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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, needing some advice please.

Quick background info..... he had major surgery aged 7 months on his knee and had to crated for 4 weeks 24/7.... then another 3 weeks still crated 24/7 with short walks. Followed by short lead walks only...... so basically everybit of training we had done has been wrecked.

Fast forward to now and we now have a nearly one year old lab who is super strong.....and completely uncontrollable out on a walk when he sees another dog.

We have big garden and within the garden his recall is very very good.... we have another dog come over to play and he has a great time playing but recall goes out the window in his excitement.... work in progress.

Out on walks, he lead walks beautifully, his recall is getting very good on a long line but as soon as dog comes along it is like flying a kite - he goes mental.

Our dog walker comes 2 times a day ( i am out till 3 each day) and she used to train guide dogs so is working wonders with him.....

Have met some guys out and about who are happy for me to let him off with their dogs (in an enclosed field) but I know for a fact he won't come back to me unless their dogs go back to them and he will play hard and i worry he will play too hard. (not good for his knee and also worry for other dog.....he is not aggressive at all, but mental play).

How do i fix this without taking a chance of letting him loose with other dogs (with owners consent)? I worry by doing this he will just think he can play with any dog and we will be no further forward.

I know how we have got to this stage so don't need hard time etc - please just some constructive advice on how to fix it.

Any advice please?? thank you
 

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Could you use a headcollar or front clip harness for walks to give you extra control? There are loads of methods like 'watch me' etc but the best thing that I have found for learning to listen to me around dogs and walk past them nicely has been training classes - do you attend any?

As for the letting him off to play; perhaps you can make him earn it? If I go to meet Kilo's 'friends' for a play I make him walk onto the fields nicely - no matter how long it takes, walk nicely with me for a short distance around the field - or around the whole field if he's going well. He also has to sit and wait until let off to play. Have you got a longline to ensure he recalls?

I also recall him when I see unfamiliar dogs coming onto the fields (or wherever we are) and practise simple obedience stuff, heelwork, distract and play tug with a toy etc so Kilo gets the idea that just because he sees a dog does not automatically mean that he is going to meet it.

I would probably ensure he recalls from one familiar dog in the garden before expecting him to recall from playing with others outside where there are more distractions.
 

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Training, training and training.

As long as the dog views OTHER dogs as the MAJOR source of fun, you will be merely a means of transportation to the canine equivalent of Disneyland. Your presence will be irrelevant.

What owners need to do is classically condition their dogs that the most fun happens WITH their owners in the PRESENCE of other dogs but not necessarily WITH them.

Owner compliance is generally poor in this regard as they fail to understand the dangers of letting dogs run riot together until it is too late and also the emphasis on socialisation has made them think this is of utmost importance.

You are not alone but you are very wise in identifying that you have a problem and it will continue to get worse if you do not interrupt this behaviour.

I would recommend a harness, long line and gloves.

Why can't I get a reliable recall?

'Come' is no harder to train than any other behaviour but in real life it has a huge number of criteria that have to be raised one at a time in order to guarantee success.

Often when puppies are brought home to their new owners this is the first time they have ever been separated from their dam and siblings and so they naturally attach themselves to their new family by following them about everywhere. Owners find this quite attractive and wrongly assume that this trait will continue into adolescence/adulthood, whatever the circumstances. A dangerous trap to fall into…

At some point in time, usually from around 6 - 10 months, depending on the individual, "Velcro" dog will morph into "Bog off" dog (this is especially true of a breed that has been developed to exhibit a high degree of initiative). This is the time when owners suddenly realize that their dog will not recall when it sees another dog/person etc. Not only is this inconvenient but potentially dangerous as the dog could be at risk of injury from a car/train/another dog etc.

How and when do I start with a puppy?

My advice is to prepare for this inevitability from the day you take your puppy home. If you are lucky the breeder will have started this process whilst still in the nest by conditioning the puppies to a whistle blown immediately before putting the food bowl down during weaning.

Dogs learn by cause and effect ie sound of whistle = food. If you, the new owner, continue this from the moment your puppy arrives you will lay down strong foundations for the future.

By using the whistle in association with meals/food you need to establish the following criteria:
• Come from across the room.
• Come from out of sight
• Come no matter who calls
• Come even if you are busy doing something else
• Come even if you are asleep.
• Come even if you are playing with something/someone else
• Come even if you are eating

Once this goal has been realized in the house, drop all the criteria to zero and establish the same measures, one at a time, in the garden.

