Hi Gavs, You posted on an old thread asking a question and the age of the thread got mentioned more than you got advice so I am starting this thread for you to help you out with everyone's hints and tips. Here is the techique I use to give you some ideas. I am sure folk will eb along with their methods and then you just choose one that you are comfortable with but DO NOT chop and change the methods. Decide on one and stick with it or all you will do is confuse the dog. It might not sink in over night or over a week but done consistantly it will start to get through and then you have the building blocks to go on further. Loose leash walking is a tough one as you seem to take ages to get anywhere physically so you need to think of it in time and not distance when training this. It may take you 20mins to walk 10yrs exactly how you want the dog to walk but that is 10yrds you didnt have before. So think of time and not distance. Here are a couple of methods so you can see which Jay finds the best. Your dog pulls for one reason and one reason only - it wants to get to something as quickly as possible. If you allow the pulling and go along with the dog pulling, the dogs gets to what it wants on its own terms so is rewarded for pulling. This makes the dog pull harder. There is a £20 note nailed to a fence 50yards away from you. You can't get to it because you are tied to a heavy tire unless you pull. You pull that tyre with all of your mite and get the reward of the £20. Now you are tied to something that will not move unless you are at the side of it, the £20 note is 400yards away and you have 20mins to get to it - plenty of time. If you pull on the lead or get too far in front the object locks down and will not move no matter how much you pull. Once you stop pulling and go back to the contraption it delivers a £1 coin to you and allows you to move towards the £20 note. Now the £20 note is 400yards away, you are tied to the same contraption but you only have 8mins to get to it. The contraption will lock down completely unless you are at the side of it at all times. Now you have been trained to walk to heel to get your reward. That is what you do with your dog. If they pull then stop. Lock the lead down - don't pull them back, and wait. You may get stuck like that for a while to begin with as the dog is used to pulling to get it's reward. The lead will be tight because the dog is pulling against you. After a while the dog will work out "Well my neck is hurting, I am not getting to where I want to get to so what's the point in pulling?" It will either take a few steps back, sit or lay down. "Good dog!" - throw it a treat and verbally praise. It has worked out that it will get nowhere by pulling. Do this a few times but then start to withhold the treat until the dog expectantly wonders why it hasn't got a treat so makes it way back to you after stopping pulling. "Good dog! - treat and praise verbally or physically if the dog is close to you. You can start with a full lead out, half your lead length or hardly any lead at all but every time the dog has pulled and you have stopped you must wait for the dog to work out it isn't going anywhere or it won't get what you are trying to achieve as fast. Every time you want to set off walking again then work your way up the lead to the dog until you are beside it. Then give your instruction to walk on whatever you want. Only use your "Heel" (choose whatever word you want. I use "Slowly") command when the dog is in the position you want it to be. No point saying heel only for the dog to belt to the end of the leash and start pulling again. You may find that your dog will pull towards the target for a bit but then come back to you instead of just taking the tension off the line. If so then that is a bonus as it eliminates a few steps and a fare bit of time. Only reward a slack lead and any lead tension means you stop and ignore. Takes a few sessions but you have a dog that realises there is no point pulling for anything as it won't get the reward it wants on its own terms. Another method: Get yourself some really good treats such as cooked chicken pieces or whatever you can. Trying to do this when the dog is first let out of the house or car is ridiculous and shouldn't be tempted so carry on until your dog has had a decent length of walk or a run around and is a bit more calmer and focused. Put the lead on the dog and get him to sit. Treat. Walk around so you are in front of him facing him. Put a treat under his nose and coax him towards you as you walk backwards. as he walks a couple of paces then treat. Now he won't walk past the treat so you are rewarding him for walking calmly essentially. Now get him to walk 5 paces holding the treat in front of his nose before treating. Then ten paces. All the time you are walking backwards facing him so you can keep an eye on him. Keep upping the distance gradually. Once you can go 30paces it is time to drop the lure of the treat. Get him to sit in front of you again. This time just hold the treat in your hand but dont put it near the dog. Start walking backwards. As soon as he has walked 3paces calmly then treat - this will happen in about 2secs so be prepared Get him to do it again and again and again. Now up the challenge and only reward him for walking 5paces calmly. If he tries to rush or anything because you are facing him you are in the prime position for holding out a hand, palm facing him like you would stop traffic and saying "No!" to control him. He will get the idea that if he rushes he gets no reward but if he walks calmly he does. So you can now walk 5paces calmly. Up the challenge to 10 paces calmly before treating. Work your way up to 30 paces again. Now you are going to add a cue. You might use "Heel" or whatever, I use "slowly" as it does what is says on the tin and it sounds like what it means. Go back to 3paces again but this time just before you start to move backwards away from your dog give the cue - "Slowly". Treat for achievement. Work your way all the way up to 30paces again. Now go back to 3paces but this time you are going to walk sideways alongside your dog so "Sit", "Slowly", 3 paces and "Good dog" with treat. Now 5 paces, 10 paces and up to 30. Now back to 3 paces but you are going to start with your dog alongside you and both facing the same way. The treat needs to go in the hand on whichever side the dog is on - dog on left, treat in left and lead in right going across your body. Now there is nothing really to acts as a blockage for the dog so start with the cue - "Slowly", the treat on the end of his nose again and work your way up to 30paces walking alongside you. Test him and do a few more at 30 paces or even up it to 50 or 70 paces. Now take the lure away from the end of his nose and cue - "Slowly", walk 5 paces without the lure and treat for walking nicely. If he runs of then do as my original post said and just stop, call him back to you, treat at the end of the nose again and go for 10 paces. The stop and the treat only for walking nicely hit home fast - "I go nowhere if I go out in front and yet I get a reward for being there. I either lose in front or I gain being there". It's a no brainer for the dog. Hope that makes sense. I have attached a document I wrote for a new dog owner and there might be one or two things in there you will find interesting and can use.