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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there anything I should do diffirently? After the possiblity that my baby may have been stressed from being out in the shed (even though he was in a shed with his breeder) I have decided to keep a bun inside. I have ordered an indoor cage and I'm planning on having another mini lop. I have contacted a BRC member about the possibility of having one of her babies (if she lets me).

I'm a bit nervous as I don't know what to expect with a show breeder as I've only had 2 rabbits, one I was given by my brother when he got sick of it when we were kids and the other I got recently from a hobby breeder and he died 8 days later... I'm so devistated I want to make sure everything is perfect before I get another... I have done the research on rabbits and know what they need.

I have all the stuff (toys etc) but I will disinfect them just incase. Anything else I should do?
 

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Wherever you keep your bunny, it will need a large space - not just the occasional run out. Inside, that might mean permanent access to a room, or a large pen.

It can be quite difficult bunny proofing a house - you have to stay one step ahead. Bunnies can be jumpers, chewers, escape artists - and not all of them can be litter trained - although most can be.

A bunny would not be happpy living in a hutch or cage, wtih occasional runs out, so they take up a lot of space. Also, ideally a bunny needs a bunny friend - and of course they need neutering/spaying.

Even two females living together need spaying, as there is a high risk of uterine cancer without.

Have you considered going to a rescue to adopt a ready bonded pair? A good rescue would give you good support too.

Sorry to bombard you with so much info - do read the stickys too - it's great having house buns - but your house is not your house any more - they just take over!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you, so far I have an indoor cage coming on Wednesday. I am going to neuter him and have found a good vet that does it. We handle regularly so for now I'm just getting one.. I don't want to get 2 when I haven't the experience yet and also my place isn't the biggest so will just get one for now.
The breeder contacted me today, she has some slightly older baby rabbits available. So I am going to see them next week after the cage arrives.

The vet told me my first bun died of bloat, it was caused by the breeder forgetting to give me change over food and he wasn't eating very well. This is what the vet told me.

I was advised a boy rabbit is best for a pet as females can become temperamental. This is what the breeder said. I am getting a sooty fawn boy hopefully :) Thursday is a viewing with a look to bringing home. She asked me questions about what I was going to keep him in, what I had for him etc and was happy with what I have. She mixes her own food but I already have budgess excel food so I am going to wean him onto it slowly so I don't upset him.

I'm not sure which one I'm having yet as she has a pair of brothers. But will see which one likes me more on thursday. Thanks for advice. I have read link and stickies :) Even the one about breeding but not wanting to do that anyway as enough in rescue. I did consider taking on a rescue bunny but the nearest one is quite far and I can not drive. The breeder has agreed to drive me home with him so as not to stress him. My vet is very local or I couldn't consider having one.
M~
 
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Thank you, so far I have an indoor cage coming on Wednesday. I am going to neuter him and have found a good vet that does it. We handle regularly so for now I'm just getting one.. I don't want to get 2 when I haven't the experience yet and also my place isn't the biggest so will just get one for now.
The breeder contacted me today, she has some slightly older baby rabbits available. So I am going to see them next week after the cage arrives.

The vet told me my first bun died of bloat, it was caused by the breeder forgetting to give me change over food and he wasn't eating very well. This is what the vet told me.

I was advised a boy rabbit is best for a pet as females can become temperamental. This is what the breeder said. I am getting a sooty fawn boy hopefully :) Thursday is a viewing with a look to bringing home. She asked me questions about what I was going to keep him in, what I had for him etc and was happy with what I have. She mixes her own food but I already have budgess excel food so I am going to wean him onto it slowly so I don't upset him.