Once this goal has been realized in the garden, drop all the criteria to zero and establish the same measures, one at a time, in the park/field etc.

To train this, or any other behaviour:

1. Make it easy for the dog to get it right
2. Provide sufficient reward

Do not expect a dog to come away from distractions in the park until you have trained it to come to you in the park when no diversions are around. Be realistic and manage your expectations; your sphere of influence/control over your dog may be only 20m to begin with, therefore do not hazard a guess that the dog, at this level of training, will successfully recall from 50m or more away. Distance, like every other criterion, must be built up over time.

Some simple rules to follow when training the recall:

• Whistle/signal/call only once (why train the dog to deliberately ignore your first command?)
• Do not reinforce slow responses for the dog coming eventually after it has cocked its leg, sniffed the tree etc (you get what you train!)
• If you know that the dog will not come back to you in a certain situation, go and get him rather than risk teaching him that he can ignore you. (If you have followed the programme correctly you will never put your dog in a position to fail).
• Practise recalling the dog, putting him on the lead for a few seconds, reinforce with food/toy etc and immediately release the dog. Do this several times during a walk etc so that the dog does not associate a recall with going on the lead and ending the walk or being put on the lead with the cessation of fun.
• Eventually, when the behaviour is very strong, alternate rewards ie verbal praise, physical praise, food, toy and also vary the "value" of the rewards, sometimes a plain piece of biscuit, sometimes a piece of cooked liver etc so that you become a walking slot machine (and we all know how addictive gambling can be)!

In my experience recall training should be consistent and relentless for the first two years of a dog's life before it can be considered truly dependable. You should look on it as a series of incremental steps, rather than a single simple behaviour, and something that will require lifelong maintenance.

What about an older or rescue dog?

Follow the same programme as outlined above however for recalcitrant dogs that have received little or no training, I would recommend dispensing with the food bowl and feeding a dog only during recalls to establish a strong behaviour quickly.

Your training should be over several sessions a day, which means you can avoid the risk of bloat. It is essential that the dog learns that there will be consequences for failure as well as success.

Divide the day's food ration up into small bags (between10 - 30), if the dog recalls first time, it gets food, if it does not, you can make a big show of saying "too bad" and disposing of that portion of food (either throw it away or put aside for the next day).

Again, raise the criteria slowly as outlined in puppy training.

Hunger is very motivating!

For those of you who believe it unfair/unhealthy to deprive a dog of its full daily ration, not having a reliable recall is potentially life threatening for the dog ……………

How do I stop my dog chasing joggers/cyclists/skateboarders/rabbits/deer?

Chasing something that is moving is a management issue. Do not put your dog in a position where it can make a mistake. Again you need to start training from a pup but if you have already allowed your dog to learn and practise this behaviour you may need to rely on a trailing line until your dog is desensitised to these distractions and knows that listening to you results in a great reinforcement. Chasing is a behaviour much better never learned as it is naturally reinforcing to the dog, which makes it hard for you to offer a better reinforcement. If you want to have a bombproof recall while your dog is running away from you then use the following approach:

Your goal is to train so that your dog is totally used to running away from you at top speed, and then turning on a sixpence to run toward you when you give the recall cue.

You need to set up the training situation so that you have total control over the triggers. For this you will need to gain the co-operation of a helper. If you have a toy crazy dog you can practice this exercise by throwing a toy away from the dog towards someone standing 30 or 40 feet away. At the instant the toy is thrown, recall your dog! If the dog turns toward you, back up several steps quickly, creating even more distance between the you and the toy and then throw another toy in the opposite direction (same value as one thrown)..

If the dog ignores you and continues toward the thrown object, your "helper" simply picks the ball up and ignores dog. When dog eventually returns (which it will because it's getting no reinforcement from anyone or anything), praise only. Pretty soon the dog will start to respond to a recall off a thrown toy. You will need to mix in occasions the toy is thrown and the dog is allowed to get it ie you do NOT recall if you want to make sure it does not lose enthusiasm for retrieving.

For the food obsessed dog, you can get your helper to wave a food bowl with something the dog loves in it and then recall the dog as soon as you let it go to run towards the food; again if the dog ignores you and continues to the food, your helper simply ensures the dog cannot access the food and start again. (It is extremely important that the helper does not use your dog's name to call it for obvious reasons).

