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Integrating Rescue Kitten

1K views 25 replies 3 participants last post by  loftybloke 
#1 ·
Hi All

I'm looking for some advice on our situation. We have three 4 year old cats, two torties and a black male from the same litter. One of the torties is a lot smaller and is more quiet/shy/independant. They all get along very well, and chase/play/eat/sleep together.

We recently found a 10 week old kitten under the bush in our yard and haven't been able to find the owners after 5 weeks, no microchip, no response to posters, no one called local vets asking about him. We have decided to keep the kitten and he has been living in our bathroom since we found him.

Two of our cats have responded well to scent swapping and face to face meetings and both are very interested in sniffing through the bathroom door and lick/nuzzle him when we have tried face to face meetings. The smaller/shier girl however has no interest in meeting the kitten and simply removes herself from the situation when he is around and isn't interested in meeting him. If we bring the kitten to her, she slow blinks at him but eventually slinks away and goes elsewhere. I think if he blinked back i would make a difference but he doesn't seem to understand that part of being a cat.

If it were just the two existing cats, we would be happy to let the kitten roam free with them by now, as they would hiss/growl if he got too annoying and hopefully he would learn boundaries. We are reluctant to let him loose whilst our smaller cat is still so reluctant/scared.

Can anyone suggest anything we could try to help her?
We have Felliway friends plugged in to try and help

Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
After doing some reading it seems as though getting him spayed will help, and he is going to the vet on Friday so hopefully some more introductions this weekend will be successful.

It's getting to the stage now where him being in the bathroom is more than a hindrance so we might be letting him out to roam free with the others as well this weekend. I'm still very worried about our shy cat though :(
 
#3 ·
If your kitten is around 16 weeks old then it is very possible he is approaching sexual maturity and therefore he is old enough to be neutered.

If your shy 4 yr old female has suddenly become wary of him it's possible she senses the onset of his sexual maturity. But if she has been wary of him since he arrived in your home at the age of 10 weeks then her reluctance to engage with him is a territorial issue. A strange kitten has entered her territory and wants to share her resources and she finds that intimidating. She would probably feel the same if the kitten was a female.

Your scared female has been used to sharing her home with two cats, but the important fact is she grew up with them, from birth. So your 3 cats are all in the same social group, which means they are more likely to be comfortable sharing territory and resources with each other. A strange kitten coming in to the home is not a member of your cats' social group, so he is seen as an intruder, an interloper who is there against the wishes of your 3 cats. Most cats do not like sharing their resources with strange cats or kittens.

It is possible to integrate a new kitten (or kittens) with resident cats - I have done so successfully myself on several occasions over the years. But it can take time, patience and intuition to do the introductions in a way that minimises the stress to the resident cats and the new kitten. I use the screen door method and it has always worked well. This means fitting an inexpensive temporary hinged screen in the door way of the kitten's safe room and putting the kitten in there with his litter trays, food etc. A bathroom is too small for the purpose, as he needs room to run around, play, climb, and space for you to spend lots of time keeping him company and playing with him. A bedroom is often a good size for the purpose.

The screen door gives all the cats the opportunity to get the measure of the kitten at their own pace and decide in their own time whether they can accept him as a housemate. The cats and the kitten can see and smell each other through the screen without having direct contact. This is less threatening for everyone, and stress levels are kept to a minimum.

Cats, as you know, are very much creatures of habit, they have have their routines which give them reassurance and confidence. They don't like change. However, cats are actually quite adaptable creatures and given the time they need to process new information, they can accept changes. But they must not be rushed. So it is possible your scared cat could eventually accept the kitten, if you allow her the time she needs.

It may take a few weeks before your shy cat even feels confident enough to look at the kitten through the screen, but she will eventually. Once the cats and the kitten are all able to sit and look at each other calmly through the screen, that is the time to move to the next stage which is allowing the kitten short periods of time out of his safe room so he can have direct face to face contact with your 3 resident cats.

