Category:Reptile Breeds

From Pet Encyclopedia

Royal Python Caresheet

Latin and other names: Python Regius, Ball Python:-

The name often used by them and the american word for them is `ball python`...This name refers to the propensity of the species to coil into a tight ball when they feel threatened.

In the wild

Royal Pythons are found in west africa,their natural habitat is open forest or savanna grasslands,with low tree density.They are crepuscular, active around dawn and dusk They eat a variety of things in the wild from amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds to small mammals.

General Information

Size and Growth rate:- Hatchlings range from 10 inches-17 inches, Adults typically range from 3 - 5 feet in length, Though in the wild they have been recorded reaching more than 6 feet long. Lifespan:- A captive, Healthy Royal Python can live between 20 - 30 years, The oldest on record for a captive Royal Python is 47. Buying a Royal Python

Captive bred juveniles are the best choice for a first snake.The snake should have a rounded body,And shouldnt have a `pronounced` backbone or any rib definition.The skin should be clear and free from injuries or burns...always check the belly. If all of this appears to be ok, Ask to hold the snake, The snake should not be `cold`, If it is ,its likely the shop or breeder has cooled the snake ...They do this to aggressive snakes because the cold slows and calms them down , As soon as you get it at its right temperature it could be an agressive snake...it is a trick breeders have used before.They should be at the same temperature to you or slightly warmer.They should feel muscular to hold, Not limp.A good indication to a healthy Royal Python is to hold near the tail/bottom end of snake and the snake should be easily able to lift its head all the way to your hand, If it can it is in good shape.

Then follow these steps:-

1. With one hand, Hold the snake behind its head, While supporting its body on a table or use your other arm to hold it against your body.With the other hand, Gently pull the skin underneath the lower jaw to open the mouth of the snake.Look for a presence of bubbly mucus - which is a sign of respitory infection.

2. While you have got the mouth open, Look for signs of stomatitis, Areas of gums will be covered with `cheesy` looking matter.In some cases red,rew and injured areas will be evident.Avoid buying a snake with these symptoms.

3. Make sure the eyes are clear, If the Roayl Python is in shed eyes will appear cloudy or bluey.The eyes should not have any scaring on them.

4. Examine the vent (opening to the cloaca),The anal scale should be flat against the body and should be clear from fecal matter.

5. Check body for lumps, Check backbone, Gently rub along the spine, Any depressed areas could mean injury to the spine, Collapsed areas along the sides are signs of broken ribs.

6. Check for mites, Mites are tiny, Bead like athropods...They also look like sesame seeds.They are usually present in the rim of the eye and the eye itself.If the Royal Python is badly infested with mites, You will also see them on your hands and possibly small white flecks on the snakes skin, This is mite fecal matter.

Mites are a pain to treat and it can be an expensive job to get rid of them.If you have other snakes...DONT buy a snake with mites.Always wash your hands between handeling diffrent snakes.

[B]Taking your Royal Python home[/B]

If you have intentions to buy, Before you go to get your snake, You shoud prepare something to transport the snake in.You should try to lessen stress, You can use styrofoam coolers, Or a cardboard box.In cold weather or long journeys you should use a heatpack to provide heat, These are usually 5 pounds for a pack of 3 from boots and superdrug and other pharmacy places...They are used to treat backpain.Or you can order them over the internet from places like [URL="http://www.livefoodshop.co.uk"]www.livefoodshop.co.uk[/URL] and other reptile stores.Make sure you make a few air holes.You can also use an old pillow case, Tied securely for short journeys.

Checklist

Make sure you have the following before you bring the snake home:- Vivarium or housing-with either vivarium lock or secure lids Substrate - also see substrate later on in caresheet Heating and Lighting Thermostat and dimmer stats Hides Food Lightguard Thermometers

Housing

All housing wehter Vivarium, Plastic tub or tank needs to be secure...They are good escape artists. For a juvenile Royal Python the minimal size vivarium should be 18 inches long x 10 inches wide, For small adults, It shoud be atleast 24 inches long x 12 inches wide,Butlarger is better, For large adult Royals 36 inches long x 12 inches wide is minimum.However having a ft Royal in a 6ft vivarium will stress the snake out, And will probably stop feeding and can also become snappy and aggressive. Substrate

Newspaper is the easiest,cleanest and cheapest and good for monitering feces.You can also use Shredded Cypress bark, Aspen shavings, Orchid bark, But do not use anything with cedar in it, As cedar is toxic to reptiles, Word of warning.....Using these substrates could mean your snake ingests when feeding, Unless you feed in a seperate container.I personally reccomend newspaper.

