I would echo what the others have said and would reiterate you have to be firm with your commands, even when trained if you give him a command make sure he follows thro with it. Beagles are stubborn but as long as you are firm & consistant it is possible to train them

You have to have a lot of patience when training but if you are prepared to spend the time it will come. I took Harvey to training classes when we first got him and the trainer basically said that 'you won't get a beagle to listen to you or follow commands because of his high prey drive' but we proved him wrong and I can honestly say he walks beautifully to heel and if we are somewhere secure & let him off he comes back when recalled. Training him to do most things was easy as he is so food driven he will basically do anything for a treat, so use treats to your advantage.

With regard to your other thread about neutering, we had Harvey neutered when he was 12 months old and besides the health benefits from having it done he did calm down greatly. He also hasn't tried to be as dominant as he used to be.

It isn't easy but it is rewarding and due to Harvey's 'magpie' tendancies my lounge always looks tidy:lol: You will learn never to leave anything lying around if you don't want it to be beagle napped!!

Have fun with your Beagle:thumbup:

 

Beaglemumma - its hard work but perserverance does pay off. my beagle pup is only 12 weeks old and can wee on command. she was paper trained by the breeder but as soon as i brought her home i started taking her outside as per the advice of sleddog and the other forum members on here. the 1st week was a nightmare - out every 20 mins and up 3 times during the night but it has paid off. i still take honey out every half hour when she is awake during the day but she goes from around 10pm every night until 6am now and is dry every night. she has been crate trained and sometimes when i have to put her in during the day she crys and whines a bit but if i ignore her for 5 or 10 mins she drops off to sleep. if you give in and let your beagle out when he howls he will catch on quickly - you really should try to sit it out for a bit n see what happens. i give honey a puppy kong with cream cheese in it or a crunchy stick in her crate and she will happily chew away for a bit. when im out walking i stop when she pulls - she is still very young but is getting the message already although i am going to get her a premier easy walk harness. please dont be fooled by the big hound eyes as beagles are notoriously stubborn and very intelligent - treat him like a spoilt child and be consistently firm and he will learn. good luck.

 

It isn't easy but it is rewarding and due to Harvey's 'magpie' tendancies my lounge always looks tidy:lol: You will learn never to leave anything lying around if you don't want it to be beagle napped!!

Have fun with your Beagle:thumbup:

I can totally relate with the 'magpie' tendancies, Basil has these too. He'll swipe anything he can from the coffee table or dining table. In particular pens and notepads seem to go missing. Earlier today I came into the living room to find Basil under the dining table eating a packet of chewits that he had 'found' on the computer desk. You know he knows it's wrong because he hides under the table with his loot. Cheeky bugger!

 

Beaglemumma - its hard work but perserverance does pay off. my beagle pup is only 12 weeks old and can wee on command. she was paper trained by the breeder but as soon as i brought her home i started taking her outside as per the advice of sleddog and the other forum members on here. the 1st week was a nightmare - out every 20 mins and up 3 times during the night but it has paid off. i still take honey out every half hour when she is awake during the day but she goes from around 10pm every night until 6am now and is dry every night. she has been crate trained and sometimes when i have to put her in during the day she crys and whines a bit but if i ignore her for 5 or 10 mins she drops off to sleep. if you give in and let your beagle out when he howls he will catch on quickly - you really should try to sit it out for a bit n see what happens. i give honey a puppy kong with cream cheese in it or a crunchy stick in her crate and she will happily chew away for a bit. when im out walking i stop when she pulls - she is still very young but is getting the message already although i am going to get her a premier easy walk harness. please dont be fooled by the big hound eyes as beagles are notoriously stubborn and very intelligent - treat him like a spoilt child and be consistently firm and he will learn. good luck.

