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new college pet owner

Discussion in 'Introductions' started by zmancb7, Aug 25, 2013.


  1. zmancb7

    zmancb7 PetForums Newbie

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    Hello all,

    My name is Frank and currently I am housing a Labrador Pit Bull mix for a friend who can't have him in her apartment.

    Besides a couple fish and a guinea pig, I got my first "real" pet this past summer. A baby tuxedo cat. He lives at home with my mom while I'm at school. I cared for him all summer and he is a fun, energetic and lovable kitten at almost 5 months right now.

    I recently moved into the Fraternity house in college where I've lived for the past year and a friend asked me about housing her puppy. It's a weird situation regarding why she'd get one without a home for it but I have the room and time for it, plus I've always wanted a dog so I agreed.

    I live in a decent sized bedroom with a 4 story house that has plenty of yard space as well as an indoor room used for meetings large enough for indoor exercise.

    The puppy's name is Elliot and he is now 7 weeks old. He was born with worms and already has his 1st dewormer.

    Right now his crate is in my room and he sleeps there and is in there when I'm out and will be in there when I'm in class.

    Now that the intro is out of the way, a few questions:

    Should I ask the following in the dog chat section or will I get answers here?

    1. I know nothing of raising dogs, having just raised my kitty this summer but I want to train it well and ensure he gets everything he needs while he's with me. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should do differently given my unique housing situation?

    2. He is going to be (and already is) a very social pup. We have 25 guys living in the house and people come and go non stop, especially with parties as you can imagine.

    3. How should I handle the worm situation? I've been told to tell people to wash their hands after he licks them and not to let him lick their mouth. I found this weird since my kitten was also born with worms (as I was told they all were) and no one ever said anything about them being transferred. Should I keep advising people about the worms or is it ok? I read that he shouldn't lick or play with young children or other dogs until he's better (which I've been doing).

    4. POTTY TRAINING. Everyone's favorite. I take him outside pretty often and he normally pees/poops outside which I then praise him for, sometimes giving a treat in return. There have been a few instances of him peeing/ pooping in the house.
    -He peed in my room his first night here.
    -He peed in his crate where he sleeps twice in the past 4 days. I only notice when I wake up to feed him.
    -He's peed in the hallways of the house on our way to go potty outside.
    -He's peed and pooped in someone else's room once.

    He really doesn't show any signs of wanting to go to the bathroom. He might whine in his sleep but I've never heard him. Am I doing something wrong or is it just a puppy thing?

    5. How much should I be feeding him with the worms? The vet said he is underweight for his age because of the worms. The owner told me to give him a quarter cup of food 3 times a day, but she then said to give a little more because of the worms.

    6. He is entering his teething stage. He bites everything as all dogs do I assume. I tell him sternly NO BITING and give him a chew toy instead. Lately, it's becoming more random so I've been hold his head down, looking him in the eyes and sternly saying no biting. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a better way to control this behavior while he's still young?

    7. Everyone says that he is going to love me and probably prefer me over the original owner. I'm not sure of that yet because whenever she comes over he knows who she is above everyone else in this house and he's spent a couple nights over at her place. How can I make sure that I stay an authoritative figure as well as give her tips on how she can be large and in charge? I love this dog and will be sad when he leaves but I know it is her dog and she needs to be the main figurehead.

    All in all, he is the cutest puppy and although it sounds awful, I love him just about as much as I love my kitten, maybe even more. I'm just not used to the amount of attention I get from him, it's really rewarding for him to show so much love.

    So for now, I'm scouring the internet for advice on dog care in general as well as for the breed and I hope you guys can help me out with some more specific stuff.

    Sorry for all the text but I feel I had a lot to go over/ explain. Thanks in advance for all the advice.
     
  2. Knightofalbion

    Knightofalbion PetForums VIP

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    A very warm welcome to the forum, dear Frank.

    Head on down to the dedicated 'Dog' section. You should find all the information and advice you need there.
     
  3. dogandbone

    dogandbone PetForums Member

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    Hi Frank and welcome to the forum.

    As KoA says, just click/ask questions on the appropriate part of the forum and you should find everything you need to know, everyone's really helpful and friendly on here!
     
  4. Sled dog hotel

    Sled dog hotel PetForums VIP

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    Mixing and meeting a lot of people is good. 8 weeks to leave mum and littermates would have been better as pups go through a lot of critical stages of development especially in the first 16 weeks. You will need to get him vaccinated, until he is fully vaccinated he wont be able to walk around and be on ground where dogs have been as things like parvo virus is transferred in the faeces of infected dogs and can exist for long periods in the environment. You can however until then carry him around as long as he doesn't have immediate contact with other dogs and the ground he will be fine. It will start his socialisation and start getting him used to sights sounds and situations outside. A very good link explaining the importance of socialisation and how to do it is on the link below. There is a download at the end of the breeds and early caregivers section and the new owners section that you can follow.
    The Puppy Plan

    Early training is a good thing too, you can start doing training sessions now using reward based training using praise and treats when he gets it right teaching him the basic commands. Once he has had his full vaccinations and can go out, it would be good to perhaps take him to training classes for more socialisation and training with other dogs. You can then practice what you have learned in his daily training sessions.

