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I don't have a springer, I have BCs but also teach a good citizens class so hopefully some of this will help :)

Firstly, I'd suggest a crate for the car, and specifically a hamster basket if its in budget as it will allow you to put the lead on before opening the crate so you don't need to leave a lead on him (sounds like he would chew it!?) and he can't barge out and leg it - the seatbelts are never a particularly safe option, especially for chewers. If he isn't happy being in a crate (or just in the car) then I'd suggest putting him in it while parked with something yummy (raw bone if he's not possessive, or a kong) for a few minutes until settled, then building it up bit by bit. Once he's happy being stationary, you then go for a short drive, get him out for a walk (the reward) and again build it up. I would also be tempted with a crate for the house if you don't use it, similar to above to build him up to it but instead of driving you shut the door and increase the time. The bonus with a house crate is you can chuck a handful of sweeties in it, or a kong, or a bone from time to time as a surprise and it gives him a safe area to calm down in. All of mine are happy to be crated but for 99% of the time the doors are open and they take themselves off as and when they want some peace (I also personally never get them out of a crate if they chose to go in unless I have to, so they feel its a place they can go to be left alone)

For his stealing.. With my guys, I have always operated a trade system. I have a pot on top of the freezer of various high value yummy treats, and if they steal something, I go straight to the pot and call "trade". They only get a sweetie when they drop it. As long as whatever you offer is a higher value then what they have, they soon learn - "tuna/sardine fudge" (see end!) is especially high value and works well. The bonus with this is its a portable system (just chuck a handful in your pocket for a walk) and touch wood none of them has ever seen the need to pick up dead things etc on a walk

For recall..
Go back to puppy recall. In the garden, have on a house line (long thin lead). stand straight, hands out and call him Bramble COME in a happy but firm voice, bringing your hands in to your belly to guide him (if you don't know what I mean, say and I'll find a diagram or something :) )- if he doesn't start to move instantly, then use the lead to reel him in as you take a couple of steps back. As soon as he is at your feet, hand on his collar and give a treat and lots of praise, then release him with a release command - I use OK. IMO the release command is just as important as anything else, as it lets him know when he has to stop doing something, not when he feels like it. The treats you use here also have to be REALLY high value as you need to work to be more interesting then whatever smells or bushes he has to tempt him - if he's interested in games of tug or something, varying it with that works too. I suggest holding his collar before the treat/release as it means on a walk he will be used to having it done and won't do what a lot of smart cookies do and come with a lovely recall, then bomb it off before you get the lead on!! Its also important when you do have a lovely recall to practice it where he's recalled, the lead goes on, you walk for a bit then you let him off again so he never refuses to come back as he thinks its game over/home time.

When he is doing the recall on lead every time without you having to reel him in, start to do it "offlead" - drop the lead and continue the hands as above but if he ignores you, pick it up and reel him back in.

When he is coming back in the garden with the lead dropped every time, I would then and only then start to work on it outside and always on lead - initially in front of your house or some other boring place, and when he's doing it every time, then slowly building up to more exciting places, you probably want to look at at least 3 places before the park. You ALWAYS want to set him up to do well, so there is no point zooming up the steps or letting him off lead until he's competent on lead as it will only put you back to square one.

For his pulling.. Again, I would start this in the garden at home. Start with teaching him a watch me to focus his attention on you, then have him walking next to you. I start on lead and have the lead in two hands - left hand on my left leg with lead running through it, and then the remainder of the lead in my right hand, usually in a fist at the gap in my bra. I use the hand on the leg to keep them close - you can lift it away from your leg to give him some slack, but put it back to bring the lead tighter if he starts to pull. I start by putting them in a sit next to me, give the watch me then walk on lead command (I use with me for by my side not pulling, and close for obedience style) and then have my hand on my lead and leg with a stinky, yummy treat in it.. the dog should hopefully sniff it, then I walk forward, giving the command I want to use - I aim for a couple of steps to start with, then they get the treat. (This is really hard to explain rather then show!! please let me know if it makes no sense!!). Because you have the lead on your leg, it should mean he isn't able to surge forward pulling, and as long as the treat you have is yummy enough, he shouldn't want to. Once again you want to set him up to do well, so it really is a case of baby steps!! If he does start to surge forward, do an about turn with your hand flat to your leg and go off in the opposite direction. Once again, release him each time with your release command so he knows when you are done. To start with there is no way you can successfully walk him on lead without having to give him a lot more slack, so imo the release word becomes essential so he knows its not acceptable to do until you say OK. In an ideal world, every walk would be on lead with no pulling but until you have a recall you can't let him off lead, and forcing him to not pull for an entire walk long enough to tire him out is just not going to be easily achievable for you or him. I don't normally like flexi leads, but it may be a compromise you can look at while you work on his manners at home -please get the tape style if you do! (A flexi will also mean you can start to work on his recall as its possible to lock it into a long line and reel him back if necessary)

I think doing a lot more brain work like the above is going to settle him down much quicker then walking for miles, so hopefully with the above you will start to see some changes pretty quickly. I wouldn't be doing more then 5 minutes per exercise, and no more then one exercise each time to start with, and then even in total probably no more then 15mins :)

Hope that helps, please let me know if none of that makes sense :)
Carla

Tuna/Sardine Fudge
Tuna Fudge Training Dog Treats Recipe - Food.com - 120199
to make it sardine, I use 2 tins of sardine in tomato sauce.. either is stupidly effective and as the link says, you can freeze it :D It does STINK though so be warned!!!!!!
 

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Also, just in case that epic post wasn't enough!! I would suggest teaching him an instant down. Then if he does think about bombing off or decides to ignore your recall, you have the down to fall back on :)

The easiest way for an instant down is to get him a little bit excited in front of you (ideally bouncing!) , then use the initial down hand signal you taught and a fairly stern "down" - to start with you might have to go down to the floor with him, once he's down, wait, give the treat then his release word.
Once you have him slamming into a really fast down, do it when he's a bit further away, and then when he's pottering round the garden etc. Always make sure he doesn't get up without the release word, and try to avoid his name - names are usually to call them over, and for an instant down you want him to drop on the spot, not turn or start to come to you. You can turn it into a game really easily if he'll play with a ball as you can drop him, go over, release then throw his ball, and when he's really good, throw the ball, drop him, release him and let him get it :)
You want to keep this fun, but also try to keep your down strong enough to show you really mean it - if you do ever end up needing to use it, chances are it will be a booming DOWN in a voice that just dares him to disobey so he needs to get used to each down having that slightly stern element.. very different from sit, come or even close which should all have a much happier, fun tone to them :)
 
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