Gradually increase the difficulty of the recall by letting the dog get closer and closer to the toy/food. Praise the moment the dog turns away from the toy/food in the
early stages of training. Don't wait until the dog returns to you; the dog must have instant feedback.

Once the dog is fluent at switching directions in the middle of a chase, try setting up the situation so that it is more like real life. Have someone ride a bike/run/skate past. (It is unrealistic to factor in deer/rabbits however if your training is thorough the dog will eventually be conditioned to return to you whatever the temptation in most contexts).

Until your training gets to this level, don't let the dog off-lead in a situation in which you don't have control over the chase triggers. Don't set the dog up to fail, and don't allow it to rehearse the problem behaviour. Remember, every time a dog is able to practise an undesirable behaviour it will get better at it!

Most people do not play with toys correctly and therefore the dog is not interested in them or, if it gets them, fails to bring it back to the owner.

Play the two ball game, once you have a dog ball crazy. Have two balls the same, throw one to the left, when the dog gets it, call him like crazy waving the next ball; as he comes back throw the other ball to the right and keep going left right so that YOU are the centre of the game and the dog gets conditioned to return to you for the toy. Once this behaviour is established you can then introduce the cues for out and then make control part of the game ie the game is contingent on the dog sitting and then progress to a sequence of behaviours.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for your response.... yes we use a head collar and the results were amazing and that is why we now have such lovely lead walks. We can now walk without it too at times.

But even with it on and he sees a dog, he goes nuts. Hubby said yesterday folk with wee dogs picked them up to walk past him..... thats a terrible state to be in :nonod:

I do still use a longline on him for recall outwith the garden and will do until his recall is completely reliable.

We used to go to classes pre op but i can't see him being allowed in a class the way he is currently around other dogs....

Do you know what, he is a fabulous dog and such a fast learner - i just don't seem to be getting this bit right at all. :blush:
 

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Courses

Ultimate Recall: 4 Day Course with John Rogerson

• Training a reliable, automatic, non-negotiable, reality recall
• Building block and foundation training of the recall
• Relationship/influence building in recall training
• The chasing/emergency recall
• Sit and/or down on recall
• Freeze/stop on recall/running wait
• Distance/direction control
• Calling dogs off of distractions
• Out of sight recall (owner hidden)
• Obedience/competition recall (dog is called from a stationary position)
• Free running recall (dog is called while in motion)
• Type "A" recall (dog re-joins his owner in motion)

JOHN RESERVES THE RIGHT TO ADJUST COURSE CONTENT BASED ON THE ABILITIES OF DOGS AND HANDLERS ENROLLED ON THE COURSE.

Dates for Ultimate Recall Course:

At Nottingham, England
26th - 29th October, 2012; 4 days duration 9.30-4.00 pm
To register contact Beverly Smith at [email protected]

http://www.johnrogerson.com/2012coursesschedule.pdf

Chase Recall Masterclass

Date: Thursday 1st November 2012 Venue: Windsor, Berkshire Max handler places: 10
9.30am registration, 10.00am - 4pm Refreshments and a light lunch included

Following on from the fabulous Chase Recall Masterclass with Stella Bagshaw earlier this month, we are pleased to announce a date for the Chase Recall Practical Masterclass.

In this Masterclass we will be exploring:
How to tailor your training depending on your dog's scorpion level
How to build your training based on practical, workable exercises
How to move from one training level to the next in the real world
Perfecting the advanced "leave"
How, when and what signals to use
Line handling skills that make all the difference
Getting scent to work for you
Games to play with your dog on line
Dogs attending do not need to have a chase/recall issue, but it's a perfect opportunity if they do! Dogs do need
to be social with people and other dogs.

Please be assured that even if you don't bring a dog you will learn just as much from Stella's unique and innovative training approaches. Please note, the venue has a large hall and outside areas - we will be training in both, so please bring suitable outdoor wear.

Non handler place @ £130 (deposit £65)
Handler @ £145 (deposit £65)

http://www.apdt.co.uk/documents/Chas...calNov2012.pdf

How to Change Predatory Chase Behaviour in Dogs with David Ryan

When: Sunday 12th May 2013

Where: Otterbourne Village Hall, Otterbourne, Winchester SO21 2ET

Details: 10am- 4pm registration from 9.30am. £35 per person, lunch included

Throwing a ball for a game of chase is an enjoyable and rewarding experience for many owners and their dogs. For other owners canine chase behaviour turns into a nightmare when their dog chases cyclists, cars or sheep. When their dogs choose what to chase it can compromise owners financially, cause the target severe injury or even death, and threaten the life of the dog. This seminar looks at the reasons for the problem, the more effective solutions and how to control the behaviour.