Thanks for your advice Tiny. I am impressed that you have done so well training your beagle at such a young age and somewhat embarrassed that we are so behind. I wish i had known about this forum earlier on. Ho hum! Saying that tho - after just one day of training using suggestions from very helpful people on here, we have made progress!! I am feeling encouraged and tomorrow we start puppy school so it can only get better. (I hope)

Any further advice you have, don't be shy

 

When I go out for a walk with mine.. the first thing I do when I get back is go straight to the back door and let them out for a few mins.. Bobby usually has a mega wee.. and so do the girls.. even though they have had a couple on a walk.. I reckon if I didn't put them out I would then have to wear wellies to get through the pee in my kitchen..

And I would suggest like other go to puppy class..

 

With the magpie tendencies, as much as a pain as it is it is best to puppy proof as much as you can by removing as much as you can so its not a temptation to steal things, Also they do cotton on that nicking stuff is a way of getting attention and it becomes a game and a learned behaviour you dont want. Teaching the leave command is always good. Ive done this by teaching a reliable sit and wait first, waiting until the wait is for a good while before you give the treat. Next step is to put the treat on the floor,cover it with your hand, tell him to wait again, then still with the treaat covered, say leave repeat the leave, then uncover it and tell him to take it. You should be able to build it up, eventually where, you can do sit wait, leave, uncover it wait, step back and then the take it. That is something you can try later as each stage has got to be done individually building it up and not going on to the next step until each is realiable.

Another thing you can teach later is the Drop command.Ive always taught mine through play. If you use a toy or ball he likes, but is not a great favourite, you have more chance of getting him to give it up. I throw the toy or ball. Try to get him to bring it to me by holding out a really smelly tasty treat (remember beagles in particular use there noses) if the comes with the toy/ball offer the treat close to him nose, if and as he drops it, say drop, repeat drop, then give the treat with lots of praise, then you can repeat the whole thing again. He should learn that giving up things can be rewarding.

I have found with mine that a couple of 10/15 minute training sessions a day mixed with a bit of play really helps. It also seems to tire them out as they are using energy and their brains, but at the same time is enough to train but not too long for them to get bored. Its good you are going to training, for socialisation plus you will be constantly learning new things. Which you can then add and practice to your training sessions at home.

 

I have found with mine that a couple of 10/15 minute training sessions a day mixed with a bit of play really helps. It also seems to tire them out as they are using energy and their brains, but at the same time is enough to train but not too long for them to get bored. Its good you are going to training, for socialisation plus you will be constantly learning new things. Which you can then add and practice to your training sessions at home.

Completely agree,every night around 5pm,we have a play session,with the ball launcher,outdoors,and this is purely to exercise Alfs body and mind,we do the drop command and now when he pinches something,instead of a scene from benny hill,I say drop,he drops and then gets his treat!So much easier,but again 6 months ago i would never have believed that he would be that calm and responsiveThis also settles him for the night and we have a clam relaxed dog of an evening:thumbup:

 

Agree with getting rid of the puppy pads,you need to stay outside with him when you want him to wee,wait until he does and then make a fuss like never beforeand then say wee and treat him,if he starts to have an accident indoors,get him outside as quick as possible and then when he goes treat again.It will eventually click if he think there is food at the end of it.If he does have an accident in the house,use a solution of persil soap powder and water this should help stop him,remarking.
Regarding the walking to heel,we used a halti and Alf hated it,spent most of his walks trying to get it off his face and eventually learned to back out of it and slip it off(who said Beagles were stupid?)we use a slip lead,it costs a fiver and we walk Alf to the park on it,it takes 10 mins there so we do a strict heel walk and he is perfect now,I started off by holding it quite tight so that he was right next to me,but he has got it sorted it and walks on a loose lead.He knows the command heel and trots along next to me looking at my treat pocket with those gorgeous eyes.

So far after just 2 days of toilet training, Basil has been amazing!! He has been going outside as if he's been doing it all his life and has not once tried to go in the house where his puppy pad was (she says with crossed fingers) I left the backdoor ajar earlier and he even went out of his own accord and had a wee (i spied on him from the window)

With regards to the dog walking we are currently using a collar and an extendable lead and i don't think it's very good to train him with. Do you suggest we take his collar off for the time being and get a slip lead then?