I'm not sure which one I'm having yet as she has a pair of brothers. But will see which one likes me more on thursday. Thanks for advice. I have read link and stickies :) Even the one about breeding but not wanting to do that anyway as enough in rescue. I did consider taking on a rescue bunny but the nearest one is quite far and I can not drive. The breeder has agreed to drive me home with him so as not to stress him. My vet is very local or I couldn't consider having one.
M~
Your vet was most likely correct, babies have very delicate tummies so any change of diet before they are 12 weeks old can have devastating effects :(

Please could you reconsider about just having one bun, lone rabbits can become very bored and lonely which could lead on to him becoming very destructive as a result.
If you have enough space for one rabbit then you will have enough space for two :) After seeing the difference in lone rabbits after they have been bonded to a friend I can personally never condone lone rabbits. They may appear happy to you or I, but believe me they do suffer in silence :(

What cage have you decided on for your new bun?
 

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It's really great that you are genning up before getting another bun.

Bernie above is an oracle when it comes to all things rabbit related, so you will get lots of support on here.

You were certainly let down by the breeder if they didn't give you any food supplies when you brought your bunny home. So when you get your new bunny, do make sure they give you some, and find out exactly how much the breeder feeds, and at what times daily.

At home, you would then follow exactly the same regime for a week, to let bun settle and stabilise. The next step would be to really gradually mix in a little of the food you plan to use. Over the next days, you would gradually mix in more, until the changeover was complete.

Burgess Excel is a well known make of rabbit food, but just to warn you - it doesn't have the best ingredients, as I believe it contains animal derivatives. it can cause tummy upsets in some bunnies. Many people avoid it.

We use Science Selective, which is far better for bunnies.

It might be best to avoid going back to the same breeder, in case they aren't weaning properly - it would be awful to go through the same thing again. Some breeders move baby buns out far too quickly, which makes the babies very vulnerable.

Like Bernie, I would say that if you are able to have 2 bunnies you would be amazed at how lovely it is to see them together. They will still bond to you too.

We have 18 bunnies here - some indoors, some outdoors. They are as different as people. They have all been spayed or neutered, and I have to say, we don't have a grumpy one here amongst them. Only me!

I think it is the unspayed females that are likely to be hormonal and territorial about their hutches - perhaps that it why the breeder said what they did.
 

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I'll just add, two is no diff to one, infact its maybe easier, cos they bond and stimulate each other.
I litter trained winnie at six weeks old and she is an indoor bunny, she had bugsy ( a rescue before he died ) and after he went she was ok cos she has four cats she adores here. But without her cats she would be extremely lonely and bored.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I was told because I'm getting mini lops you can't neuter until they are about 6 months and that if I wanted another to get a girl after that (never a boy because they could fight to the death). I wouldn't want to run the risk of having babies especially as I do not have experience with them also there are lots of bunnies in rescue so best to leave that to proper breeders which know what they are doing. I will get another one after he's been neautered if it's in his best interest. I don't want my bunny to get depressed :(

I have a indoor cage the big one, coming it' s a ferpast on one level. But will only be in there in the first week or so settling in and then will be out with us all the time except at night.
I was under the impression that with 2 bunnies you needed double the space? But thats just my opinion, no one told me that or anything. I will talk to the breeder about it when I go to see them.

Pics below of 2 boys I'm going to visit. Also add not from same breeder as before..
 

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It's great that you are finding out all you can - and even better that you don't plan on breeding. The preloved ads are sadly all to full of baby buns, bred but with no home to go to.

so yes - a pair of buns would need to be spayed/neuterred before they lived together.

We have a pair of does, now 6, with us since they were babies, and they have always lived together, so there were ready bonded. They were spayed as soon as possible, and they get along fine. However, when hormones kick in, rabbits can fall out, as they try to sort out the dominance.

We have had a pair of well bonded brothers, but I wouldn't recommend that.

Rescue buns are usually ready neutered/spayed/bonded, which makes things easier.

Re accommodation size, an average pair of bunnies - or solo bunny -needs a hutch/cage that is a minimum of 6ft by 2ft, and permanent access to a large, safe space that they can run and play in, that is tall enough for them to stretch right up in.

bonding does have ot be done carefully, and yes - if the buns were just put in together and took a dislike to each other, they could fight to the death. there is some excellent info on here though - see Sticky thread.
 