David Ryan followed 26 years as a police dog handler and Home Office accredited training instructor with a postgraduate Diploma in Companion Animal Behaviour Counselling, with distinction, from Southampton University, an internationally recognised centre of excellence for animal behaviour studies. In 2008 he was certificated as a Clinical Animal Behaviourist by the prestigious Association for the Study of Animal Behaviour.

He was chair of the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors from 2009 to March 2012 and currently works as a companion animal behaviour consultant, being an independently vetted member of the UK Register of Expert Witnesses since 2008.

David has appeared in the internationally scheduled television series 'Crimefighters' focusing on his remarkable and fascinating work with police dogs, and as a guest on the BBC 4 programme "It's only a theory", discussing how dogs have evolved to bark. His dog behaviour articles have appeared in publications as diverse as the Daily Telegraph, Woman's Own, Your Dog and Veterinary Times.

He has been invited at various times to lecture to the Companion Animal Behaviour Therapy Study Group, BSc Animal Behaviour Students at Bishop Burton College and Myerscough College, and Pet Rescue/rehoming Centres, including Battersea Dogs and Cats Home, Merseyside Dogs Trust and Wood Green Animal Shelter. He is currently a guest lecturer on Newcastle University's MSc in Applied Animal Behaviour and Welfare.

David's unique blend of practical experience and theoretical knowledge of canine behaviour fuel his particular interest in inherited predatory motor patterns and the lengths to which pets will go to find a way to express them, usually despite their owners' best efforts

Events - Positive Training for Canines

Books

Stop! How to control predatory Chasing in Dogs
by David Ryan

Chase! Managing Your Dog's Predatory Instincts
By Clarissa Von Reinhardt

Total Recall
By Pippa Mattinson

Teach your Dog to Come When Called
By Erica Peachey

DVDs

Really Reliable Recall
by Leslie Nelson

Training the Recall
By Michael Ellis

Your clever dog: Getting your dog to come when called
by Sarah Whitehead

Does your dog whizz back to you as soon as you call his name?
Can you call him to you even when there are other dogs or distractions? Teaching your dog to come to you when you call is the cornerstone of training and the gateway to allowing him more freedom in the park.
If your dog has selective deafness, ignores you in the garden or the park, or would rather play with other dogs than come when you call, this specially designed training session is for you.
Ideal for starting out with puppies or rehomed dogs, and also for dogs that ignore you or are slow to come when called, despite previous training.
Including:
• How to know what's rewarding for your dog and what's not
• Five times when you shouldn't call your dog!
• Using your voice to call versus using a whistle
• What to do if you call and your dog doesn't come to you
The pack contains: A clicker, long line (worth £10), training manual, instructional DVD: 55 mins approx running time including Bonus trick, Bonus Training Session, Intro to Clicker Training, Q & A with Sarah

Website articles:

http://www.apdt.co.uk/documents/RECALL.pdf

http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/reliable_recall.pdf

Deposits into the Perfect Recall Account

List of Reinforcers

Distractions For Your Recall

Recall Collapse | Susan Garrett's Dog Training Blog

How to Create a Motivating Toy

http://www.cleverdogcompany.com/tl_files/factsheets/Training a whistle recall.pdf

Teaching Come « Ahimsa Dog Blog

How do I stop my dog chasing?

http://www.pawsitivelydogs.co.uk/recall.pdf

Train a

Teaching Your Dog to "Come When Called" | Animal Behavior and Medicine Blog | Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, MS

Become More Exciting Than a Squirrel: Teaching a Reliable Come When Called | Animal Behavior and Medicine Blog | Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, MS
 

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Thank you for your response.... yes we use a head collar and the results were amazing and that is why we now have such lovely lead walks. We can now walk without it too at times.

But even with it on and he sees a dog, he goes nuts. Hubby said yesterday folk with wee dogs picked them up to walk past him..... thats a terrible state to be in :nonod:

I do still use a longline on him for recall outwith the garden and will do until his recall is completely reliable.

We used to go to classes pre op but i can't see him being allowed in a class the way he is currently around other dogs....

