i use Flexi mostly with my own dog- u can get these in different sizes for different breeds and pulling strengths- sizes varies and goes from xs-xl

I use Longlines for puppies and dogs for recall so if they decide they arent going to listen to me the lead is long enough for me to catch

I like Harnesses and have always used a harness for my dogs as its more comfortable for the dog- can get padded harnesses like the cosydog harness for those cold winter nights and mornings to the more summery type harnesses
I have the Ancol harness at the moment

but i think its a good idea to purchase harnesses and leads from a wholesle on ebay at Buy it now price as you can get a good bargain, also I love the idea of putting your own tags on just incase a dog goes missing

Good luck

show some pictures of what you have found:biggrin5:

 

I do like the idea of having my own harnesses and leads - that way if it fails, it is my own fault, rather than relying on someone else to maintain the equipment

So far, my favourites (in design/attractiveness - no idea if they are actually 'good' quality leads or not!) are these:
Envy Henna Lead Synthetic Leads for Sale (in the 20mm width)
Dogleesh Other Leads for Sale

I worry about ebay wholesalers with quality - cheap price can tend to mean cheap quality. Which goes back to the owning my own, and maintaining equipment side of things.

 

You are using that brand of lead which is supplied by owner, The same is with a harness.
Of course you should have few spare one leads and collars in case of emergency. You can have a set of them: flexi, long and standard.
You cannot use more than 1 long line in the same time in safety way. You can use, again to have a full control over dogs, only 2 felxis in the same time.
And any number of normal leads which you are able to hold in your hands. For example for me it would be 2 and 2 max

 

Why will you not be using what the owner uses? I have a dog walker and she uses my leads and collars. I wouldn't want my dog walked in a harness (it encourages him to pull) and certainly not one that I had not supplied and not a flexi.

Good luck with your business, I'm just wondering why not the owners eqiuipment. Obviously it's a good idea to have spare leads

 

My own dog leads are TuffStuff ones, double hooked training leads and these double as my spares. As others have said, I wouldn't use harnesses unless they were supplied by the owners - anyway you would have to have loads of them in all different sizes so it would be very impractical anyway imo

 

I use whatever is supplied by the owner of the dog boarding with me. I would only use a harness or headcollar with a dog if I had first discussed it fully with the owner and had their consent - in writing.

Re Flexis - I use one with my own dog BUT only in certain parks. I never, ever, ever walk him using a Flexi, even if it's in the locked position. They simply are not safe to use near roads.

My personal favourite for leads, for walking, are double-ended leads. i.e. with two trigger hooks. I own two; one is a long black leather one, the other is an Ezydog Vario 6, Both great leads.

 

Everything I've read on 'how-to' for professional dog walking suggests using a harness as collars can be slipped. Obviously that'd be part of the agreement, but I'd far rather use a halti (or similar) harness with a dog if harnesses encourage that individual to pull than have a dog slip their collar (and therefore lose their ID tag) while with me.

With buying my own leads - no offense meant to any dog owner (including my own family), but if I'm going to be relying on equipment I want it to be my responsibility to maintain it - that way, if a dog (heaven forbid!) snaps a lead and flees, it is my own fault (and covered by my insurance if needs be). Also means I can avoid choke-leads with the "Oh, we prefer to use our own leads for safety purposes", rather than insult a customer. That is not to say I don't plan on putting the three tick boxes on the walking agreement to see if there is any particular lead that they don't want used with their dog - I know some people are extremely anti Flexi leads for example. I don't mind not using a certain type of lead - I just want to be the one checking that it hasn't rusted up/frayed/the stitching coming loose - stops me getting complacent which is always a good thing!

Chances are, to start of, I'm not going to be walking many dogs at a time, and will always have single dog walks available. Obviously, as someone has said, you can't use more than two flexi leads (to be honest, I reckon I could only handle one - so only useful with individuals). Same with long lines - mostly for use in working out whether the dog can actually recall, or whether the owners just think their dog is awesome (pets are like kids sometimes - they can do no wrong!).