 

Another thing you can teach later is the Drop command.Ive always taught mine through play. If you use a toy or ball he likes, but is not a great favourite, you have more chance of getting him to give it up. I throw the toy or ball. Try to get him to bring it to me by holding out a really smelly tasty treat (remember beagles in particular use there noses) if the comes with the toy/ball offer the treat close to him nose, if and as he drops it, say drop, repeat drop, then give the treat with lots of praise, then you can repeat the whole thing again. He should learn that giving up things can be rewarding.

I have found with mine that a couple of 10/15 minute training sessions a day mixed with a bit of play really helps. It also seems to tire them out as they are using energy and their brains, but at the same time is enough to train but not too long for them to get bored. Its good you are going to training, for socialisation plus you will be constantly learning new things. Which you can then add and practice to your training sessions at home.

Are there any good educational dog toys i should get? I have taken your suggestion re the kong and am going to get him one but just wondered if there's anything inparticular I should buy to play with him with and to use as a teaching aid. I would hate to think that he was being understimulated so want to get some things to keep his brain active.

As always, any suggestions welcome

 

Are there any good educational dog toys i should get? I have taken your suggestion re the kong and am going to get him one but just wondered if there's anything inparticular I should buy to play with him with and to use as a teaching aid. I would hate to think that he was being understimulated so want to get some things to keep his brain active.

As always, any suggestions welcome

I find with my youngest a good old fashioned tennis ball works wonders. The treatball I mentioned earlier is good, because it keeps interest as it releases a treat here and there. So that is good for them to amuse thereselves. My youngest also likes her kong wubba (Think you can get several sizes) its bascically like the hollow kong you stuff underneath, with a squeaker in it and covered in thick canvas fabric, It also has thick canvas tails like an octopus,for want of a better description. Good for throwing, a game of tug, or just for them to mouth and chew. To get their prey drive going, there is skeneeze, basically fake fur, skinned squirrels with tails (sorry about the gory description) those I think have a squeaker too. Quite useful to distract dogs with prey drive from the real thing. Seen them used in training for recall, but I havent used them on my lot as would probably dismantle them in no time.
There are other puzzle toys on the market that they have to use there brain to get treats out of, maybe another thing you could use when you need him to amuse himself. Chewing is a great destresser and wind down for dogs, so the other thing I would add is a selection of chews. Dood for when you want a bit of P&Q and might help with his magpie habits too.

 

So far after just 2 days of toilet training, Basil has been amazing!! He has been going outside as if he's been doing it all his life and has not once tried to go in the house where his puppy pad was (she says with crossed fingers) I left the backdoor ajar earlier and he even went out of his own accord and had a wee (i spied on him from the window)

With regards to the dog walking we are currently using a collar and an extendable lead and i don't think it's very good to train him with. Do you suggest we take his collar off for the time being and get a slip lead then?

Or a collar and normal lead. I also have a headcollar (Dogmatic) for the occasions when I do not have time to work on loose lead training so that Kilo never learns to pull on a normal flat collar. I do loose lead training at least twice per day and try to do it wherever we go, however he comes to work so if I need to get to a meeting etc I don't always have the time everywhere we travel.

The way I do it is on normal walks, collar and lead. On walks where there is a little time pressure I put on the Dogmatic and attach one end of my training lead to Kilo's normal collar and one end to the headcollar. I walk him using his normal collar by keeping the end attached to the headcollar slack...if he pulls I then take control of his head...once the lead is loose again, I slack off the headcollar end and so on.