Do you know what, he is a fabulous dog and such a fast learner - i just don't seem to be getting this bit right at all. :blush:
You might be surprised if you talk to a trainer. The classes that I go to have some really excitable dogs attend. If they are really boisterous they start by just sitting at the side a distance away, watching and learning to be calm when the other dogs go past, then walking around the outside, then participating in some of the exercises....you get the picture; a gradual integration at the dogs' pace.

Perhaps book a 1-2-1 with a good trainer to see what they think or at least ring to discuss?
 

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220 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Courses

Ultimate Recall: 4 Day Course with John Rogerson

• Training a reliable, automatic, non-negotiable, reality recall
• Building block and foundation training of the recall
• Relationship/influence building in recall training
• The chasing/emergency recall
• Sit and/or down on recall
• Freeze/stop on recall/running wait
• Distance/direction control
• Calling dogs off of distractions
• Out of sight recall (owner hidden)
• Obedience/competition recall (dog is called from a stationary position)
• Free running recall (dog is called while in motion)
• Type "A" recall (dog re-joins his owner in motion)

JOHN RESERVES THE RIGHT TO ADJUST COURSE CONTENT BASED ON THE ABILITIES OF DOGS AND HANDLERS ENROLLED ON THE COURSE.

Dates for Ultimate Recall Course:

At Nottingham, England
26th – 29th October, 2012; 4 days duration 9.30-4.00 pm
To register contact Beverly Smith at [email protected]

http://www.johnrogerson.com/2012coursesschedule.pdf

Chase Recall Masterclass

Date: Thursday 1st November 2012 Venue: Windsor, Berkshire Max handler places: 10
9.30am registration, 10.00am - 4pm Refreshments and a light lunch included

Following on from the fabulous Chase Recall Masterclass with Stella Bagshaw earlier this month, we are pleased to announce a date for the Chase Recall Practical Masterclass.

In this Masterclass we will be exploring:
How to tailor your training depending on your dog's scorpion level
How to build your training based on practical, workable exercises
How to move from one training level to the next in the real world
Perfecting the advanced "leave"
How, when and what signals to use
Line handling skills that make all the difference
Getting scent to work for you
Games to play with your dog on line
Dogs attending do not need to have a chase/recall issue, but it's a perfect opportunity if they do! Dogs do need
to be social with people and other dogs.

Please be assured that even if you don't bring a dog you will learn just as much from Stella's unique and innovative training approaches. Please note, the venue has a large hall and outside areas – we will be training in both, so please bring suitable outdoor wear.

Non handler place @ £130 (deposit £65)
Handler @ £145 (deposit £65)

http://www.apdt.co.uk/documents/Chas...calNov2012.pdf

How to Change Predatory Chase Behaviour in Dogs with David Ryan

When: Sunday 12th May 2013

Where: Otterbourne Village Hall, Otterbourne, Winchester SO21 2ET

Details: 10am- 4pm registration from 9.30am. £35 per person, lunch included

Throwing a ball for a game of chase is an enjoyable and rewarding experience for many owners and their dogs. For other owners canine chase behaviour turns into a nightmare when their dog chases cyclists, cars or sheep. When their dogs choose what to chase it can compromise owners financially, cause the target severe injury or even death, and threaten the life of the dog. This seminar looks at the reasons for the problem, the more effective solutions and how to control the behaviour.

David Ryan followed 26 years as a police dog handler and Home Office accredited training instructor with a postgraduate Diploma in Companion Animal Behaviour Counselling, with distinction, from Southampton University, an internationally recognised centre of excellence for animal behaviour studies. In 2008 he was certificated as a Clinical Animal Behaviourist by the prestigious Association for the Study of Animal Behaviour.

He was chair of the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors from 2009 to March 2012 and currently works as a companion animal behaviour consultant, being an independently vetted member of the UK Register of Expert Witnesses since 2008.

David has appeared in the internationally scheduled television series ‘Crimefighters’ focusing on his remarkable and fascinating work with police dogs, and as a guest on the BBC 4 programme “It’s only a theory”, discussing how dogs have evolved to bark. His dog behaviour articles have appeared in publications as diverse as the Daily Telegraph, Woman’s Own, Your Dog and Veterinary Times.

He has been invited at various times to lecture to the Companion Animal Behaviour Therapy Study Group, BSc Animal Behaviour Students at Bishop Burton College and Myerscough College, and Pet Rescue/rehoming Centres, including Battersea Dogs and Cats Home, Merseyside Dogs Trust and Wood Green Animal Shelter. He is currently a guest lecturer on Newcastle University’s MSc in Applied Animal Behaviour and Welfare.