Lighting

Snakes need 13-14 hours worth of light in the summer months and 10-11 in the wointer months and cooling period.If you are using a bulb to keep the ambient temperature right at night - use red bulbs as snakes cannot see red.For day time a standard bulb is ok.Be sure to use wire lightguards to protect against thermal burns. Heating Heatmats are mainly used, And canbe placed under the vivarium or inside...but you must use a thermostat, So you can monitor the temperature the heatmat is at, And prevent burns as heartmats can get really hot and does kill snakes. If you want to use ceramics instead of using a lightbulb, These are equally as effective.You will also need a guard around the ceramic bulb. You need a good thermometer, Either an analog or a digital thermometer, So you can keep an eye on the temperatures.These are a `must-have` to correctly monitor the right temperatures.For precise readings you can also use an infra-red temperature gun. Tempatures should be:80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C) during the day, with a basking spot of around 90 F (32 C). Night time temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24 C)

Dimmerstats:-

Dimmerstats are another option for heat control, They will monitor vivarium temperatures and increase or decrease temperatures as needed.

Water

Your Royal shoul always have access to clean, Fresh water, You can use pretty much anysize water bowl, Theymay even enjoy a soak in it from time to time..They do have a tendancy to use as a toilet, So keep an eye on it so you can clean it out.

Humidity

A quick spray once or twice a day should provide good humidity. When your snake is in shed, You need to up the humidity.Spagnum moss placed in a vibarium will provide extra humidity during the shedding process.If you dont provide extra humidity your snake will have a `bad shed`, So be sure to raise humidity during shed.

Hide box

Royal Pythons are secretive, Shy snakes and need to feel secure, So providing atleast one hide will make your snake feel safe and secure.You can use exo-terra caves whicjh canbe bought in reptile shops and also over the internet.Or you can use a cardboard box, The hide needs to be tight and secure.Cardboard boxes can be thrown away when soiled, Plastic ones are easy to clean, But cork bark and wooden hides can be hard to clean and can harbour fungus.Crumpling and balling newspaper and placing in the vivarium also makes the Snake feel secure...This is a good trick for non-feeders.

Cleaning

Spot clean in the vivarium daily,If using newspapersimply throw away and replace.Once a month- unless needed before- completely clean out the vivarium.Make up 10% bleach to 90% water and clean the vivarium, Wash with just water afterwards and allow to dry before putting the snake back in.Wash hide, Waterbowl and other accesories once a week to prevent bacterial build up.

Feeding

Royal Pythons eat mice and rats in captivity, And are easily bought from local reptile shops and some `good` petshops or over the internet from sites such as [URL="http://www.livefoodshop.co.uk"]www.livefoodshop.co.uk[/URL] .It is illegal to feed your snake live rodents, In extreme cases exceptions can be made in order to save the snakes life, But dont broadcast it if you need to do it.Feeding live can cause big injuries to your snake. A hatchling Royal Python will start on mouse `fluffs` and when adult should feed on adult medium/large rats.A general rule is you can feed a mouse or rat that is as wide as the widest part of the body and you can also go a `bit` bigger.It should leave a slight bulge in your snakes belly.Avoid feeding chicks as they lack nutrients, Also try and get your royal feeding on rats as soon as possible as they are more nutritious than mice.

Non-feeders and feeding tips

To encourage your Royal Python to feed, Try these tips:- Firstly make sure its fully defrosted, Warm the rodent either using a heatmat or by using a hairdryer. Try strike feeding using tongs or you can leave the rodent in the viv, and the snake can eat on its own. If your Royal Python is not feeding, Dont offer food for weeks, Then try again, Try feeding at night with all lights out and also leave the rodent in the vivarium overnight. Royals will often not feed when in the shed cycle, do not handle before/after feeding as this can also cause non-feeding and regurgetating. Tuna oil or tuna juice can also stimulate feeding...dip the rodent in the juice then offer to the snake.

Assist/Force feeding

Assist feeding or force feeding is a last resort option only, And only if your snake is loosing weight.Check your snakes temperatures,enviroment and general health before doing this, Also try and seek help of a snake keeper who is experienced at force feeding, Prior to trying on your own. You need a small `fuzzie` mouse, Defrosted in water - warm water.Small foreceps and a steady hand, Also a friend to help hold the snake might help.