These meetings should always be under your close supervision and you should not allow ANY chasing or fighting. Any hostility and the kitten goes back into his safe room for the day and you try again next day. The cats and the kitten do not yet know each other well enough to play.

Train your shy girl to jump up on a cat tree, shelf or worktop, if she wants to avoid the kitten once he is roaming the house. Always support and comfort the shy girl if the kitten scares her. She needs to know she can count on your loyalty.

Ensure you have added lots of extra resources so the cats feel less sense of competition with the new kitten. This means extra litter trays - 5 is the minimum required for 4 cats if they all toilet indoors.

Food is a major resource and as the kitten is not a member of the other 4 cats' social group, he should have his own separate feeding station permanently. Do not allow him to share the other cats' feeding bowls or to steal their food. Once he is released from his safe room his feeding station should be at least 10 ft apart from where the other cats eat and preferably at a different height.

Scratch posts, cat beds, toys should all be multiplied considerably to reduce competition for resources.

Good luck. :)

EDIT: you may find a Pet Remedy diffuser helpful to have in the home too. Most cats find it calming.
 
#4 ·
Thank you very much for the detailed response. We will keep trying with our shy girl, the other two cats are happy seeing him from a distance. I hadn't thought about a completely separate feeding station for the kitten, does this mean we will have to stop the existing three grazing on biscuits between wet meals as they are currently allowed to do?

Hoping for his boisterousness to calm a bit once he has been fixed on Friday, which I guess will also help with our shy cat. She is very precious about many things and I suppose its partly my fault for indulging her with it all, but she does get pushed out of group games by the other larger cats, as well as being pushed off her food if we aren't watching.

The existing 3 cats have 4 litter trays and the kitten has his own, so that should be sufficient. We unfortunately don't have a room other than the bathroom to keep the kitten in but we play with a fishing rod type toy with him and he has balls with rattles which he loves to chase around. I do feel ever so guilty now you mention that the room might not be big enough, more reason to get him out of there ASAP I suppose to make up for the time stuck in there.

Lastly, we are trying to move our bedroom (no cats allowed in there currently) out of the loft which is the largest room in the house into a smaller room so that more cats have more room to co-exist and I suppose separate themselves from eachother if need be.

Thanks again for all your advice!
 
#9 ·
Hi again everyone.

I was speaking to the vet after new boy (Flóki) went to be castrated and had his stitches out (I know stitches are unusual for male cats being neutered, but his equipment hadn't descended and the vet didn't think it was going to after 17-18weeks, so went in to snip them), and explained the situation with Shinji and Rei being relatively suceptible to a new friend and Asuka being pretty scared, and she advised maybe letting him out for supervised contact so everyone can establish themselves.

Shinji (large male) is being really good at teaching Flóki the ropes, and hissing/growling when he does things that aren't ok to do. Flóki has learned that these things aren't acceptable and hesitates before he tries it with Rei (4kg or so female), so this is definitely pleasing. There are still alot of hisses and running away from the annoying kitten at this stage though which I think is understandable.

The problem that we are still having though is that Asuka (small shy girl) retreats to her 'hiding from the vac' spot on the kitchen window sill whenever Flóki is out of his separate room. We have been 'showing' Flóki to her and she blinks at him, but he doesn't blink back as i don't think he knows what it means. Once we hold him close enough though she starts to growl so we stop.

I'm really quite worried that she is so stressed out while everyone else seems willing to give it a go. We have a Felliway friends and a Pet Remedy diffuser plugged in on each of the the two floor of the house that the cats are allowed to be in.

Can anyone please suggest anything else we can try?

Thanks very much
 
#7 ·
@loftybloke - lovely cats and very cute kitten. :)

If your shy cat is being pushed off her food unless you're there to protect her, it's vital for her to feel much more confident about her food resources, particularly as you are trying to introduce the 4th cat to the group. Therefore I advise buying her a microchipped feeder, and also give her own feeding station away from the other cats, and away from the kitten. I promise you that really wouldn't be indulging her, but recognising her needs.