    A lot of pups are born with worms, usually its worse if the mum wasn't wormed properly, they catch them from her, via the placenta and as larvae in the milk. Even if the Mum has been wormed dormant worms can get missed and the hormones in pregnancy activate them. You need to put him on a continued worming programme, Pups should be wormed from 2 weeks old or some breeders leave it until they start weaning onto proper food, they should then be wormed every 2/3 weeks until they are 12 weeks old, then monthly up to 6months old and then once they are 6months, then worming like adults, every 2/3 months. Has he been de-fleaed? You can check if he has fleas by looking through his coat, if you see what looks like specks of dirt or grit, then brush them onto white kitchen paper towel, drip on a couple of drops of water if they turn red/reddish brown its flea dirts digested blood. He will probably scratch too if he has fleas. You can speak to the veterinarian about his vaccination, worming and flea treatment schedules. Pups mostly have round worms, they are passed out in the faeces and can exist in the environment for long periods, pups can become infected by ingesting the eggs. Apart from good hygine, cleaning up after him, you should be safe if he is on a proper worming schedule and normal hand hygine.

    At his age, pups don't have much in the way of great capacity to hold amounts of pee and faeces for long periods. They also don't have a lot in the way of control at first, and don't always recognise the need to go or realise too late so they do have accidents. Capacity and control comes with age and training.
    You need to take him out every 30/45 minutes, if he starts to go, then use a word of choice, if you use it all the time, he will eventually associate the word you choose with toileting, later when he does and is older you should find that you can use it as a toilet cue/command getting him to toilet on command in a lot of cases. They usually need to go too after drinking, eating, playing and sleeping s take him out then too. When you know he has finished lots of praise and treats to re-enforce that he has got it right and encourage him to do it more and more outside. At his age he likely wont be able to hold it all night for awhile. If he is within sight and sound of you, when he wakes or stirs pop him out in the night. No talking to him or bright lights on, as that will stimulate him wide awake, just out, toilet a couple of words of praise and a couple of treats and back to bed. If he doesn't wake you or tell you, or you sleep through if he wakes or stirs, then maybe set an alarm a couple of times and pop him out that way. Usually over the next weeks the need to go at night should get less and less until he will be going through until early morning. If he has an accident don't tell him off or be harsh with him, it can make them nervous about going in front of you, making toilet training harder, it can also make some, sneak off and do it too more.
    You need to get a special pet stain/odour remover as any smells left will encourage him to do it more in the same areas. Look out for circling sniffing and scratching about that's usually a sign they are looking to go, so get him out quick. As said though at his age, they don't always recognise the need to go or realise too late so you may not see that at the moment. When you are at lectures, or out, is there some housemates who will take over toilet duties? The more you can get him out and consistently the quicker he will learn outside is the correct place. It is a lot of work in the early weeks, but it will pay off if your consistent and stick to it.
    Once he is on a proper worming programme it kills them quickly and will continue to make sure he has gotten rid of them. At his age he should be on four meals a day, with his daily ration, split into 4 equal quantities, fed at set meal times equally spaced apart. The food container will give you a guide, remember though it is only a guide some will need more some a little less. If you over feed a pup, its likely just going to cause diarrhoea and loose motions. With a good quality food with the right amount and if wormed properly he should soon put on weight.
    All puppies bite and nip, usually more when teething. In the litter they chase jump on each other and bite in play and to instigate play. As said he was a bit early to leave mum and littermates, as that is where they learn about bite inhibition. When his teeth touch you even if it doesn't hurt, yelp like a pup in pain. AS they do it often to get attention too, don't reward him for biting, looking at them, making eye contact, pushing them away, repeatedly saying no is all forms of acknowledgement. After yelping, fold your arms, and turn your back on him, and as your turning say off. Stand still back to him and look at the ceiling, ignore him until he has ceased, then call him to you get hi to sit and praise and give a treat for the behaviour you do want, repeat it and keep repeating it if you have too. He should learn that biting you gets him nothing at all. Calm not biting behaviour gets him a lot of things.

    Another thing you can do is put him on a time out, when he bites you, pop them into another room, let them calm down and let them out and continue to ignore him, then call him to you get him to sit, and then reward the calm behaviour you do want with praise and a treat. If he starts again you consistently keep repeating it. Don't know how that's going to work though with your living situation. You need to make sure he has lots of toys and chews that are safe to take out the need to bite on. Yelp and re direct him onto those too.

    You can actually teach him that biting hard is not right through play. By getting some soft fabric or an old soft towel and tie knots in it. You invite him to play and as long as he is calmly mouthing and not biting hard, game continues, if he starts to get over excited and bites hard, you say OFF and the game ceases, its put away until he is calm again, and then game begins, plays nicely and controlled and doesn't bite hard game continues, starts to loose control and bites hard Off and the game goes away. You need to finish the game finally when you decide too.
    Puppies his age are generally dependant and eager to please. They basically want food, attention and training and company. They do need consistency too and direction and a routine. Training is important, he is a blank canvas its up to you to teach him whats acceptable behaviour and whats not and that is done through consistency and training. Teaching him commands, and how to behave buy rewarding behaviours you want, and ensuring he is not rewarded for behaviours you don't want. Training also builds bonds and focus.
    All puppies are cute and loveable. Don't fall into the trap a lot of people do, whats often cute and amusing wont be In a large dog. Just keep in mind that behaviours you may find adorable now wont be in the adolescent and adult when he is big to you or other people. Its up to you to shape the dog that he is to become.
     
  5. lucy963

    lucy963 PetForums Senior

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    Welcome to the forum.
     
  6. zmancb7

    zmancb7 PetForums Newbie

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    Thanks everyone for the welcome! I'll be posting in the other thread as not to clutter this one. Thanks again for all the help!
     
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