I'm more than happy to buy a selection of harnesses and leads (and toys, balls, blankets, etc, etc etc!). It is in my budget, and not to mention being able to embroider leads with my company name/colours. I'm all for subtle advertising.

As far as I've planned, I have no intesion of walking dogs anywhere near roads. Or livestock. Or children. Children during holidays is possible, but so far my planned routes are all off-roading - there are no dog parks (tbh, I've never even seen a dog park - they are rather mythological!).

Last thing...double ended leads. Seem interesting enough, but I'm not sure of the purpose for them? I'm assuming you don't attach them to the same dog? The photo I've looked at on TuffStuff doesn't appear to have a 'handle', and all I can see when I look at it is rope burn when the dogs slide back and forth. I may just be missing the point mind you - never even heard of/seen them before they were mentioned here! :mellow:

Oh, and last-last thing - thanks to all the people recommending brand names - I'm compiling a list for my wholesaler friend to have a look for. Your suggestions are very welcomed, and exactly what I'm looking for, thank you

 

After reading your post I think that your experience with dog isn't big.
Instead of investing in leads and harnesses invest in some courses.
So sorry for being hash.
If you want to be sure that in 100% dog will be safe with you, don't be a dog walker.
When you are working with animals everything can go wrong. Lead no matter yours or owner can snapped, some dog can easily slipped out of harness but they couldn't do that with collar. For you there is no difference whose lead it was. How about a place where you want to walk dogs? You are lucky if you have a one far from traffic, free from kids, other dogs, people and whatsoever you want to avoid. But imo places like this doesn't exist or are rare.

Double ended lead is a training lead, you can regulate length of it because it has got few rings usually placed on the end, in the middle and next to other clip. Also that kind of lead you can clip to the dog collar and harness.

Could you please tell me what experience you have with dogs?

 

I know a few dog walkers that only use their own leads - they tend to use rope slip leads as they are quick and easy to get on and off or rope leads with a trigger. Personally I don't like rope leads - they are bulky in your hand - I use a cushioned lead. Ancol Milano Lead 1m x 15mm Synthetic Leads for Sale

Generally I use the dogs own lead, but I have my own leads (same as above), longlines, extendable leads, harnesses and headcollars to use on my clients dogs is necessary of which they are fully aware. I use my leads if they come with long or heavy leads or a string extendable as I wont use those -too dangerous. My tape extendables I use on dogs that can't go off lead for a particular reason (recall, medical issues, etc) with a harness but they walk on a normal lead (theirs or mine) to the park. I use long lines to assess recall and I use 1 as a drag line with one particular dog with a harness (mine). Dogs may walk very well for their owners but when they are walking to the park with their friends it can be too exciting and they will pull. I use headcollars in this instance.

I also have my own collars with my contact details embroidered in TuffStuff - products which the dogs wear whilst in my care.

 

Andromeda.
To be fair, most of my experience (for pets) is small mammals, but my speciality is exotics, primates specifically. That said, I've had two dogs (well, 'have' one still, he's alive ) - not a great deal of experience with domestic dogs specifically, we can all agree on that, but for that very purpose I fully intend to start small (as in one dog at a time), as well as do the associated courses as I work upwards (except pet first aid, which is critical from the off!) - problem is the big difference between £50 on equipment, and about £300 for a course. Pouring profit back into the business for courses is

You didn't seem to get my point regarding wanting my own leads though. If my equipment fails, I am 100% liable (legally speaking). If I'm using someone else's equipment and it fails...it isn't great. Like I said, it means I can maintain my own equipment, get it branded with my details, and avoid things I'd consider dangerous (choke leads, and string extendables being the ones I am really not fond of!) without feeling as if I'm insulting anyone.