I was a little despairing only a few weeks ago about the pulling, but about a fortnight or so ago something just clicked and Kilo just understood. He is now really, really good at walking with a loose lead, the headcollar has only been on once last week

 

I find with my youngest a good old fashioned tennis ball works wonders. The treatball I mentioned earlier is good, because it keeps interest as it releases a treat here and there. So that is good for them to amuse thereselves. My youngest also likes her kong wubba (Think you can get several sizes) its bascically like the hollow kong you stuff underneath, with a squeaker in it and covered in thick canvas fabric, It also has thick canvas tails like an octopus,for want of a better description. Good for throwing, a game of tug, or just for them to mouth and chew. To get their prey drive going, there is skeneeze, basically fake fur, skinned squirrels with tails (sorry about the gory description) those I think have a squeaker too. Quite useful to distract dogs with prey drive from the real thing. Seen them used in training for recall, but I havent used them on my lot as would probably dismantle them in no time.
There are other puzzle toys on the market that they have to use there brain to get treats out of, maybe another thing you could use when you need him to amuse himself. Chewing is a great destresser and wind down for dogs, so the other thing I would add is a selection of chews. Dood for when you want a bit of P&Q and might help with his magpie habits too.

Thanks Sled Dog. I have just ordered a treat ball online and my partner is off to get a Kong after work so i'm looking forward to watching Basil playing with them. Will let you know how we get on with them.

With regards to chews, we already buy him dentastix and raw hide bones and he absolutely loves them to death. He will hapilly sit for an hour or more chewing on a bone - much to the relief of me and my finace

 

Thanks Sled Dog. I have just ordered a treat ball online and my partner is off to get a Kong after work so i'm looking forward to watching Basil playing with them. Will let you know how we get on with them.

With regards to chews, we already buy him dentastix and raw hide bones and he absolutely loves them to death. He will hapilly sit for an hour or more chewing on a bone - much to the relief of me and my finace

I spend a fortune on chews especially having 3 dogs, but god its worth every penny!!

 

Basil and I are off to puppy school shortly - Wish us luck!!

I will let you know how we get on.

Let's hope he's not the oldest and worst behaved puppy there!!

 

Remember, whatever he does they have seen it all before

 

Beagles!!!!!! My friend had them for years. I've seen one at dog club develop over the last year, and someone's suggestion about perserverence is so right (so don't feel too deflated). They're a bit of a breed on their own. Seemingly miles behind other breeds for months in training, she just came into her own around 9 months. Some humans have a learning style like that you know? Someone can tell me something, and what they've said goes up in the air, then sometimes months later, it comes back down and docks in my brain. The beagle at dog club was very difficult to train. I think part of it is to do with their nose being so powerful, scents are an over-riding attraction, and when they're young, it's hard to tame this developing instinct. I know it's hard with family life and jobs and all, but setting your mobile phone to go off every hour whilst your dog sleeps next to you in a crate, lift him out, go straight outside, saying nothing, put him down, say "go be good" and praise immediately he does a wee, lift him up, go straight to bed, and do it all again for a week or so (gradually extending the time) might hopefully resolve your problem? I know I might sound like a bit of an idiot, but ideally, people should book a week or two off work to coincide with picking a new pup up. I don't think training pads are a good idea myself, because you're just letting dogs think it's OK to do it indoors, though I know in some situations (flats, etc.) this has to be the case. Your goal should be to never let your dog do it indoors. It's amazing how quick they learn if you make sure this doesn't happen, at least 80% of the time in the beginning, and if they do ...boring as it sounds, just pick them up, say nothing, and take them outside.

 

