lol @ Terry

Na I cant, I think its the food she's fed tbh, she had a handful ish of bakers biscuits and a tin of pedigree at night, and has a dentastick in the morning.

There'd be no point me trying to take any weight off her, he spoils her and the weight will pile back on, apparently she looses weight in kennels (he does go away quite a bit and usually uses kennells) but within a months shes back to the weight she normally is

I'd love to put her on raw for the month but then she probs wouldnt eat her other food, and I cant just do that with someone elses dog

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hey, rocco! :--)

as *tripod already mentioned Open-Bar / Closed-Bar which is among my favorite B-Mod techniques, i wanted to point out that Classical Conditioning a-la Pavlov and Counter Conditioning used in B-Mod which is also Pavlovian, are both non-contingent:

the subjects behavior has nothing whatever to do with the association -
we simply pair one stimulus of our choice, with another stimulus of our choice.

ppl do this ACCIDENTALLY all the time:
going to the vet gets associated with invasive procedures by strangers for a shy dog:
its now a highly-aversive + stressful environment.
claw-clipping becomes associated with struggle and anger;
now the dog struggles at the *mere sight* of the clippers.

when we do Classical or Counter-Conditioning (making a formerly-bad association into a good-one), we do it on purpose:
Every time X is present, Y happens.

the dog can be stiff-legged, growling, hackled, bark, etc -
SO * LONG as the subject will take treats, i feed them as long as the stimulus is present.
if the subject will not take food, they are either over-aroused or shut-down;
reduce the stimulus to a level they can cope with, and re-offer the treat.

keeping the subject under threshold is another key component, so if the dog is reactive to other dogs and is barking,
lunging, etc, i would immediately give more distance... BUT i would still offer the treat.

we are not Punishing the dog for any behavior offered -
neither are we Rewarding the dog for any behavior offered.
we are simply associating the arrival + presence of another dog, with high-value treats -
the subject-dogs behavior is immaterial, as long as they will happily swallow.
and when the other dog [trigger] is out of perception range, the treats CEASE.
over time, this often creates a simple happy-anticipation:
Dog? = Treat? and the subject-dog becomes far-less stressed + reactivity drops markedly.

it can also be easily shaped into a default-behavior:
i see or hear a dog? i look to my handler for a reward... which can be a short tug-session,
a small goody, petting + praise, ANYthing that the dog enjoys is fine.

we have now installed an incompatible, desirable behavior: Attn to the handler -
in place of the former reactivity + acting-out -
AND we have made it automatic - the cue is the perception of another dog.
what could be better?

one version of the Default-Attn to Handler is Look At That! -
as detailed in the book, Control Unleashed.

happy B-Mod,
--- terry

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terry pride, APDT-Aus, apdt#1827, CVA, TDF
*wolves R wolves, dogs R dogs, + primates R us.*
tmp, sept-2007

Awsum, so whenever another dogs around us (her evening walks are in the park, sometimes other dogs are there) I treat her, no matter what she's doing...

Im assuming she has to be paying attention to the dog, rather than sniffing the floor or something? Or does she just need to have noticed the dog is about?

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Do both: open bar closed bar and BAT.

Reward the presence of dogs with high value treats - doesn't matter what she is doing.
But reward behaviour (i.e. softening etc.) with distance

I tend to just sit and chill with a dog doing open bar closed bar and then do specific BAT sessions where we work on decreasing distance.

Remember, BELOW threshold at all times.

Check out the calming your crazy canine thread for ideas on teaching quick get a ways and for other info on this sort of thing Let me know if you want any help with BAT etc. It really is worth while doing

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Anne, owned by Rufus & Tripod

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