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Ferrets Discuss all topics related to Ferrets including health and nutrition, the care and wellbeing of Ferrets, breeding and all other aspects of owning a Ferret.

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Old 12-11-2011, 05:19 PM
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Ferret Care Guide (Revised)

Here is my revised care guide for Ferrets.

I see that a lot of people come on here asking for basic information on ferrets. I thought I would write what I know here, save you posting!

Ferrets
Ferrets are often considered rodents, but are in fact part of the mustlidae family, which also includes Badgers, Otters, Weasels, Stoats, Pine Martens and Mink.
Ferrets can make wonderful pets but also require quite a bit of specialist care.
Ferrets are so much fun, and never fail to make you laugh. Each have very individual characters and will keep you on your toes! They do have a musty smell, but most people don’t mind this. Ferrets are often called Fuzzies, Ferts, Fuzzbutts, Carpet Sharks and are essentially perpetual kittens!

Basic Ferret Facts
Entire Males: Hobs
Entire Females: Jills
Babies/Juveniles: Kits
Vasectomised Males: Hoblets
Castrated Males: Gibs
Castrated Females: Sprites
Group: Business
Average lifespan: 6-8 Years on average, can live to 10-12

Sourcing a ferret
Ferret Kits can often easily be sourced from newspaper classifieds and on websites such as Preloved or Pets4Homes. However, you may wish to try a rescue ferret. If you are a first time owner, I would suggest going to a rescue where you will get advice and be have help choosing ferrets right for you.
I'd personally suggest a pair of adult ferrets first, as kits need an awful lot of time for socialising, as well as needing to be ‘nip-trained’. Nip training is teaching ferrets not to bite or nip during play or handling.
There are a lot of ferret rescues, each with a lot of ferrets. When you get a ferret from rescue, you have lots of help and advice from the staff, as well as being able to choose a nip-trained ferret suitable for a first time owner.
Also, most are already neutered/microchipped/vaccinated.
You could also source a retired working ferret from a private rehome. These are normally wonderful first ferrets as they are well handled.
Another option is to buy a kit from a breeder. There are varied kinds of breeders, some working stock, some show stock, others just bred as pets, and some bred for the sake of breeding. Be sure that you are buying from a breeder who cares and loves for their ferrets and are breeding for the health and temprement.
When choosing a ferret, be honest about your experiance, confidence and knowledge. That way you can be helped to choose the right ferrets

Neuturing, Microchipping, Vaccinating and Health
Hobs can be okay to be left entire, but many people chose to have them castrated to reduce squabbles with cage mates, reduce some health risks, make them smell less and most obviously, to stop them mating with Jills.
Hobs can also be vasectomised.
Jills should be spayed unless being bred from. Jills come into season once a year, around March time, and will stay in season until mated. This can be very dangerous as the hormone oestrogen can cause the bone marrow to stop producing red blood cells, resulting in potentially fatal anaemia. If your Jill is not spayed, she can be bought out of season by taking her to the vet for a ‘jill jab’ or letting a vasectomised hob ‘mate’ her (but resulting in no babies). Jills can also have an 'implant' to stop her coming into season.
Personally, I think it is worth spaying her as mating can be stressful for a female, even with a vasectomised hob, and will be cheaper than annual jill jabs in the long run. It also reduces the risk of cancer in the reproductive sysetem.
Neuturing males and females too early can result in a higher risk of adrenal cancer. Personally, I'd not neuture either gender until 2.5/3 years of age. You can consult your vet for more information.

Ferrets can be microchipped and it is usually recommended. Ferrets are known houdinis and even the most careful owners can miss an escape route. If your ferret is microchipped, and escapes or gets lost, if someone finds her or she is handed into a rescue, she can be scanned and you can be contacted.

In UK ferrets can be vaccinated annually against Canine Distemper. In other countries they are also vaccinated against rabies.
The CDV Vaccine (Canine Distemper Virus) is liscensed for dogs, but not ferrets. There can be some reactions to the vaccine, however these are not common and a good ferret vet will ask you to stay for around 30mins after the vaccine to check that no reaction takes place.
There is currently (October/November 2011) a huge outbreak of CDV in ferrets. I made the descision to have my ferrets vaccinated and have no regrets. There is some question as to the effectiveness of vaccines. I have had no issues with third/half/full vial of Norbivac. Your ferret friendly vet will help you to decide.

Ferrets claws are always growing, like our nails, so require regular clipping. It is normally sufficient to trim them fortnightly.
Ferrets ears should also have their ears gently cleaned with a wet wipe or tissue with ear cleaning solution on. This removes any excess wax and dirt. I prefer not to use ear buds as these can accidently be pushed too far and damage the ear. They are also prone to ear mites and should be checked regularly for this.
They should also be treated regularly for parasites. I use Beaphar Spot on for Ferrets, Rats and Guinea Pigs twice/three times a year.