Cheapest feeder at present is £69.99 from amazon - worth every penny. I have 5 of these feeders for my cats and they are boon in a multicat household. So much negative tension in multicat households is centred around food resources and it is up to us humans to find ways to reduce the tension.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SureFeed-5...sr=8-1&keywords=surefeed+microchip+pet+feeder

Having a kitten neutered does not usually make them any less boisterous. All it does it prevent unwanted sexually driven behaviours developing, such as indoor spraying. Many kittens are just naturally full of beans. :) . But in any case it will take several weeks for his hormone levels to fall after the op, so don't expect to see any difference at all in him for a while.
 
#10 ·
Hi there. I am pleased to hear you are making progress with the introductions of Floki to Shinji and Rei. Sorry to hear that Asuka is still finding it difficult.

One thing that is very important is not to pick up Floki and 'show' him to Asuka. Asuka will find it threatening and intimidating to have Floki brought to her. It is vital that Asuka is allowed to approach Floki in her own time, at her own pace, or she may always be fearful or wary of him.

Cats take time to process new information, especially if they are fearful. Asuka has be given the autonomy to decide for herself how she wants to deal with the intrusion into her life of Floki. You can help by giving her your support and comfort when she is upset and stressed. If she decides to accept Floki it may take several months or even longer.

It may even be the case that Asuka will never get on with Floki. We cannot force our cats to get on with every cat we bring into the home. Just as humans have their preferences for certain other humans, cats will not get on with every cat they meet, particularly if they are expected to share their home with them.

Perhaps in time, as Floki grows up, Asuka may find a way of learning to live with Floki, mainly by keeping out of his way. Therefore it is important that Asuka has several places made available to her in the house where she can go to get away from Floki when she wants to. Perhaps even give her a room she can go where Floki can't follow her (i.e. fit a microchipped cat flap to the room door, so only 3 adult cats have access, not Floki).

Meanwhile I would give Asuka a course of Zylkene, which is a calming natural supplement that really helps reduce anxiety levels. We use it a lot at the Shelter when we are integrating new cats. The contents of one 75 mg capsule a day, mixed into her food. Continue for a month, and then review. It can be given longer if required.

Zylkene capsules can be bought from Pets at Home, or online from amazon or from pet pharmacies:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8...targid=kwd-10670832933&ref=pd_sl_15ay5ncsm8_e
 
#11 ·
Hi :)

thanks again for the good advice. We will stop doing that, good intentions and all, but if it's hindering rather than helping we will leave her to decide for herself about having a look at him etc.
Maybe leave it for a week or so of supervised intros before we thing about any medication though I think.

Flóki still very aggressive, especially with poor Rei who doesn't really want to hiss at him it seems, so he ends up biting her a fair bit until she reaches a limit and squalls/hisses...
We are going to grab him a wrestling type toy today so he can take out some aggression on it rather than saving it for when he meets the big cats.

Early days yet, though I hope he starts to calm down a bit/learns when to stop soon :(

Thanks again, you've been a great help with all of this
Lofty
 
#12 ·
Hi again, very happy to be of help. :)

It will take a few weeks for Floki's hormone levels to fall, following his castration. It is likely that his aggressive behaviour to Rei is hormonal (even though she is spayed). If he is jumping on Rei, pinning her down and/or biting her in the neck, that is the kind of quasi-sexual behaviour I mean.

I didn't realise Floki is being that aggressive to Rei. It must be annoying and unpleasant for her. If Asuka has observed him behaving like that to Rei it will have added to her fear of him. Even more important she has places she can go, to get away from him.

I would intervene when Floki exhibits aggressive behaviour to Rei. I don't mean tell him off, but distract him, or pick Rei up and put her on a cat tree or table, as a way of breaking the tension, and comfort her. If he is allowed to continue behaving this way to Rei there is a risk this quasi-sexual behaviour will become a lifelong habit and it would be unpleasant for Rei to have to live with that.