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It's great that you are finding out all you can - and even better that you don't plan on breeding. The preloved ads are sadly all to full of baby buns, bred but with no home to go to.

so yes - a pair of buns would need to be spayed/neuterred before they lived together.

We have a pair of does, now 6, with us since they were babies, and they have always lived together, so there were ready bonded. They were spayed as soon as possible, and they get along fine. However, when hormones kick in, rabbits can fall out, as they try to sort out the dominance.

We have had a pair of well bonded brothers, but I wouldn't recommend that.

Rescue buns are usually ready neutered/spayed/bonded, which makes things easier.

Re accommodation size, an average pair of bunnies - or solo bunny -needs a hutch/cage that is a minimum of 6ft by 2ft, and permanent access to a large, safe space that they can run and play in, that is tall enough for them to stretch right up in.

bonding does have ot be done carefully, and yes - if the buns were just put in together and took a dislike to each other, they could fight to the death. there is some excellent info on here though - see Sticky thread.
I agree with everything that Summersky said, as usual :lol:

I will highlight that when it comes to bonding bunnies when they are neutered sex really has little to do with it, it is all about matching personalities. Although the easiest combo by far is a neutered buck with a spayed doe :)

When you get your boy why not have a look for a rescue doe for him as a friend. He will able to be neutered once his furry teabags drop (between 4-6 months) and then the rescue could help you with bonding too.
That would save you the stress and cost of a spay and you could help a rescue bunny find a forever home :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I agree with everything that Summersky said, as usual :lol:

I will highlight that when it comes to bonding bunnies when they are neutered sex really has little to do with it, it is all about matching personalities. Although the easiest combo by far is a neutered buck with a spayed doe :)

When you get your boy why not have a look for a rescue doe for him as a friend. He will able to be neutered once his furry teabags drop (between 4-6 months) and then the rescue could help you with bonding too.
That would save you the stress and cost of a spay and you could help a rescue bunny find a forever home :thumbup:
I'd love to do that, but the rescue requires that you drive down there. I can't drive.. it's far enough I could get a train to visit but not to bring back the rabbit as there would be no way on this earth I'd even consider taking a rabbit on the train as it would stress the poor mite :( I will however save up for a pet taxi to pick me up with one, do you think it would be okay after christmas? Because lots of people dump their poor babies in rescue over christmas and I'd love to give one a second chance (the pet taxi would be expensive as it's quite a long distance to the nearest place).
 
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I'd love to do that, but the rescue requires that you drive down there. I can't drive.. it's far enough I could get a train to visit but not to bring back the rabbit as there would be no way on this earth I'd even consider taking a rabbit on the train as it would stress the poor mite :( I will however save up for a pet taxi to pick me up with one, do you think it would be okay after christmas? Because lots of people dump their poor babies in rescue over christmas and I'd love to give one a second chance (the pet taxi would be expensive as it's quite a long distance to the nearest place).
If you have a look on Rabbit Rehome (the site is down at the mo so can't link it) there are a few rescues that will rehome nationally to the right home, many, many people will offer to help transport bunny up to you if you put out a transport plee too :thumbup1:

After Christmas would be great because as you say there will be an influx due to unwanted presents or a new puppy has turned up :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
People rehome because of a puppy? :001_huh: Surely you can train a puppy? My dogs had to be trained with the cat as they would never leave her alone otherwise.
 
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People rehome because of a puppy? :001_huh: Surely you can train a puppy? My dogs had to be trained with the cat as they would never leave her alone otherwise.
Yes they do, and believe me when I say that SOME people will rehome because the animal no longer matches the deco in the house. Some of the excuses people use to ease their guilt of getting "rid" of a pet is beyond ridiculous :(
I have one here that was given up due to a new puppy and two others that are here because the owner was pregnant :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Yes they do, and believe me when I say that SOME people will rehome because the animal no longer matches the deco in the house. Some of the excuses people use to ease their guilt of getting "rid" of a pet is beyond ridiculous :(
I have one here that was given up due to a new puppy and two others that are here because the owner was pregnant :rolleyes:
:mad: Those are not good reasons for rehoming!! I lived in a caravan for 2 months while I found a rental that would except pets and believe me when I say it was not very nice living conditions! But I did it as I didn't want to loose my babies! We have a place now. I'd not give my animals up because of pregnancy. I had a baby with animals, yes it's more work, but people who rehome for that reason are just flipping lazy! I still managed to take care of my pets and have a child with colic :mad: Sorry but rant over now..
 

