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Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Those look good to me :)
My rule is that the nails should be well off the ground/floor when standing normally. Some say no 'ticking' when walking on hard floors but other than the great danes, I've never gotten a dog to not tick. Every once in a while Penny doesn't tick but I think that's more to do with how prancy she's moving or not :D
 

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This thread is great-Dobby had her claws clipped a couple of times by the vet (no drama) and then they said she didn't need it when we went again. But she's 5 now and they seem to be growing quicker even though we're walking the same as before. And the problem is she's completely neurotic about anyone trying to clip her claws. I've always made it a point to touch her paws since she was a puppy and she's fine but as soon as she sees me with something in my hand (clippers or dremmel) she flips out 馃槕 she's even too stressed to take food. Think I'm going to have to take her to the groomers but I know that'll be stressful for her too 馃槙
ETA am off to have a look at the link at the beginning of the thread馃檪
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Definitely get Dobby to the groomers, you'd be surprised at hoe well dogs do sometimes just with someone they have no or minimal history with.
In the meantime you can definitely work on getting her desensitized to a dremel or clippers, whichever you choose. Personally I'd go with the dremel.
 

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We have a dremel Sox honestly you can do what you like with him. He鈥檚 perfectly happy having his nails done with this. However they do seem to grow fast is this an old boy thing ? Loki isn鈥檛 hugely keen I might see if I can find a groomer. The last one is to far away now but did his nails with ease.
 

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The Schnauzer boys get unceremoniously dumped on a park bench or wall to have their nails clipped.馃槖 Our trainer clips them about every 3 weeks during training. I'm lucky with the pair of them because their breeder's wife trained them from being babies to stand still on a table, which is perfect for when they go to the groomers or the vets.
 

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Thanks O2.0. The clicking thing confuses me because sometimes I still here clicking but the nails don鈥檛 seem to be on the floor, is it just the way they move that causes them to hit it?

For anyone struggling I鈥檇 thoroughly recommend Susan Garrets perfect pawdicure online course or Deb Jones Cooperative care book, they worked for me. Bramble was particularly fussy with her feet being handled but she鈥檚 fine with them being shaved now too
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
However they do seem to grow fast is this an old boy thing ?
It seems to be yeah... Bates nails got harder the older he got, so did the danes. Add in that older dogs are probably moving around less so wearing down less and they do seem to grow really fast.
 

Grand Empress of the Universe
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I find if they are wet (say after a bath or running in a wet field) they are easier to clip because they aren't so hard. Managed all of Bronte's today with my brother on feeding duty. We try as much co-operative care type stuff as possible BUT if he's slightly pulling the foot away I just keep hold and continue. Only if they really object do I stop and give them a moment to regroup. I find 30 secs of a shake off and a potter and they are back ready to continue. It's not the most fun activity but it's not painful and usually they can deal with it as long as they know they can leave if they want and serious objections are listened to.
Doing Nooka is very much like this. If she sees me pick up the clippers she's excited and wants to be involved, but pulls her feet away a lot (she has itchy sore paws so I can understand her not liking it more than the others). So it's very stop-starty but because we have an understanding we can get through it with minimal fuss and she won't leave the situation just doesn't much like it!
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I'm the same with Penny, I'd love to take the time to do cooperative care and her lying quietly while I do her nails but, it's just easier and faster to have someone hold her and feed her while I knock them out.
As soon as she sees me get the grinder and turn it on she comes running so it's not like she's traumatized by any of it, she's just a total wiggle worm and isn't the best about being still.
I don't mind restraining her if she's happily taking food and comes running knowing full well what's about to happen.
If she's anything like previous dogs, she should gradually get more and more chill about it.
 

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Good thread.
Nail grinders are the best invention !
I'm in a good routine of doing Whisp's nails every Sunday, she tolerates it with a constant supply of liver cake and I stop if she curls her lip or growls and try again later.
The only thing is her quicks are long even though I've been working to recede them for what feels like a year with tiny or no success. So her claws still touch the ground even when I've just done them. I regularly see a pinprick of blood when I accidentally hit the quick, thankfully she doesn't seem to notice.
For some reason she's extra touchy with her dewclaws so I got the vets help last time.
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Do you do the alternate cut line?
Sighthounds have hare feet (as opposed to cat feet) which make it harder to get the nail off the ground but as bad as sighthounds are about breaking toes, it's definitely worth it!
 

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Do you do the alternate cut line?
Sighthounds have hare feet (as opposed to cat feet) which make it harder to get the nail off the ground but as bad as sighthounds are about breaking toes, it's definitely worth it!
No I should try to shape the nails more really, you don't get much time as she gets annoyed quickly do I just tend to work on getting the length sown.
Something to strive for :)
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
No I should try to shape the nails more really, you don't get much time as she gets annoyed quickly do I just tend to work on getting the length sown.
Something to strive for :)
Since you have the length down for the most part, might want to start working on getting her less annoyed with the whole procedure. Maybe some reps of touch the nail and treat, touch nail, treat. Try some other ideas in the blog in the first post.
You won't be doing anything really to her nails, just getting her happier about having them handled.
 

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Since you have the length down for the most part, might want to start working on getting her less annoyed with the whole procedure. Maybe some reps of touch the nail and treat, touch nail, treat. Try some other ideas in the blog in the first post.
You won't be doing anything really to her nails, just getting her happier about having them handled.
Yeah I've done alot of work desensitising her and she's absolutely fine with me handling her paws and claws it's just that she gets annoyed when I spend too long with the grinder on her claws. I always use treats.