oh its all so familiar!!! i was just like you Beaglemuma, thought how much harder can a beagle be (last dog my folks had when i lived at home was beagle springer cross)..... Lexie is now 11mths and she has tried our patience beyond belief, but what we have learned and its been said by others on here-dont let her win, at anything! whether its a battle of wills or a game of tug! we got her at 8weeks and she was spayed at 6mths. we went to dog classes for weeks that were of no benefit then found KC good citizen one and she completed the puppy foundation in December and is starting the Bronze tomorrow with same trainer, which i find great.
luckily toilet training her was easy, no paper just watched her like a hawk and brought her outside and praise praise praise, now working on peeing on command. her walking on a lead is pretty good if i keep her focused on me, using treats in my left hand at thigh level and saying "close". i use a halti(although i think the canny collar is better from what iv heard) and a regular lead, except on the beach/forest she is on a flexi as i dont trust her recall yet. she is a divil for stealing things and lifting things when out walking so the "leave it" command is in constant use and she understands it.
everyday is still a schoolday for us and her. we dont let her through a doorway without sitting, she doesnt get anythng without a sit and a please. she goes into her outside run after a walk to chill out as i found she would be all wound up with adrenaline and she needed the quiet time, she loves her run anyway as she treats it like her house (doesnt toilet in it eventhough its BIG). with visitors the way we do it at the mo is she is in her crate to get used to voices and level of disturbance (and to keep her away from plate of biscuits!!) and then she is allowed out on a house line so that she can potter about and i can keep her under control without having to grab her, we are still working on her relationship with my mother in law as that caused biggest problem with visitors as she is quite jumpy and overbearing-not good if visitor isnt a dog person but time patience and calmness is getting there.
so just to let you know you are not alone, it takes an incredible amount of time and patience but i can see we are FINALLY getting somewhere with lexie and you will too with Basil, we are hoping that she will mature into the loving family dog that we grew up with ourselves and then all the worry and upset and stress will be worth it!

 

Hello all,
A little question from a newbie! Our beagle is now 13 weeks and I am really struggling with toileting. I think we made our first mistake by purchasing puppy pads but she does use them well. She won't wee outside but does on most occassions poo outside. It is difficult to move her puppy pad closer to the back door as we are keeping her in the dining room which leads into the conservatory where the cat sleeps. We have tried taking a wet pad outside and she has wee'd on it once or twice but I really feel frustrated by it all. The worst thing is that she wee's in her bed! I thought dogs didn't wee where they sleep - yeah right! I have washed it and disenfected it to get rid of the smell but she continues to do it. HELP!
P.S. Thanks for all the other advice on this thread and sorry OP for hijacking your thread. x

 

To the OP - well done for sorting out a training class. Getting face to face advice from a trainer and other puppy owners is so fantastic you'll wonder why you hadn't gone sooner

Its really refreshing to read an owner who says 'ok - i didn't realise how hard it'd be, here's what I'm going to do about it...' rather than depressing posts with defeatist attitudes saying if they don't improve in a week they'll be rehomed!

I've asked a lot of questions on here whilst raising my Beagle, and i've always got some really practical good advice. So keep posting and we'll keep trying to help!!


To put my 2 cents in:

* I'd get rid of the puppy pads altogether and start again. If you see the signs (sniffing in a circle...) take the pup out for 3 minutes. Say your toilet word repeatedly and excitingly during a wee and praise them like mad for their success, but if nothing happens after a few minutes go back inside. Watch them like a hawk!! If they start to wee inside disrupt it - even if you have to pick them up, and try to get them outside. Say the toilet word and reward if they finish toileting outside. A half success is better than none. Ignore all mistakes. Clean with a special spray to get rid of the marker to your dog - from a pet store or use Bio washing powder mixed with water.

* Walking to heel - my puppy class tried everything with Charlie!! In the end I had to lead him along with a treat - keeping his eyes on me and the treat whilst slowly moving forward. Every so often we stopped, he got the treat to eat and I got another out. Its really tough to keep their noses up off the floor!!

* Beagles are hard and the trick is to be as stubborn as they are, be patient, and never let a good deed go untreated

* Your Beagle may be coming up to the teenager age - I've found plenty of exercise, lots of chew toys (Kongs, Nylabones, Rawhide), keeping an even temper, and lots of little training sessions keeps Charlie out of trouble - mostly!

Maybe look into a book that will take you through the basics step-by-step. I used Gwen Bailey 'A Perfect Puppy' who shows how to teach sit for example in easy steps with pictures...or perhaps someone can recommend another book?