Does your vet run puppy parties i think they are called this But they are for pups who havent had thier full vacinations yet but allows them to socialise

Ooo I don't know. he has his first lot of jabs soon so I'll ask. sounds a good idea though

You have to realise hes just been taken out of his litter, has unusual scents, new faces, new surroundings and a lot of people wanting to pick him up etc, pups do bite and they do like to, try some slices of carrot. Say outch when he bites - move hands and dont interact this is the only way your going to stop it - but it will take time. As regards a rope mine would ingest it when able so I wouldnt use one of these - I used a kong instead and a rubber teething bone, tough as nails.
What are you feeding him? Burns mini bites helped greatly with agression in mine. The biting will decrease but you have to stay consistent with the outch and moving away with all people in the household. Do you have a crate? I cant remember isolating my pup for biting but I did when he was able to run madly and 'attack' they are useful to settle them down in but you must be gentle when putting them in or it will just escalate it

The only thing with useing his crate to isolate is that it then or may becomes an unfriendly place to be, so when you need him to be calm and happy in there say when you are out he may not want to be in thier. Ours all love the crate and go in to chill out, I used the baby gate method in several rooms of the house to have time out for the pups, they could then still have a roam around and still see us, they dont feel hemmed in.

Jasper was the worst puppy Iv ever had with biteing as a pup my hands were a mess but with removeing myself or removeing him to an area of the house gated off plus the yelping when he bit/nipped and working through this over several weeks he stopped and became a little pup who was a delight. I also had to increase the stimulus he was getting in the form of brain activities, not excercise he was getting loads of this, so we played hide and seek with treats, I got some intelli toys and a kong stuffed with part of his dinner to keep him focused, you can Iv heard even freeze wet food in the kong to make it harder, but iV never done this so dont know if this is an ok thing to do Just hear it said.
We couldnt even stroke his head put his collar on he just wanted to nip all the time and it does feel like a bite cause it hurts and draws blood. 7 Years on Jasper is one of the sweetest dogs you could ever meet and everyone that meets him wants to take him home and he loves to be stroked and cuddled

But must say Jasper was a porrly pup and had some health issues RE digestion/ higher levels of something to leave him pre disposed to pancreatitis so he wasnt getting thwe right nutrients absorbed. It may well be worth getting him checked over fully by the vet but Im sure its just a bolshy strong willed little pup you have there

Sorry for the essay but just a few things we did that worked

Good luck again

Our little bundle of joy was (and still can be) a complete nightmare. we got him a 8 weeks, but he was away from his mother from about 5.5 weeks so never got put in his place and so brought that behaviour to us.... lets just sat after a few months and some very unhappy times for my wife he is starting to settle down. He still does come and just bite us for no real reason, apart from to get our attention, he is 5 months now and has just finished teathing a week ago, and in that week he has stoped mouthing almost completely.

We have noticed that they just somehow get stuff and one hour they are a nightmare and the next they understand and are as good as gold, this has happend with pretty much everything for us.

I would however say, it is likely to take a while (at least 4-6 weeks) before you get the behaviour completly sorted, but here are a few things we figured out about ours that helped reduce the problem/intensity

- try to keep your puppy calm, dont have people pet him all the time, he really needs to be asleep a lot. Our worst time is when people visit and he gets worked up and just wants to bite everything and second if he misses a sleep break, then he just gets more and more tired.
- time outs are great, be it you from him or him from you. Dont make a big fuss about putting him out, if you need to just go out of the room and close the door, or stand up and turn your back on him and ignore him... the more fuss (good or bad) you pay him while telling him off or removing him the more it will incourage him to keep up the behaviour. All atention is good to a pupy lol
- what food do you use, use something that doesnt have artificial stuff in it, we use burns mini bites.

Anyway hope this helps, but choose and aproach and stick with it.

You say the puppy is getting hyper before it bites. I would put it in it's crate or behind a babygate at that stage, before it escalates. Leave it to calm down or have a nap before you let it free. Don't be angry, just be calm and in control. Give it a chew or a treat ball so it becomes a positive experience for the puppy.
I brought my puppy home at 7 weeks, feed Burns mini bites, and there's been no problem with biting, just a bit of finger-sucking in the first few days when she was wanting her mum.

Bringing a pup home at 6 weeks isn't ideal, but it's not the end of the world either. GDFTB take their pups away at 6 weeks. The main problem, as you've found out, is that they don't learn bite inhibition from their littermates. Don't panic, follow the advice you've been given, join some training classes when pup is old enough and above all remember - this is normal puppy behaviour and is NOT IN ANY WAY AGGRESSION - any more than a human baby grabbing someone's hair is a sign that it will grow up to mug old ladies

When you ignore the dog you need to do just that as if it isn;t even there. It's hard because we are humans love to love but this isn;t what the little critter needs.

No eye contact, no verbal contact and certainly no physical contact. Even if they sound like they will die if you don't go over and see them or look at them just ignore them completely.

Only when the puppy has relaxed and laid down and relaxed can you then start to communicate with it. Keep it in your peripheral vision though and check to see what it's doing. If it is sat but staring at you but looks relaxed still ignore it. This may take anything up to 30mins but you will see the time drop over the period of a a few days or a week depending how quick the puppy realises it can't so what it is doing.

Oh yeah, no toys in the isolation area either as they will distract the puppy from associating action and consequence, plus they relax a lot quicker.

I just wanted to say I symphathise as my 11 week old has become more and more "forceful" with her biting regardless of my taking her away from the situation and putting her behind the puppy gate in the kitchen (she instantly calms down and sits paticiently(sp) waiting to be let in) but within 2 mins she is again biting feet/hands.

She has toys, ropes, kong with food in and yet is more interested in feet or hands. Dont get me wrong she can play Very nicely and lick your hands but she can also just turn and catch you and bite hard.

I tried the yelping but that only made her more excited so a firm no is what she is told and calmly placed in kitchen where I then sit at the table in living room opposite her but I ignore her.

She starts puppy classes tonigt so im hoping socialising and speaking with the trainer and getting hands on advice I can make sure I am correcting her properly.

Have a look at this, so many people have the same problem, it's normal puppy behaviour

Help with a nipping pup