Can I please stress that Zyklene is not a medicine. It is a supplement, a natural byproduct of milk, and does not cause sleepiness or any suppression of character. It is excellent at calming anxiety and promoting confidence in timid cats.

By contrast Pet Remedy contains valerian which is quite a strong sedative. I am not saying don't use Pet Remedy, because it does have its uses in some circumstances for calming a multicat household. But the Zylkene supplement would be specifically to help dear Asuka with her anxiety.

Zylkene may not result in Asuka being straight away ready to accept Floki, but that would not be its primary purpose, which would be to reduce her stress levels. I do think this is important as untreated stress can be damaging to a cat's physical and emotional health. The secondary effect may be that Asuka might feel more comfortable around Floki.
 
#13 ·
Now that you mention it, I did wonder if it looked as though he was trying to mount Rei. We will keep an even closer eye on his behaviour during supervised meetings.

It feels like we are doing everything wrong at the minute, I can't help but feel a bit of despair thinking of the next and subsequent meetings. All we wanted to do was give a poor stray a home. I will post back again this evening/tomorrow once they have had more contact.

Thank you for explaining more about the Zylkene, I'll speak with my wife about it later on. Neither of us are under the impression that Asuka and Flóki will ever by best friends, but tolerance eventually would be all we would ask of the situation.

Thank you :)
 
#14 ·
Please don't despair, integrations can take time, and the more cats you have the longer it can take. I am not saying this to put you off, but just to give you an idea of the kind of time frame that may be needed. It took me 4 months to even be able to allow my two girls (as kittens) to have direct contact with my 2 neutered adult males. And a year before I could leave them unsupervised together.

Also, I have found a stray cat can be harder to integrate with resident cats. Probably because a stray has had to fend for themselves and as a result their 'wilder' side has had to surface in order for them to survive on their own in the world. So an ex-stray has become very protective of their resources and doesn't want to share them with other cats.

I have had success in the past with integrating one stray female cat with my resident cats but have to say honestly, it did take longer. Sadly I was unsuccessful integrating a stray male, and had to rehome him, but he was an adult, not a kitten like Floki.

I promise, you are not doing everything wrong, you have already made progress with Shinji and Floki :) Females are often harder to 'talk round' :)
 
#15 ·
Thanks :) It isn't really the time that's the issue, it just feels as though we are tormenting both the residents and the new boy at times.

He is very keen to get out of his sanctuary room (upgraded from bathroom to our front room) and he plucks the carpet at the door (which has glass panels) so badly that the door wouldn't open yesterday because of the pulled up carpet behind it, I had to push it down from the other side with a butter knife...

I suppose the Tortitude won't help us very much either :p

I think in light of the way he is pinning Rei, we will go back to scent swapping, feeding by the door to his room for a while, until his hormones have subsided a bit more. Although I'm not sure he will be too happy/any less frustrated by any of that.

We all appreciate your support and advice :)
 
#16 ·
I understand what you mean about fearing you are tormenting the new boy as well as the resident cats.

Floki does sound quite aggressive and agitated for such a young cat. Usually they are more adaptable if they are integrated at his age. Was it his mum who was a stray with a litter of kittens (inc Floki) when she was rescued? Do you know how old Floki was when rescued?

I find it can be useful to set a date, say 3 months ahead, (or less if you prefer) and mark it on the calendar, as a date for reviewing the integration progress. If there is not much improvement in the relationships by then, it may be better to re-home Loki, perhaps to live as a solo cat. He may be happier that way.

I think it must be frustrating for him to be shut in his safe room now he has been used to having access to other parts of the house. Does he get on well enough with Shinji now for them to be shut in the room together perhaps? You mentioned that Shinji growls at him sometimes, can you give an example of the circumstances? Growling is quite unusual from an adult to a kitten if they are basically getting on OK.