Eta- an interesting paw fact about Whisp is she has webbed toes :)
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
she gets annoyed when I spend too long with the grinder on her claws.
Oh if you're using a grinder, this is important!
The grinder gets HOT, as in start a fire with wood hot because of the friction. Especially if you're using a sanding attachment instead of a diamond head attachment.
Big rule is to only hold the grinder on the nail for a few seconds at a time. Touch, lift, touch, lift, touch, lift. Lift as in take the grinder off the nail.
If you're as close to the quick that you can get a pinprick of blood at times, she will definitely feel the heat and she's very likely reacting to that.
 

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Oh if you're using a grinder, this is important!
The grinder gets HOT, as in start a fire with wood hot because of the friction. Especially if you're using a sanding attachment instead of a diamond head attachment.
Big rule is to only hold the grinder on the nail for a few seconds at a time. Touch, lift, touch, lift, touch, lift. Lift as in take the grinder off the nail.
If you're as close to the quick that you can get a pinprick of blood at times, she will definitely feel the heat and she's very likely reacting to that.
Crumbs! didn't even think of that !!
 

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Aaaa, haven't really posted since the forum software update, I hope this doesn't go wrong.

For the first time ever I have a second person who is eager to be an active part in co-op care dog training. Yesterday Cad did his nails on the scratchboard and then afterwards, together, trimmed his hobbit feet (the long wire hairs on either side of the nail beds that hide nail length, and the floofy hairs underneath that reduce traction on smooth surfaces). I did the snipping, with spare two hands doing the food end. We worked out what counted as a steady stream of treats first, then worked out a slow ROR, and then worked out what was the fastest speed available. Plus a bit of reward placement mechanics to keep Cad's head up and out of my way, without my head ending up in the way. And then I matched the min and max of what I was doing to the available speeds, occasionally saying things like "steady speed now" or "as fast as you can for a bit".

And omfg it was so so so much easier and less stressful for Cad than doing it on my own. Like, I always knew that two people is better for things like that, and I try and advise others to wherever possible, but I've never had someone available that sensitive Cad is comfortable enough around. It's opening up SO MANY POSSIBILITIES.

We're going to aim to do a 2-person Cad foot thing once a week (as that works with our schedules) and hopefully be able to make some decent progress on actual nail clipping that way too. Does anyone have any suggested setups for like, human placement/ logistical stuff? That was the hardest to make decisions on in the moment.

Those look good to me :)
My rule is that the nails should be well off the ground/floor when standing normally. Some say no 'ticking' when walking on hard floors but other than the great danes, I've never gotten a dog to not tick. Every once in a while Penny doesn't tick but I think that's more to do with how prancy she's moving or not :D
Yeah, that's about the same for me too. I am fairly strongly against aiming for 'no ticking' because it depends substantially on the dog's overall conformation, not just nail length.
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Woo hoo for Cad having another human helper! That really does make a difference!
I have OH hold Penny, he gives her belly rubs and I reward after one or two taps with the grinder. She lets me know if my ROR falls too low :rolleyes:
 

Grand Empress of the Universe
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Aaaa, haven't really posted since the forum software update, I hope this doesn't go wrong.

For the first time ever I have a second person who is eager to be an active part in co-op care dog training. Yesterday Cad did his nails on the scratchboard and then afterwards, together, trimmed his hobbit feet (the long wire hairs on either side of the nail beds that hide nail length, and the floofy hairs underneath that reduce traction on smooth surfaces). I did the snipping, with spare two hands doing the food end. We worked out what counted as a steady stream of treats first, then worked out a slow ROR, and then worked out what was the fastest speed available. Plus a bit of reward placement mechanics to keep Cad's head up and out of my way, without my head ending up in the way. And then I matched the min and max of what I was doing to the available speeds, occasionally saying things like "steady speed now" or "as fast as you can for a bit".

And omfg it was so so so much easier and less stressful for Cad than doing it on my own. Like, I always knew that two people is better for things like that, and I try and advise others to wherever possible, but I've never had someone available that sensitive Cad is comfortable enough around. It's opening up SO MANY POSSIBILITIES.

We're going to aim to do a 2-person Cad foot thing once a week (as that works with our schedules) and hopefully be able to make some decent progress on actual nail clipping that way too. Does anyone have any suggested setups for like, human placement/ logistical stuff? That was the hardest to make decisions on in the moment.
Back feet is easier because you have one person at the front end feeding and one at the back nailing. For the front I just have the feeder on the other side to the foot you're doing. That's about as complicated as we get lol.


Yeah, that's about the same for me too. I am fairly strongly against aiming for 'no ticking' because it depends substantially on the dog's overall conformation, not just nail length.
I also think there's a bit of ticking as the dog trots across a wooden floor, and TICKING where the nails are clearly clacking on the floor and need a good bit off them!
 

Swamprat
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Just did a quick touch up on Penny's nails. This is how short they are and other than the hag nail on the side, I won't go shorter than this. She has plenty of room to use all of her individual paw pads for proprioception and full range of movement in her toes, but she also still has enough nail to use for traction if she needs it.
Even this short, she still ticks on the floor.

Brown Dog Dog breed Carnivore Liver

Brown Shoe Dog Wood Carnivore
 
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