David’s unique blend of practical experience and theoretical knowledge of canine behaviour fuel his particular interest in inherited predatory motor patterns and the lengths to which pets will go to find a way to express them, usually despite their owners’ best efforts

Events - Positive Training for Canines

Books

Stop! How to control predatory Chasing in Dogs
by David Ryan

Chase! Managing Your Dog's Predatory Instincts
By Clarissa Von Reinhardt

Total Recall
By Pippa Mattinson

Teach your Dog to Come When Called
By Erica Peachey

DVDs

Really Reliable Recall
by Leslie Nelson

Training the Recall
By Michael Ellis

Your clever dog: Getting your dog to come when called
by Sarah Whitehead

Does your dog whizz back to you as soon as you call his name?
Can you call him to you even when there are other dogs or distractions? Teaching your dog to come to you when you call is the cornerstone of training and the gateway to allowing him more freedom in the park.
If your dog has selective deafness, ignores you in the garden or the park, or would rather play with other dogs than come when you call, this specially designed training session is for you.
Ideal for starting out with puppies or rehomed dogs, and also for dogs that ignore you or are slow to come when called, despite previous training.
Including:
• How to know what’s rewarding for your dog and what’s not
• Five times when you shouldn’t call your dog!
• Using your voice to call versus using a whistle
• What to do if you call and your dog doesn’t come to you
The pack contains: A clicker, long line (worth £10), training manual, instructional DVD: 55 mins approx running time including Bonus trick, Bonus Training Session, Intro to Clicker Training, Q & A with Sarah

Website articles:

http://www.apdt.co.uk/documents/RECALL.pdf

http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/reliable_recall.pdf

Deposits into the Perfect Recall Account

List of Reinforcers

Distractions For Your Recall

Recall Collapse | Susan Garrett's Dog Training Blog

How to Create a Motivating Toy

http://www.cleverdogcompany.com/tl_files/factsheets/Training a whistle recall.pdf

Teaching Come « Ahimsa Dog Blog

How do I stop my dog chasing?

http://www.pawsitivelydogs.co.uk/recall.pdf

Train a

Teaching Your Dog to “Come When Called” | Animal Behavior and Medicine Blog | Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, MS

Become More Exciting Than a Squirrel: Teaching a Reliable Come When Called | Animal Behavior and Medicine Blog | Dr. Sophia Yin, DVM, MS
Thank you so much for all this information and not for making me feel like a complete failure!!

Dogless, our dog walker used to train guide dogs and is fantastic with him and i will speak with her about maybe organising some 1 on 1 with him outwith the daily looking after him....

Appreciate you both commenting thank you
 

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Thank you for your response.... yes we use a head collar and the results were amazing and that is why we now have such lovely lead walks. We can now walk without it too at times.

But even with it on and he sees a dog, he goes nuts. Hubby said yesterday folk with wee dogs picked them up to walk past him..... thats a terrible state to be in :nonod:

I do still use a longline on him for recall outwith the garden and will do until his recall is completely reliable.

We used to go to classes pre op but i can't see him being allowed in a class the way he is currently around other dogs....

Do you know what, he is a fabulous dog and such a fast learner - i just don't seem to be getting this bit right at all. :blush:
I attend a class every week, and there is one new dog there who takes excitable to a whole new level. ;)
Our trainers also have a dog-reactive class where they initially just observe what is happening from afar (there is a stage as it's a church hall) and only move into the actual class environment after they've been settled on the stage for a little while.

Terence is also very excitable around other dogs and sometimes his recall is a bit pants, but we are working on it, and are at that stage where he recalls well from dog that he knows. We have also got a Dogmatic (arrived at the weekend!!!) and I am hoping that will help when he goes into Kevin mode. It is hard, especially when they are strong and bouncy, but you will get there!

Good luck. :)
 

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You could be describing my Lab :D

I went through exactly the same things with Dexter, in fact we still have some of the same issues now.

A typical Lab LOVES meeting other dogs. You will find that as he gets older, he will calm down and will become more selective about which dogs he wants to play with. For now, as others have said, it's a recall issue.

I found the only thing which worked was using a high value treat (lots of them!) and turning recall into a game - when he reaches you, DON'T just hand over the reward. Throw it for him and tell him 'find' OR hide it in one fist and make him guess which fist the treat is in. Make it FUN.