Never said the places I'm planning on using aren't dog and people free. Just no nearby busy (even remotely so) roads or livestock, and the children tend to stay around one central location, which there are many routes to avoid. During the weekday daytime (working hours), I think I've seen perhaps five other people on my dog walks (mostly cyclists and joggers). During the weekends, early morning (before work hours), and evening (after work hours), then there are (of course) a fair amount more people (mainly dog walkers and fishermen if you go towards the lake), but even so, perhaps 1 other person on an hour's walk (assuming you don't intentionally walk into the children-friendly parts, which I wouldn't!).

I am confused by the fact that everything I've read (supposedly by professional dog walkers) seems to agree that harnesses are the safest, most dog-friendly, and most dog-walker friendly bits of kit. If this is not true, why are they writing it?

Totallypets.
Thanks for the lead recommendation
What you say you do (use normal leads to the walk, then tape extendables for non-recall dogs, and long lines to assess recall) is identical to what I had in my mind as what I would do (glad someone else does it, makes me feel less alone!).

I agree re the rope leads. My own dog has a flexi (tape one) and a normal lead, although he mostly goes on the flexi. He's still very spritely (bless his ancient heart!), but he's pretty much blind, deaf and isn't exactly huge. But then again, he manages (or has done) for his nearly 15 years being let off after about a 5 minute walk into the woods, and he has zero recall. He was a Battersea rescue, combined with lacking the braincells goldfish are born with (he managed 'say please' by lifting his paw when he wants something, and barking to go in/out of the door to pee, but though we tried, sit, stay, come and roll over were all lost), although he was a really good escapologist (still would be if he could see, no doubt!). But yes, tape flexi's suit him well now - he can bimble about and explore the undergrowth without losing whoever is walking him. So I approve of flexi's for that sort of reason. The string ones...urgh, who thought they were a good idea?

I was also suggested to get leads that are at least 19cm wide so that they will be strong enough for any species. Having only a smallish dog (and only a cocker spaniel before him), I'm not sure if this is reasonable, insane, or not enough - I've never had a great dane or a boxer for example to compare. I was, like with everything else, planning on getting a small selection of strengths (as well as types) so I have a couple of medium strengths, a couple of strong, one weak...and a couple of flexis, a couple normal leads, and a long line. As a starting point at least!

Good idea with the embroidered collars - do you remove their own collar, or do they wear two? I ask because I wouldn't want to remove the owner's tag, but I'm not sure how comfortable two collars might be (and you don't learn unless you ask or try - and since I've already started the topic, I'd rather ask first!).

Lastly, by headcollars, do you mean like halti's? Or something else? That is something I've never used, but like with everything, I'm happy to take on board any hints or tips, and headcollars are something I'd consider using if they are recommended!

 

Why people writing that harness is safer?
Because there is no pressure on dogs neck, so risk of neck injury doesn't exist. Problem is that some dogs can easily slipped out of harness. My Max doest that, any harness any time.

I understand your point regarding own leads but I don't think so that insurer will ask you who's lead did you use. Of course if somebody delivers you lead which is in bad condition chances that lead snaps are bigger.
If there is manufacture defect even the most expensive lead will snap.
Keep those money for marketing.

I bought in home bargain lead for my dog for £1 wide, more than 1m long with nice rubber handle - this means that lead won't slip out easily from your hand I also changed my dogs collar. Every time when dog shakes lead landed on the ground. My thought was: cheap lead so that clip has to be broken. I binned lead and bought new one, more expensive. How surprised I was when after shake situation repeated... The collar has got flat metal ring and any lead when dog shakes will slip out.

I had many leads and collars and try few harnesses on Max, from experience I know that not the most expensive is the best. The best equipment is that which you can handle with confidence.
For me: wild, padded collar, wild at least 1m long lead with rubber no-slip handle.
Harness only with front clip.
But remember than some dogs hates harnesses - Halle won't walk in it, longer she wears the harness walks get shorter

Imo you are focusing on wrong things. Try to gain more experience even if that means read more dog related books, be ready to face dog aggression and learn how to deal with it. You cannot predict everything. You can have your dog under perfect control but when other aggressive dog will attack you calm dog what you going to do?

