This is great advice and have heard this before, but my problem is this:Can you just close the door?
Jumping when you are not there is probably due to him being a little worried when alone and wanting to have a better vantage point for your return (and hopefully not enough distress that he begins to damage exit routes or household items).
Make sure he has plenty of things to do when inthere such as lots of food dispensing toys, scatter feeding etc.
Work gradually to desensitise him to leaving cues and to your leaving. Dog is behind gate with yummy stuffed Kongs or other great boredom busters. Once he is comfortable with a stage (i.e. no jumping, no distress signaling e.g. pacing, drooling, lip licking, vocalising etc.) move onto the next one.
If at any time he jumps the gate, say 'uh-oh' and calmly bring back in to the right side. Go back and work at the last stage that he was comfortable.
For example the stages may be:
- put your coat on (get your keys etc.), say your leaving cue (e.g. See ya soon) and just stand right beside the gate (but on the exit side). As he stays there toss a few more treats to him
- put your coat on, say your leaving cue, walk to the front door (once within view of dog) and just stand there. As he stays there toss a few more treats to him
- put your coat on, say leaving cue, walk to front door and put hand on door handle, and as above
- as above but open door, just stand there at the open door
- as above, step out through open door and step back in
- as above, step out, close over door and immediatley step back in
- as above have door closed for a two-count and step back in
- as above and gradually increase the count for which the door is closed over e.g. 5 count then 10 count then 20 count and so on
- as above step out and move away from door for 2 count
- as above and increase count for which you are away from door
Move through any stages that you are out of sight very slowly as having to return to him to put him back in will be rewarding to him.
Practice lots and lots and lots so that he gets it. Best of luck
We rescued a collie cross in April 2011, took a while for her to settle being left on her own, but she settled and had been ok in our kitchen behind the baby gate for months and months. just recently we went away on holiday to France for 1 week, (we go away often for 4 day weekends and regularly leave our dog with my boyfriends parents. she absolutely adores them both and loves visiting and never any problems when we arrived back home. always the same as before). But on this occassion ever since we returned she has been escaping over the baby gate into the front room where she then barks at everyone going by and tears up the post. (normal guard dog things) but we obviously dont want that, so had to add an additional piece to the top of the baby gate to stop her jumping it, but she still manages to jump over it and hurt herself doing it (blood everywhere but we couldnt find any cuts on her at all, so maybe it was in her mouth??) we've tried closing the door but she scratches at the door and all the paint and wood comes off and gets so stressed out that she drinks all her water from panting so much and wees everywhere. so we cant shut the door, so now we are stuck with her jumping the baby gate.
Do you think this technique will work on a dog who USED to be well behaved and stayed behind the baby gate who now has decided to jump it all the time? we dont know what changed in her, but is very frustrating, she has all her toys, treat balls, the radio on etc but nothing soothes her when we leave and she stresses straight away which she never used to do.
If you think this will work then we will give it a go.
We were thinking of doing that, but was worried she'd still be really stressed out.
but i guess before this setback she was fine before being behind the baby gate.
we've also started waking up to poo and wee in the kitchen, which she hasn't done for months and months.
we take her out for a walk last thing at night and she usually waits til we're downstairs to let her out (even though she has access to the dog flap).
i just dont get why she's being like this. we don't hear a peep from her at night, so she's not scared or stressed out and can go outside if she wants to but has decided to start pooing and weeing in the kitchen.
frustrated!
but i guess before this setback she was fine before being behind the baby gate.
we've also started waking up to poo and wee in the kitchen, which she hasn't done for months and months.
we take her out for a walk last thing at night and she usually waits til we're downstairs to let her out (even though she has access to the dog flap).
i just dont get why she's being like this. we don't hear a peep from her at night, so she's not scared or stressed out and can go outside if she wants to but has decided to start pooing and weeing in the kitchen.
frustrated!
- In early-August, U'd only had her for 5-weeks. This is the 3rd week of October -
U've only had her for 16-weeks, as of this past Tuesday.
How can it be months & months since she voided in the kitchen?
- She was 5-MO on the 7th of August; that would make her 7.5-MO now.
How old was she when U stopped crating her at night?
- Has she had her first estrus?
If she has not, i'd be calling my vet & scheduling it ASAP - as approaching or DURING estrus,
bitches advertise their inviting condition by frequent marking, along with more-frequent urination;
they will also use stool to mark / advertise.
My suggestions:
- get her spayed ASAP if she's intact.
- go back to basics, *stop* expecting her to take herself out, & crate her at night.
She's obviously not ready for that step, & can't be responsible for herself at night - for whatever
reason, & it could be as simple as anxiety about being outside alone in the dark. Perhaps there are
strange noises, passersby, the neighbor comes home from a late-night job, etc - who knows?
A shipping-crate [airline-approved type with a solid bottom & walls] will both give her some reassuring
privacy, & contain any messes neatly off the floor - the 4 walls & limited floor space will also
encourage her to wait, & void outside --- not in her sleeping quarters.
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