To assist feed:-

Get the mouse and hold the mouse just behing the ears, With your fingers or foreceps, Gently use the nose of the mouse to prod the snake into opening its mouth, Then place the mouse head down the snakes throat so the head starts to disapear down the gulet, Water can be used to lubricate.Gently place the snake down, Hold its mouth over the mouse, And release your grip, Hopefully your snake will begin to swallow the mouse, Keep your movements minimal, As if the Royal is startled it could spit it out.

Force feeding

soak the mouse in water to lubricate, Place the mouse head down the throat, Whilst been gentle, Carefully massage the mouse down a few inches and put the snake down. Offer feeds in-between force feeding to see if the snake will feed for itself.

Breeding

Sexing

As a rule, Females grow larger than males, Also males have more pronounced spurs, That are located either side of the vent.Females may have smaller tails than males,but none of the above is accurate as each snake varies.

There are two methods to determine the presence of hemipenes(male cpoulatory organs).

1. Probing

Probing is the most accurate way to sex a royal python...other than doing a blood test. To do this you need to buy some probes, Probes are polished, Stainless steel rods.Lubricating the end of the probe with vaseline. Then insert carefully into the cloaca, Going in the direction of the tail,then passing into the hemipenis(if its a male). The sex is determined by measuring the debt to which the probe enters before it stops, Be careful and do not be too forceful.

Males will probe 5+ scales and females 2-3 scales(see below)

Probing a male: Image:Http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u220/evolutionrpm/caresheet pics/ozzy2.jpg Image:Http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u220/evolutionrpm/caresheet pics/ozzy3.jpg then place along the tail and count down Image:Http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u220/evolutionrpm/caresheet pics/ozzy4.jpg

2. Popping method

The second technique conmsists of everting the male hemipenes, This method is called `popping`. Using 2 hands, Use your thumb to gently pull the anal plate(the big scale that covers the vent), Pull it slightly up and then pull back, Whilst with your other thumbto push upward over the tail(starting low)towards the vent, One, Two or even both hemipenes should appear if male. Image:Http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u220/evolutionrpm/caresheet pics/ozzy.jpg

Females dont have hemipenes,see pic: Image:Http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u220/evolutionrpm/caresheet pics/mummysnake1.jpg

Hatchlings are easier to `pop` as males develop stronger muscles to control the hemipenes, Therefore making it more difficult.

In larger (450grams+)males you may see evidence of sperm plugs, Looks creamy, Pastey colour coming out of the hemipenes. This can also indicate he is ready to breed.

Size and Growth rate:-

Hatchlings range from 10 inches-17 inches, Adults typically range from 3 - 5 feet in length, Though in the wild they have been recorded reaching more than 6 feet long. Lifespan:- A captive, Healthy Royal Python can live between 20 - 30 years, The oldest on record for a captive Royal Python is 47.

Buying a Royal Python

Captive bred juveniles are the best choice for a first snake.The snake should have a rounded body,And shouldnt have a `pronounced` backbone or any rib definition.The skin should be clear and free from injuries or burns...always check the belly. If all of this appears to be ok, Ask to hold the snake, The snake should not be `cold`, If it is ,its likely the shop or breeder has cooled the snake ...They do this to aggressive snakes because the cold slows and calms them down , As soon as you get it at its right temperature it could be an agressive snake...it is a trick breeders have used before.They should be at the same temperature to you or slightly warmer.They should feel muscular to hold, Not limp.A good indication to a healthy Royal Python is to hold near the tail/bottom end of snake and the snake should be easily able to lift its head all the way to your hand, If it can it is in good shape.

Then follow these steps:-

1. With one hand, Hold the snake behind its head, While supporting its body on a table or use your other arm to hold it against your body.With the other hand, Gently pull the skin underneath the lower jaw to open the mouth of the snake.Look for a presence of bubbly mucus - which is a sign of respitory infection.

2. While you have got the mouth open, Look for signs of stomatitis, Areas of gums will be covered with `cheesy` looking matter.In some cases red,rew and injured areas will be evident.Avoid buying a snake with these symptoms.

3. Make sure the eyes are clear, If the Roayl Python is in shed eyes will appear cloudy or bluey.The eyes should not have any scaring on them.

4. Examine the vent (opening to the cloaca),The anal scale should be flat against the body and should be clear from fecal matter.

5. Check body for lumps, Check backbone, Gently rub along the spine, Any depressed areas could mean injury to the spine, Collapsed areas along the sides are signs of broken ribs.