I have dog for to many years, I know them and I know what they capable of.
My dogs learned me a lot because they weren't easy to handle dogs

Did you ever use a head collar? Do you know how to use it properly? Head collars are training not walking tools.
Why you want to remove a dog collar and replace it with your own?
If you want to put a tag with your number extra I could understand it but again if you will loose a dog and you won't find him up to 1.5 h dog is lost so you will have to inform an owner about your lost.
That leads to another question. Do you know what to do when you lost a dog? How to help him to find you?

 

Andromeda.
To be fair, most of my experience (for pets) is small mammals, but my speciality is exotics, primates specifically. That said, I've had two dogs (well, 'have' one still, he's alive ) - not a great deal of experience with domestic dogs specifically, we can all agree on that, but for that very purpose I fully intend to start small (as in one dog at a time), as well as do the associated courses as I work upwards (except pet first aid, which is critical from the off!) - problem is the big difference between £50 on equipment, and about £300 for a course. Pouring profit back into the business for courses is

You didn't seem to get my point regarding wanting my own leads though. If my equipment fails, I am 100% liable (legally speaking). If I'm using someone else's equipment and it fails...it isn't great. Like I said, it means I can maintain my own equipment, get it branded with my details, and avoid things I'd consider dangerous (choke leads, and string extendables being the ones I am really not fond of!) without feeling as if I'm insulting anyone.

Never said the places I'm planning on using aren't dog and people free. Just no nearby busy (even remotely so) roads or livestock, and the children tend to stay around one central location, which there are many routes to avoid. During the weekday daytime (working hours), I think I've seen perhaps five other people on my dog walks (mostly cyclists and joggers). During the weekends, early morning (before work hours), and evening (after work hours), then there are (of course) a fair amount more people (mainly dog walkers and fishermen if you go towards the lake), but even so, perhaps 1 other person on an hour's walk (assuming you don't intentionally walk into the children-friendly parts, which I wouldn't!).

I am confused by the fact that everything I've read (supposedly by professional dog walkers) seems to agree that harnesses are the safest, most dog-friendly, and most dog-walker friendly bits of kit. If this is not true, why are they writing it?

Totallypets.
Thanks for the lead recommendation
What you say you do (use normal leads to the walk, then tape extendables for non-recall dogs, and long lines to assess recall) is identical to what I had in my mind as what I would do (glad someone else does it, makes me feel less alone!).

I agree re the rope leads. My own dog has a flexi (tape one) and a normal lead, although he mostly goes on the flexi. He's still very spritely (bless his ancient heart!), but he's pretty much blind, deaf and isn't exactly huge. But then again, he manages (or has done) for his nearly 15 years being let off after about a 5 minute walk into the woods, and he has zero recall. He was a Battersea rescue, combined with lacking the braincells goldfish are born with (he managed 'say please' by lifting his paw when he wants something, and barking to go in/out of the door to pee, but though we tried, sit, stay, come and roll over were all lost), although he was a really good escapologist (still would be if he could see, no doubt!). But yes, tape flexi's suit him well now - he can bimble about and explore the undergrowth without losing whoever is walking him. So I approve of flexi's for that sort of reason. The string ones...urgh, who thought they were a good idea?

I was also suggested to get leads that are at least 19cm wide so that they will be strong enough for any species. Having only a smallish dog (and only a cocker spaniel before him), I'm not sure if this is reasonable, insane, or not enough - I've never had a great dane or a boxer for example to compare. I was, like with everything else, planning on getting a small selection of strengths (as well as types) so I have a couple of medium strengths, a couple of strong, one weak...and a couple of flexis, a couple normal leads, and a long line. As a starting point at least!

Good idea with the embroidered collars - do you remove their own collar, or do they wear two? I ask because I wouldn't want to remove the owner's tag, but I'm not sure how comfortable two collars might be (and you don't learn unless you ask or try - and since I've already started the topic, I'd rather ask first!).

Lastly, by headcollars, do you mean like halti's? Or something else? That is something I've never used, but like with everything, I'm happy to take on board any hints or tips, and headcollars are something I'd consider using if they are recommended!