Now, that being said, if we go to a new park where all the dogs are potential new best friends, I still keep Dex on a Flexi there until we have done some recall exercises etc.

As for your dog going mad when on lead and he sees other dogs - he may be, like mine, a FRUSTRATED GREETER. In other words, he gets wildly excited by the sight of other dogs and then frustrated because he can't actually reach them.

I have found training a solid 'watch me' really works. Get your boy to sit at the same time and that really helps.
 

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.

I found the only thing which worked was using a high value treat (lots of them!) and turning recall into a game - when he reaches you, DON'T just hand over the reward. Throw it for him and tell him 'find' OR hide it in one fist and make him guess which fist the treat is in. Make it FUN.
Oooh, haven't tried that one yet!!! Will try as soon as I'm well enough to get out and about! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I attend a class every week, and there is one new dog there who takes excitable to a whole new level. ;)
Our trainers also have a dog-reactive class where they initially just observe what is happening from afar (there is a stage as it's a church hall) and only move into the actual class environment after they've been settled on the stage for a little while.

Terence is also very excitable around other dogs and sometimes his recall is a bit pants, but we are working on it, and are at that stage where he recalls well from dog that he knows. We have also got a Dogmatic (arrived at the weekend!!!) and I am hoping that will help when he goes into Kevin mode. It is hard, especially when they are strong and bouncy, but you will get there!

Good luck. :)
This gives me hope thank you!!! Huby has agreed to try a class with him.... he is stronger than me to control him when super excited!! thank you
 

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Thank you for your response.... yes we use a head collar and the results were amazing and that is why we now have such lovely lead walks. We can now walk without it too at times.

But even with it on and he sees a dog, he goes nuts. Hubby said yesterday folk with wee dogs picked them up to walk past him..... thats a terrible state to be in :nonod:

I do still use a longline on him for recall outwith the garden and will do until his recall is completely reliable.

We used to go to classes pre op but i can't see him being allowed in a class the way he is currently around other dogs....

Do you know what, he is a fabulous dog and such a fast learner - i just don't seem to be getting this bit right at all. :blush:
My lab is the same and we started training classes for adolescent/ older dogs 2 weeks ago and the results are amazing- Charlie has gone from pulling me over into the mud when he sees a dog to lying down, collar and lead off, surrounded by 11 other dogs, while i walk away through the dogs and he stays!! In 2 classes!! Wish Id taken him a year ago :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My lab is the same and we started training classes for adolescent/ older dogs 2 weeks ago and the results are amazing- Charlie has gone from pulling me over into the mud when he sees a dog to lying down, collar and lead off, surrounded by 11 other dogs, while i walk away through the dogs and he stays!! In 2 classes!! Wish Id taken him a year ago :rolleyes:
Wow that's amazing and very encouraging!!!! Thank you for sharing xxxx
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
From what you're describing, I can't imagine many trainers who would tell you not to attend the classes. They are well used to dogs like ours. ;) xx
I wonder if perhaps the thought for me is just making me panic.... The shame of being chucked out a class lol. Will let hubby have the honour.

Needs to be done though xxxx
 

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I wonder if perhaps the thought for me is just making me panic.... The shame of being chucked out a class lol. Will let hubby have the honour.

Needs to be done though xxxx
I went to training classes before we moved and hated every second; once we moved I didn't go to any for 9 months or so because I was worried to go again - just when Kilo was at the age when he needed them. I finally plucked up the courage again about 4 months ago and am so pleased that I did - I am enjoying the new classes and we are doing well (touch wood!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I went to training classes before we moved and hated every second; once we moved I didn't go to any for 9 months or so because I was worried to go again - just when Kilo was at the age when he needed them. I finally plucked up the courage again about 4 months ago and am so pleased that I did - I am enjoying the new classes and we are doing well (touch wood!).
I can't tell you how much more positive i feel tonight after posting this and hearing all your responses.

Thank you all so much
 

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I can't tell you how much more positive i feel tonight after posting this and hearing all your responses.

Thank you all so much
You will never be the 'worst'...and if you are it will be someone else's turn the next week. No one else notices too much anyway - too busy working with their own dogs or if they do, they understand.
 

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If it's any consolation, Dexter and I disrupted every single class we tried :eek:

The key thing is to find a trainer who uses positive methods and who understands reactive dogs. Might be worth going to watch various classes first before taking your dog along.

If your dog is reactive, I personally would advise against any class which has a lot of dogs crammed together in a small hall.
 
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