To save your carpet from claw damage you can buy rolls of heavy duty vinyl carpet protector. Put a piece under the door of Loki's safe room, both sides. Extend it into the room a few feet on his side and stick down edges with double sided tape. Cut the sides of the vinyl to fit the shape of the doorway.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Vinyl-Plastic-Carpet-Protector-Runner-Office-Hallway-Film-Mat-Roll/232453269607?_trkparms=aid=555019&algo=PL.BANDIT&ao=1&asc=20151005190705&meid=bd18c3272006411296daecf364074da3&pid=100506&rk=1&rkt=1&&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Double-S...hash=item2f0331526c:m:muiCHVXmackKO5weOhjyDhA
 
#17 · (Edited)
EDITED WITH MORE DETAIL

We found Flóki hiding in a bush in our yard on the 2nd October. The vet estimated him to be around 10 weeks old. We left him out there overnight hoping he might find his way home or work out where he was but he was still there the next morning drenched and cold so we gave him some biscuits and took him to the vet. We put posters up, asked around the neighbours, checked for a microchip, spoke to both local vets, shared on local missing pet groups and a month later decided to keep him as cats protection etc couldn't take him.

Shinji either follows the little guy around because he is interested in him and wants to investigate/sniff/lick him or sits himself down next to him and growls. There aren't any more specific cases I could give. We just chalked it down to Shinji being fed up and wanting his own space back.They definitely wouldn't be able to share a room unsupervised.

Flóki is definitely frustrated but we bought him a wrestling type toy today which he has been chewing and bunny kicking all evening so I guess that's good for now.

The state of the carpet isn't really a concern as much as the well being of everyone to be honest :)
Although having re-read your reply on a computer screen rather than my phone, I understand the method you describe with the carpet protector allowing the door to always open, thank you :)
 
#18 ·
As Floki is only a young kitten I am thinking some of his aggression may be due to frustration at wanting to play with your adult cats and them (understandably) not wanting to be bothered by him.

Kittens can be quite rough in their play with other kittens of a similar age, but adult cats may not appreciate it when such roughness is directed at them, even by a kitten.

Do you see calmer, less aggressive behaviour from Floki if you play with him a lot yourselves, for several hours a day, divided into periods of about 30 minutes a time? Do you get him running and leaping after rod toys such as the Purrs in Our Hearts toys? Those toys use up a lot of a kitten's energy.

https://www.purrsinourhearts.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=423

Also, plenty of safe places to climb will help keep Floki entertained. These ceiling high climbing posts are wonderful but very expensive. If you are good at DIY you could maybe make something similar at a fraction of the cost. One of our members made one using the rigid inner cardboard tube from a roll of carpet, put carpet off cut around the pole and fixed the carpet into place using industrial staples and No More Nails Glue. Then wedged it under the ceiling. Place a cat tree next to it so Floki has a safe way down.

https://www.hicat.co.uk/
 
#19 ·
We try to give him a lot of attention and at least two play times each evening, so we are trying to tire him out :)
Without making excuses, it's sometimes hard to fit everything with the commute from work, cooking washing up and prepping lunches for the next day etc, but we do try to play with wand toys and rattling ball toys that he loves to bat about and chase.

Reading back through this thread it seems like I'm bringing lots of problems for advice, but I promise we are trying :)

We were looking to buy another cat tree for when the new boy joins the others, so maybe we will try and get one this weekend to keep him more entertained.
He definitely is rough in his play, and I totally agree that this is probably why the big cats are less tolerant of him than is ideal.
We will try and up the amount of time we spend tiring him out, for everyone's benefit!

Thanks from all of us
 
#20 ·
Quick Update on our dear beasites :)

We got a climbing tree/scratching post thing for Flóki and have doubled his playtimes. We sit with him for an hour whilst we eat our evening meal, and play with his flicky toy. Then we spend time with the big cats, and do our washing up/ food prep for the next days lunches plus what games they deign to join in with and sit in the study, then a last half an hour with Flóki before lights off.