I only use the size that I linked before - 19mm I think - which I think are suitable for most dogs up to 25/30kg. It has to be said that I don't walk any 'large' dogs currently, the biggest is a very large female lab I walk occasionally who I walk on a 19mm lead with a headcollar as she pulls like a train.

I don't remove the dogs own collars as legally they should have their owners details on them - not always the case in practice despite me making them aware if they weren't before of the law regarding dog tags.

I use Gentle Leaders normally Gentle Leader Headcollars for Sale Both the muzzle piece and the neck piece can be adjusted separately ensuring that you nearly always get a good fit.

 

We use Three Peaks equipment with our own dogs. They seem to be very heavy duty and our rottie has had the same flat collar by them for years and it isn't showing any sign of wear. Might be one to consider. Pets At Home sell them but I'm not sure if you could just source them from the internet.

 

Currently I'm using
- Clix Long lines
- Halti training leads
- 3 peaks rope leads.

I dislike using flexi's just you can't retract the lead well yourself so either have to walk towards the dog or wait for it to come back.

I like the halti leads because you can double clip them eg. to collar and harness for extra security for dogs that slip collars. And then thick rope leads for the chewers.

Mostly I just use the leads to get dogs from the house to my car and then around car parks at the beach, woods etc. Then as a safety precaution when we are out on a walk.

I tend not to use clients own leads unless they specifically ask. This is just because they might get wet, muddy, sandy, chewed, or lost and it's just easier for that to happen to my leads.

As for harnesses they can be good for certain dogs but aren't appropriate or needed for all. When I take on a new client I normally discuss with the owner what would be most suitable for their dog, or if the need transpires later on and then ask them to provide it or arrange to get them one. I've seen dogs slip harnesses just as much as collars so if I have a dog that flies at things, or pulls alot I use the halti lead to attach to both.

Also I have a supply of cheap (£1) high vis collars with transfers of my business name and mobile number on - although I don't use these to attach leads to.

 

Everything I've read on 'how-to' for professional dog walking suggests using a harness as collars can be slipped. Obviously that'd be part of the agreement, but I'd far rather use a halti (or similar) harness with a dog if harnesses encourage that individual to pull than have a dog slip their collar (and therefore lose their ID tag) while with me.

I let Kilo pull on a harness as I run with him in one, he is immensely strong if he pulls. I also use half check collars to prevent him slipping them, but he doesn't pull on his collar - when I've used a dog walker she has said that she doesn't need to use a headcollar with him (I supplied one in case it was needed). If you used a harness you would probably find that he was more difficult to walk than on a collar.

With buying my own leads - no offense meant to any dog owner (including my own family), but if I'm going to be relying on equipment I want it to be my responsibility to maintain it - that way, if a dog (heaven forbid!) snaps a lead and flees, it is my own fault (and covered by my insurance if needs be). No offense meant to any dog walker, but I select the equipment and maintain it with my dog in mind. I have gone diving a lot and use my own kit as I KNOW that it has been maintained - I feel the same about equipment for my dog. Also means I can avoid choke-leads with the "Oh, we prefer to use our own leads for safety purposes", rather than insult a customer. That is not to say I don't plan on putting the three tick boxes on the walking agreement to see if there is any particular lead that they don't want used with their dog - I know some people are extremely anti Flexi leads for example. I don't mind not using a certain type of lead - I just want to be the one checking that it hasn't rusted up/frayed/the stitching coming loose - stops me getting complacent which is always a good thing! I would not want you to be the one checking, although I would like a dog walker to have spare leads just in case!

Chances are, to start of, I'm not going to be walking many dogs at a time, and will always have single dog walks available. Obviously, as someone has said, you can't use more than two flexi leads (to be honest, I reckon I could only handle one - so only useful with individuals). Same with long lines - mostly for use in working out whether the dog can actually recall, or whether the owners just think their dog is awesome (pets are like kids sometimes - they can do no wrong!).