6. Check for mites, Mites are tiny, Bead like athropods...They also look like sesame seeds.They are usually present in the rim of the eye and the eye itself.If the Royal Python is badly infested with mites, You will also see them on your hands and possibly small white flecks on the snakes skin, This is mite fecal matter.

Mites are a pain to treat and it can be an expensive job to get rid of them.If you have other snakes...DONT buy a snake with mites.Always wash your hands between handeling diffrent snakes.

Lighting

Snakes need 13-14 hours worth of light in the summer months and 10-11 in the wointer months and cooling period.If you are using a bulb to keep the ambient temperature right at night - use red bulbs as snakes cannot see red.For day time a standard bulb is ok.Be sure to use wire lightguards to protect against thermal burns. Heating Heatmats are mainly used, And canbe placed under the vivarium or inside...but you must use a thermostat, So you can monitor the temperature the heatmat is at, And prevent burns as heartmats can get really hot and does kill snakes. If you want to use ceramics instead of using a lightbulb, These are equally as effective.You will also need a guard around the ceramic bulb. You need a good thermometer, Either an analog or a digital thermometer, So you can keep an eye on the temperatures.These are a `must-have` to correctly monitor the right temperatures.For precise readings you can also use an infra-red temperature gun. Tempatures should be:80 - 85 F (27 - 29 C) during the day, with a basking spot of around 90 F (32 C). Night time temperatures can fall to around 75 F (23 -24 C)

Mites

Mites can cause a snake to go off food or to have a bad shed, these may be the first signs to take a close look at your snake. A snake may also bathe as they will be uncomfortable, some mites may appear in the water when they have drowned. They like to be around the eyes and mouth of your snake but this is by no means the only place you should look as they will settle anywhere. They can travel long distances to lay their eggs so the snake may not seem to have many but there will soon be more. Young mites may appear white or red after a meal, adults will appear black, they are about the size of a poppy seed when adult.

To prevent mites you need to freeze, bake, soak or disinfect everything that goes in your snakes enclosure.

All new snakes must be quarantined as far away from others in your collection as possible.

If you get mites, depending on your choice of treatment, the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned, anything that can be thrown away should be, anything that can't should be treated. Hypoaspis mites (details below) require substrate to live in so the enclosure should be left as it was.

Treatments for mites are available from vets and reptile shops and there are several forms, you can treat the snake or the enclosure or both. Listed below are a few but if anyone has any to add please do.

1) Hypoaspis mites, a natural pest control used for Sciarid Fly by gardeners but that also prey on snake mites. They attack all stages of the mites life cycle. They need higher humidity to survive and will just die off when there is no more mites for them to eat. Reviews are very positive. Hypoaspis mites can also be used on tarantulas, scorpions, other invertebrates and lizards, making it safer than other products if you have other animals in your collection whereas some chemical products can be fatal to other animals.

2) Ardap/Provent A Mite spray, used to treat the enclosure but is not safe for use on the animal. The spray should kill on contact any mites that are in the enclosure and the remaining fumes should kill any that are on the snake. The spray protects the enclosure for up to 6 weeks so is long enough to defeat the life cycle. It can also be used to treat the home but cannot be used near any fish, invertebrates or amphibians, it is best to check if it will affect any other animals before use. Water bowls must be removed before treatment.

3) Insect/Fly paper, a small piece can be placed in a match box or camera film container with a small hole in and placed in the enclosure. Depending on the size of the enclosure you should only need one or two pieces about an inch in length. The containers are better suspended from the ceiling so the snake can't reach them. The chemical in the strip can be harmful to reptiles but there are people who swear by it if used properly.

4) Zoo Med Mite Off/Bye Bye Mite, can be used directly on the animal to kill the mites, they are even safe to use on the snakes eyes, they can also be used to treat the enclosure. These products are fatal to tarantulas, scorpions and other invertebrates. This treatment may need to be repeated every 5 days for a period of at least 4 weeks if you choose not to treat the enclosure with chemicals and just clean it thoroughly.

5) Ivermectin, this is an injection that must be administered by a vet and after the first treatment the snake should be observed by the vet for at least 30 minutes for signs of adverse affects. It is a course of 3 injections, once a week for 3 weeks. It can also be used as a diluted spray. The enclosure must also be treated when treating the snake this way as the infestation may return. There are, however, reports of Ivermectin causing neurological problems in some species of reptiles.

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