
03-09-2010, 09:55 PM
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Chillinator's do's and don'ts of fishkeeping
- Don't buy fish for the sole purpose of controlling algae. Algal growth feeds on excess nutrients. By adding more fish, you are in effect adding more nutrients, thus feeding more algae. Fast-growing stem plants and adequate tank maintenance are the only long-term methods of keeping algae in check.
- Do research any desired fish before buying them, and don't buy on impulse. If you don't know anything about it, don't buy it!
- Do take precautions to protect electrical sockets from splashes of water.
- Do cycle the filter before stocking the aquarium with fish. It may be a long process, but it's worth the wait. By rushing, you'll fail miserably.
- Don't support the trade of dyed fish by buying them.
- Don't fall into the aquatic or pet store trap where the staff try to sell you products to supposedly rectify problems, particularly problems with poor water quality. It's important to get down to the source of the problem and work from there. Quick fixes such as chemicals will only mask a problem that still exists.
- Do ensure that aquariums are properly supported by a suitable cabinet or stand. One litre of pure water weighs 1kg, so the water in a full 100 litre tank will weigh 100kg excluding the aquarium glass, substrate and decor.
- Don't treat fish as disposable, they are living organisms and should be treated as such.
- Don't play around fish that are likely to bite or are potentially venomous. Venomous species in particular should always be treated with great respect. If you are stung, rinse the affected area under hot water and seek prompt medical attention. The heat from the water will denature (break-down) the protein in the venom and reduce the pain.
- Don't buy 'tank-busting' fish unless you can house them in the long term. Fish do not grow to the size of their tanks, any such effect is purely down to stunting and poor water quality. If you have the room for large fish, consider re-homing unwanted specimens, rather than buying from an aquatic store.
- Don't release fish into the wild. Not only is this illegal and carries a hefty fine, by releasing fish you also run the risk of introducing foreign pathogens into natural waterways. This could have drastic consequences for our native fauna and flora.
- Don't flush dead fish. Pathogenic bacteria can remain in the dead corpse of a fish for hours, and you could inadvertently introduce harmful aquatic diseases into natural waterways. Dispose of dead fish by either burying them or sealing them inside a plastic bag and placing them in the trash.
- Do quarantine new fish after buying them. A period of quarantine will allow any diseases to show themselves, giving you time to treat any affected fish and preventing any pathogens from entering the main aquarium. Quarantine conditions need not be fancy, for smaller fish a small tank with a simple sponge filter, a heater and some artificial shelter will be absolutely fine.
- Do trim back the roots of new plants, as this will encourage new growth.
- Don't use automatic fish feeders or feeding blocks whilst away from home. Automatic fish feeders tend to clog due to moisture from the aquarium soaking the food in the chambers. Feeding blocks are rarely consumed by fish, and will only end up dissolving and polluting the water. Well fed fish can go for weeks without food.
- Do try to choose low-wattage fishkeeping equipment, as this will reduce your electricity consumption and help the environment. Advances in technology have reduced the price of economical gear.
- Do vary the diet! Don't just feed fish on dry foods, give some live and frozen offerings such as bloodworm, daphnia, brineshrimp, earthworms and whiteworms. Predatory and certain marine species love nothing more than whitefish and the meat from shellfish. Marine puffers will appreciate whole shellfish with the shells intact. By offering a variety, you reduce the risk of the fish developing problems such as bloat and you will have a greater chance of success with breeding.
- Do invest in your own liquid test kit. The ability to test the water whenever is a huge bonus over taking a sample of the aquarium water to an aquatic store for testing, and it will probably work out cheaper in the long-run.
- Don't use sharp substrates with bottom-dwellers, as their delicate mouthparts are easily damaged by abrasive substrates. Any damage could lead to infection.
- Do wash nets thoroughly if they are used between tanks. Or better still, keep one or two nets specifically for each tank. Allow nets to dry-off thoroughly before using them again.
- Do rinse any live plants to remove pest snail eggs. Dipping live plants in a solution of Potassium permanganate will eradicate the eggs of aquatic molluscs.
- Don't use copper medications if you are keeping aquatic invertebrates such as shrimp or crabs. Copper is lethal or these organisms and is often found in whitespot medications. On a similar note, don't use a tank that has been exposed to copper if you intend to keep aquatic inverts inside it, as the silicone seals can easily absorb copper and leach it back out into the water once the tank has been re-filled.
- Don't use bathroom or kitchen sealants when building or repairing an aquarium. These sealants usually contain fungicides which are toxic to fish and aquatic inverts. Use an aquarium-specific sealant instead.
Last edited by Chillinator; 18-10-2010 at 03:17 PM..
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