I'm more than happy to buy a selection of harnesses and leads (and toys, balls, blankets, etc, etc etc!). It is in my budget, and not to mention being able to embroider leads with my company name/colours. I'm all for subtle advertising.

As far as I've planned, I have no intesion of walking dogs anywhere near roads. Or livestock. Or children. Children during holidays is possible, but so far my planned routes are all off-roading - there are no dog parks (tbh, I've never even seen a dog park - they are rather mythological!).

Last thing...double ended leads. Seem interesting enough, but I'm not sure of the purpose for them? I'm assuming you don't attach them to the same dog? The photo I've looked at on TuffStuff doesn't appear to have a 'handle', and all I can see when I look at it is rope burn when the dogs slide back and forth. I may just be missing the point mind you - never even heard of/seen them before they were mentioned here! :mellow: I use a double ended lead (Dogmatic Gripper). It is fantastic - you can adjust it to various lengths or clip one end to the dog's collar and the other end to another piece of equipment for extra safety such as a headcollar or harness. If you want a handle, you simply clip the one end to the closest ring. No rope burn; it's made out of the same kind of material as horses' reins.

Oh, and last-last thing - thanks to all the people recommending brand names - I'm compiling a list for my wholesaler friend to have a look for. Your suggestions are very welcomed, and exactly what I'm looking for, thank you

I think the bottom line for me is that I use certain equipment for specific reasons for my dog as I am sure that many others do; I would be happy for an experienced dog walker to question my choices and discuss matters, but must admit that I'd be annoyed if the reason they didn't want to use my equipment was because they didn't trust my judgement in selecting and / or maintaining it.

 

I always ask my clients to supply their own leads, collars, harnesses ect as all dogs are different and I like to walk the dog in what they feel most comfort in.

Obviously I always check these are securely and comfortably fitted and are free from any damage or fraying - before proceeding with walks.

I have a clip-on ID tag, that states the dog is out with a hired dog walker and has all our details inc. mobile numbers on. We then just attach this to every dog's collar whilst in our care - whether they go off lead or not.

Although this said, some quality leads I can recommend are these:
POLICE STYLE DOUBLE ENDED TRAINING LEAD 1"/25MM | eBay

I use them for agility, obedience training and just general exercise. They are comfy to hold, you can extend the length and even clip them around your waist for when you have a few dogs to walk at one time.
I bought my first one from this very seller, nearly 3 years ago and its used numerous times daily and is still like brand new.

 

Hello,

I am new to this site so please forgive any posting errors.

The owner will provide you with the lead and collar or harness and collar they want their dog to be walked with. You would check that the collar is not loose before you walk it and yes, you would check that the lead is not frayed etc.

If you use your own leads you would have to ask the owners permission/inform the owner. If I were the owner using your service I would then just worry about YOUR leads not being up to the job. The owner would have bought a lead and collar set that was fit for the job, would have spent hours choosing it and likes their dog to be walked in it. Their lead will have a proven track record - yours would not.

Every owner has their own idea about is the perfect lead for their dog (the one they have bought), yours might fall very short of that ideal no matter what you think of their lead or how your choice might be more appropriate

You should invest in a couple of spares as an emergency precaution.

Personally, I would advise you to do more voluntary walking to build up your experience. If you are operating a professional service you should be able to match a dog to their ideal lead without even thinking twice about it, but in reality this isn't always what the owner provides. The owner's lead is what the dog you are walking is used to.

I hope this helps to clear things up, it is not in any way meant to be discouraging or disparaging. It is commendable that you are conscious of their safety and I can see why you would ask advice and where you're coming from but it is the walker rather than the leads that keep the dogs safe at the end of the day.

Also, I would not recommend harnesses for dogs unless they have a medical condition (ie collapsed trachea) or are sledge pulling dogs and are doing that job. Harness are fixed round the strongest point in the dog (hence the ability to pull a sledge). They also need sizing and fitting correctly. Badly fitted/wrong sized harnasses will cause soreness to the dog. Harnesses for small dogs as misguided as they are for big dogs.

Regards