that sounds interesting. Where do you get one from? x

__________________


Lilly, Max, Henry and Sammy. The joys of my life!

post #8

hey, wendy! :--)

i can only agree, EVERYtime the dog comes to U must be a positive event, even if they are on a long-line + i have to bring them hand over hand as they struggle like a manic-toddler, LOL - they got there, that is all that matters.

behavior is an A-B-C sequence:
A the antecedent (the thing happening before), B the behavior, C the consequent event or consequence - the antecedents are the dog running free and U calling, the behavior is their delay but eventually returning, and the Consequence is immediate - U cannot PUNISH the dog for returning, it spoils the recall + poisons the cue. (shrug)

even dogs who fight like hooked-swordfish on a long-line as i bring them in, STILL get their enthusiastic pay-off - matter of fact, i make it even better than compliant dogs, as they had to return against the magnetic pull of serious distraction (often another dog, or a favorite activity / visual cue, like someone ELSES ball...).

its gotta be good to be worth breaking off a game, etc.!

>> if you have a... long training line the dog can still get a run (as) you are always in control but beware of dogs on long-lines running round you in circles, as you could end up very tangled, lol << - wendy

thankfully i have had practice with 1400# dogs, LOL - horses!,
and i turn with the dog as they circle, to keep the lead straight to their neck or harness. for BETTER control than a buckle-collar or wide-fabric-martingale, i use an H-harness with a front-ring - a ring on the chest, joining the straps together - and clip the leash to the chest-ring.

even a BIG dog can be slowed, stopped, and turned about with a chest-ring to clip the long-lead to -- they have a lot of momentum, so WEAR GLOVES to protect Ur hands!! from a nylon or polypropylene long-line!
i have seen terrible burns on palms + fingers from a running-rope or web line or anything poly - COTTON web-lines are much safer, but they do get wet on long-grass, etc, and that makes them heavy. for a dog over 40#, this is not a big deal - for a small dog, supporting the weight of a damp or wet cotton lead, 30-ft long, is quite an effort.
the Up-Side: they tire faster, LOL...

cheers to all,
--- terry

terry pride, APDT-Aus, apdt#1827, CVA, IPDTA, TDF

post #11 - goodvic

hey, vic! :--)

i am in the USA, so i am sorry, i have no idea who carries them there -
here is a Google Shopping search, maybe that will help!
Amazon carries them, but its a bit pricey.

springer dog jogger - Google Product Search

i can buy them locally for about $40, which beats a trip to the ER by about $260! and up...

cheers,
--- terry

Hey Terry

Thanks for that. They look great, but I am still unsure as to whether it can actually stop a dog from pulling you off, if it is trying to chases. The odd pull is fine, but my problem is the chasing of small furry animals!

x

__________________


Lilly, Max, Henry and Sammy. The joys of my life!

James, that is not wise advice. however frustrated you are and however long the dog has taken to come back as far as it is concerned it has come to you and it must be praised or it will be even more reluctant the next time.

lol if they are on lead yes they will try to take off after a rabbit, but thankfully when they are next to my bike they seem to know its not to be done, so are very good when running by my bike, plus I keep my eye open, and make sure they are given a command to leave it up to now touch wood no incidents, and its been a good few years I have been running them like this. edited to add I use a side springer but I hook the springer to a harness with a D ring on the back similar to a walking harness, then I hook a lead to their collar for extra control.

http://www.springerusa.com/

mo

re post #16 - mo

hey, mo! :--)

i have used the Springer clipped to a front-ring (chest) on an H-harness, and also with a Gentle Leader headcollar - the headcollar i would ** think! ** would make it impossible for the dog to generate enuf leverage to really lunge, as their neck, torso and legs cannot get enuf momentum - at least, NO dog that i have bike-jogged with a GL has ever even popped the safety-break loop (and with headcollars, i DO use the safety-poppers, just in case i should fall with the bike - i do not want the dog to be entangled, or their Head + NECK to be torqued!... just in case).

i have not tried having a lead as back-up - that might be a good thing, whenever i am using the safety-poppers! good tip,
--- terry

Bike leads & attachments:
Bike Jogging Leads - buy, compare and review at the Bike Jogging Leads specialists

The Trixie one looks the cheapest.
I need to service & fix up my old bike and get one! I think it would be great as my dog often lunges at other dogs - with these attachments, they are fixed to the part under the bike saddle which is your centre of gravity, meaning it would be much harder for them to pull you off if they did lunge at anything. They have a kind of shock absorber in the pole part that helps.

__________________
Sue, Merlin & Cuba
Dog moves in mysterious ways. Be at peace, Patrick.
I've been described as a lighthouse in a bog - brilliant, but useless.

i actually dont use the poppers I use a double clip benching chain, I hook the hoop on the springer and the two clips at the end of the chain to the D ring on the back of the harness, I WANT my dogs to pull me along lol I dont do any peddling at all the dogs do all the work lol.

heres the chains.

http://dogstuff.co.uk/acatalog/Benching_Chain.html

mo