We also have a carpet protector thing which I cut to size to stop him trapping himself in the room with plucked up carpet.

Perhaps the biggest news though is that our nervous little Asuka is sometimes brave enough to peep into the corridor where the door to Flóki's room is. Although if she thinks we are watching she will slink away quick sharp. She still won't eat treats anywhere other than her customary perch on the kitchen surface (sigh), so trying to feed her near his door isn't an option, but I think this is a good sign.

We were going to try and let him out with them again this weekend as it's been two weeks since his op (feels like an age has passed) and he seems less aggressive etc so hopefully his hormones are calming down more. In light of Asuka's behaviour through we will continue to keep him separate so hat she can get more brave as the weeks progress.

Flóki is still bitey with my wife, but Shinji was also like this, though neither of them did/do this with me. To be fair to him he lives in a house full of cats but is alone most of the time. I feel very sorry for him, and cant help but allow for some aggression through frustration :)

He continues to be a very loving/active/charming youg thing, and Asuka is a lot less nervous in her own home, since he doesn't come out of his room every evening, so i think this is good for her getting used to the idea again?

Thanks
Lofty
 
#21 ·
Sounds as though progress is being made Lofty :) Asuka probably feels much safer with Floki shut away - i.e. she knows he is there, but he can't pester her.

When you try allowing the cats together this weekend I'd make it a short period of time, too short for things to go wrong. Success will give some positive associations to the cats and you can gradually build on that.

Good luck! :)
 
#23 ·
Hi Again :)

We have been allowing Flóki out in the evenings this week to start letting them all get used to each other again. Rei is happy for him to be out, and doesn't really acknowledge him. Flóki however is still very much interested in play fighting and attacks both Rei and Shinji a lot. Shinji deals with this the best with a loud hiss and a few smacks to the nose, Rei though hisses a little bit and then makes growly noises as he bites her and tries to play fight.

Asuka is still hiding away as soon as she knows he is out.

I'm a bit lost again to be honest, I don't know what to try so that he won't attack them all the time

Cheers
 
#25 · (Edited)
Also when this happens we separate them, and if he does it again we pop him back into the living room. Sometimes after he is back in his own room, he does a bit of panting, as does Rei. I understand this to be a stress thing?
I am sorry to hear you are still having the same problems with integrating Floki. I don't like the thought of Floki and Rei panting after an encounter, as it's the sign of them both being very distressed. It is not a good idea for such stress levels to continue.

I'm also worried to hear that Asuka's still hiding away every time Floki is out of his safe room. It doesn't sound as though any progress is being made in that quarter. Asuka is evidently not willing to engage with Floki at all, and I can't see that really changing now. Cats fall into a pattern of behaviour with their feline housemates and after a while it can be hard to change these patterns. For Asuka to feel the need to hide away shows she must also be feeling anxious and distressed.

Reading your latest update it seems you might have reached a point where the stark choice may be
either that Floki needs to live separately from your other cats, having no contact with them, or that Floki is rehomed.

However before you reach a decision about Floki's future, the best advice I can give you now is to obtain advice and support from a professional cat behaviourist. This is something I urge you to consider. The behaviourist would come to your home, observe how the cats interact with each other, and advise strategies for you to try. In a fraught situation like your current one it can be very useful for a behaviourist to observe the cats in their own home.

If you have pet insurance you will be covered for advice from a behaviourist providing a vet makes the referral. (Note - you are free to choose your own behaviourist, so go for the best). If you are not insured expect to pay around £100 per home visit. (you may only need one visit, the follow-ups could be done by phone at a lower cost).

These are some cat behaviourists / organisations I can recommend, as I know them to be reputable and effective.

http://www.vickyhalls.net/

Vicky Halls is one of the best cat behaviourists in the UK. She has written several books on the subject which are sold on amazon.

http://www.apbc.org.uk/

http://capbt.org/findabehaviourist.php

I wish you the best in resolving this, so far incalcitrant, problem. Please let us know how things go. :) ,
 
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