Housing
Ferrets can live happily indoors or outdoors. They should be kept in at least pairs as they are social animals. I personally keep mine outdoors, and find a trio works best with least squabbles.
Outdoor ferrets need plenty of floor space and the best accommodation is a converted shed with a run, or a dog kennel and run. This means there is lots of running space, as well as opportunities to climb.
Other good housing includes double/two tier hutches and large chicken coops with a run.

Indoor ferrets would love their own room, but as this is not always possible a very large indoor rabbit cage or large rat cage such as a Ferplast Furet Tower or Liberta Explorer will be sufficient. They must be allowed plenty of time to free range.

Make sure your ferrets have lots of places to curl up and sleep, such as a dome cat bed, a soft cat basket, hammocks, soft tunnels, even paper bags! Some people like to use hay or straw in a box for a bed, whereas others use a fleece blanket for them to curl up in. Another idea is a cushion cut open so they can sleep inside the filling.
They must also have fresh water available, usually in a rabbit bottle, or a bowl (some ferrets will splash around thinking it’s their own paddling pool!)
They also need some toys and a heavy food bowl.
Many ferrets are naturally clean and will choose a toilet corner. You can then pop a litter tray there, with newspaper, wood shavings or wood pellet cat litter in, which needs to be changed daily.
I don’t use any substrate on the floor.

Playtime/Exercise
Ferrets sleep for around 12-20 hours a day, and for the 4-12 hours they are awake, they are constantly on the go. They need lots of interaction with their cage mate(s) and their owner(s).
Toys in their cage could include tunnels, tubes, hessian sacks, carpet samples, cardboard boxes - they can find entertainment in the most simple of objects!
They may also like catnip mice, jingle balls, cotton reels, balled up socks, teddies, treat balls - anything they can carry round, throw at each other and ‘kill’!

Ferrets love to roam around and get into mischief. Mine love to come in the house and will run up and down stairs, under cupboards and return to their cages covered in fluff bunnies! However, they CAN and WILL get inside or on top of everything! Tia recently popped the pipe off the hoover and climbed inside the full hoover bag! Make sure you can make everything ferret proof, such as covering up gaps, blocking holes, closing doors etc.

Toys that ferrets can enjoy with their owners are cat toys on a string (should not be left alone with it as they can get tangled), wind up mice and squeaky toys.

Ferrets often become excited when playing and 'cluck and chook' and hop around, jump up, kick their legs, puff their tail and run round. This is nothing to worry about! It is called 'dooking' or war dance. It just means they are very excited and happy! Some ferrets may get over excited and nip your hands or feet. If you are nipped, squeal loudly, scruff your ferret and pop them into their hutch or cage for time out. They will soon learn that nipping = no play!

Ferrets also love to go for walks. Most ex working ferrets are used to wearing a harness and lead, and will happily visit local parks, county shows or woodlands with you! However, be prepared for a lot of people stopping you to talk about your ferret. Also, beware of dogs. Try to avoid areas where there will be lots of dog walkers, and if you see a dog, pick up your ferret and carry them close to you or even pop them into their travel bag if you have one with you. Make sure the harness is comfortable and a special ferret harness as they can wriggle out of most guinea pig/rabbit harnesses. I like the clip up 'H' harnesses best.

Ferret Diet
Ferrets can eat ferret kibble such as Ferret Feast, Chudleys Ferret Food, James Wellbeloved Ferret, Dr Johns, Vitalin, Select Science, Beaphar and Pets at Home Ferret Kibble. Along with this they should eat plenty of raw meat, as much as they will eat! This includes raw beef, lamb and chicken. Raw, whole chicken wings are very good as the bones help to clean their teeth.
Ferrets will also eat day old chicks (with egg sac removd as this could have gone bad and cause illness), mice, rats and small guinea pigs available frozen from pet stores.
You could also try feeding rabbit or wood pigeon, which can be bought from local gamekeepers.
They may also like a raw egg once a fortnight, but not more than that as it can cause baldness!
Ferrets are also partial to cat milk, wet cat food, live mealworms/crickets, Ferretone and Beaphar Malt Paste as treats.

Hopefully that has helped a little in your research for basic facts about ferrets and ferret care. I would suggest reading lots of books and seeking advice from ferret owners. A good book is Ferrets for Dummies, but it is American so some factors are slightly different.

Good Luck.

I am no expert, but this is what I do for my ferrets, and is information I have learned from ferret books, forums, visiting rescues and shows and researching. People keep ferrets differantly, and this is not the only right way of keeping ferrets.
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Last edited by Tapir; 12-11-2011 at 06:06 PM..
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:02 PM
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Re: Ferret Care Guide (Revised)

Absolutely flippin excellent post
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:04 PM
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Re: Ferret Care Guide (Revised)

awww thanks love. I did one about a year back but have since learnt a little more. I'm no expert but I can happily talk ferrets all day
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Old 25-11-2011, 07:48 PM
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Re: Ferret Care Guide (Revised)

the only thing id add is that a Jill will come into season twice a year if brought out, sometimes 3 times, I only had one Jill who came in 3 times last year (moonshine) but normally its only twice. However if she has a litter from the mating she will only come into season once
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Last edited by DKDREAM; 25-11-2011 at 07:51 PM..
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