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Platy problem

Discussion in 'Fish Keeping Chat' started by Shaz23, Sep 16, 2020 at 11:47 AM.

  1. Shaz23

    Shaz23 PetForums Newbie

    Likes Received:
    Hi everyone my platy is always still in water it has lost weight and just flicking it's back fin which is closed. Can anyone advise what is wrong with it please?
  2. LinznMilly

    LinznMilly Moderator
    Staff Member

    Jun 24, 2011
    Likes Received:
    Hi. Welcome to the forum.

    Before we can help, could you provide more info, please? Could you answer as many of these questions as possible?

    1) How big is the tank? (in litres, gallons, or physical dimensions length x width x height)
    We ask about tank size because the smaller the tank, the quicker things can go wrong. Knowing tank size or volume can also help us work out medication dosage, if necessary.

    2) How long has it been set up? Could you tell us the make and model of the filter?
    This is in two parts;
    A) Age of the set-up gives us a vague indication of how likely the tank is to be fully cycled. For example, if you've had the tank for 2 weeks and got fish a day after the tank, we know you're 2 weeks into a fish-in-tank cycle. Plus, the newer the tank, the more likely it is that it's a causative factor in the problems you're experiencing.
    B) Knowing the make and model of the filter can help us work out if it's appropriate for your tank and stocking.

    3) Did you cycle it before you added the fish? (Cycling involves adding a source of ammonia to the tank and testing daily until ammonia and nitrite return to 0ppm and you have a nitrate reading. This process takes weeks - not days. You can find a link with more information on cycling here).
    This is related to Q2.

    4) Do you have any test results for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, (in ppm or mg/l - "water parameters fine" doesn't tell us anything) pH, GH and KH? Also, details of the test kit you're using will be beneficial, too.
    Another question that has multiple parts.
    A). Water quality problems (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) are the single biggest causes of illness and death in the hobby. "Fine" is subjective, we need the actual results.
    B). PH, GH and KH, collectively known as water chemistry, affect the toxicity of any water quality issues. Plus, fish kept outside of the parameters they've evolved for are more susceptible to problems
    C). Dip strip tests are usually less reliable than the liquid tests, and you usually have to buy a separate kit for ammonia (which makes absolutely no sense to me, but then I don't work for a test kit manufacturer), so if, for example, your fish are showing all the signs of nitrite poisoning, but the kit says it's 0mg/l, we'll take that into account but advice you do a 50% water change anyway. :D

    5) Could you give us a full list of tank inhabitants, including species and numbers?
    It's important to know then full stocking of the tank for a number of reasons;
    A). To rule in or out the possibility of overstocking
    B). To ensure that any treatment we advise is safe for all species - for example, there's no point in advising a copper based treatment if you have inverts or sensitive fish in the tank, because it'll kill them.
    C). To rule in or out any compatibility issues.

    6) When was the last time you did a water change? How much, and did you use dechloronator?
    The day-to-day running of the tank doesn't change much, which makes water changes the most common variable in the hobby. It's the one part where we can screw up - forgetting the dechlorinator is just one part. Also forgetting to plug the filter back in, like I did, 5 weeks ago :Bag

    7) When was the last time you added anything new to the tank - fish, inverts, decor Did you quarantine them? If so, how long for? You can find more information on quarantine here

    Adding new fish (or any inverts or decor that was in a tank with fish) can come home sick. Fish shops and suppliers often keep diseases under control by using UV sterilisers, which can mean the fish have no immune system to speak of, which means as soon as they come off UV - like your home aquarium, for example, they have no defences against any and all diseases out there. Plus, any immunity they have gained is put to the test with the stress and shock of transport.

    If you put them straight into your main tank, any diseases they come with can quickly lead to a tank-wide problem.

    8) Could you post pics? Mainly of the fish in question, but also of the tank. Sometimes a member might spot something that you may have overlooked.

    9) Anything else you think we need to know? The emergency, the history, etc.

    I know there are a lot of questions to answer and feel like the Spanish Inquisition, or making you feel like you're jumping through hoops in order to get the advice you need - I promise that's not what we're doing - but the more information you can provide, the more we can help. :)
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