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Some bunnies are given up for legitimate reasons - one of our old ladies was rehomed when her elderly owner died. A group of four came back to the centre, after a horrific family bereavement.

But these, sadly, are few and far between.

Many are just left at the gates, so we never know their story. Lots of people find they are over run with bunny babies - pet shops are sometimes to blame when they mis sex the babies.

One of our bunnies came to the rescue after it was found dumped in a box by the roadside. Its littermate was dead in the same box. Happily, our little fellow is the eternal optimist, and he loves life.

Many people give up bunnies or set them free when the kids lose interest. Some are given up when relationships break up.

Some bunnies are brought in by inspectors, and the condition they arrive in is absolutely horrific - obese or starving, riddled with mites, uriner scald from sitting in squalid conditions ............

I once went to a house with someone to help a "struggling owner"- a teacher as it happens - lovely house, very tidy - in her garden were 2 bunnies living in a pile of **** - no other word for it - inches of it, everywhere. Could not have been cleaned for weeks and weeks. Flies everywhere too. The rabbits were in a very poor state. She was just too busy to care.

Others get a new pet, or the bunny doesn't live up to their expectations of being a cuddle bunny.

Worse still, there are many bunnies living in the most cruel conditions, largely forgotten, in a tiny hutch at the end of the garden, receiving the barest of "care", because the kids have lost interest.

This is why so many of us on here urge people to consider a rescue bun - all they need is someone who cares. And yes, bunny runs can be arranged.

Sorry for going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thats okay, I would probably go to the rescue thats near me because I can get a pet taxi back with the bunny and I can also meet it first. But will wait till after Christmas. I did speak to her. She said if I get a boy first it's best because if I get a girl first and I add to her cage she could be territorial and paring them works better if the boy is there first. I will definaty go down there after Christmas and see what they have. I am having mini lops but if rescue would consider a small breed female. My main concern is that the rabbit be used to dogs being 'around' of course I have to train my dogs to leave the cage alone and bunny will be in the bedroom away from them to settle in. They are sniffers, they would sniff sniff sniff but never hurt. One dog grooms the cat the other ignores her. 4 days to go :D I am going to see them thursday. I have a few ideas for names :)
 
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Thats okay, I would probably go to the rescue thats near me because I can get a pet taxi back with the bunny and I can also meet it first. But will wait till after Christmas. I did speak to her. She said if I get a boy first it's best because if I get a girl first and I add to her cage she could be territorial and paring them works better if the boy is there first. I will definaty go down there after Christmas and see what they have. I am having mini lops but if rescue would consider a small breed female. My main concern is that the rabbit be used to dogs being 'around' of course I have to train my dogs to leave the cage alone and bunny will be in the bedroom away from them to settle in. They are sniffers, they would sniff sniff sniff but never hurt. One dog grooms the cat the other ignores her. 4 days to go :D I am going to see them thursday. I have a few ideas for names :)
Bonding should never happen in the rabbits "home" anyway, all bondings need to be done on neutral territory if it has any chance of working and then after bonding the cage should be scrubbed with white vinegar, bleach and hot water to get rid of any previous smells so it really doesn't matter which sex you get first.
I know you have a choice of two boys anyway but just thought I'd highlight that :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Bonding should never happen in the rabbits "home" anyway, all bondings need to be done on neutral territory if it has any chance of working and then after bonding the cage should be scrubbed with white vinegar, bleach and hot water to get rid of any previous smells so it really doesn't matter which sex you get first.
I know you have a choice of two boys anyway but just thought I'd highlight that :)
Alright, thanks :)
 
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