hey, y'all! :--)

i saw someone suggest a headcollar in a thread, but this is not as simple as just putting it on the dog, and walking off - dogs do not wear sunglasses or goggles, typically, and they need to get used to the bizarre sensation.
a leash and collar can only control DISTANCE from the handler - a headcollar is power-steering, it allows the handler to re-direct a dog who is staring a threat at another dog or person, ramping-up to lunge at a cat nearby, about to jump on a visitor, and so on. it can be used by an adult with ONE * FINGER to direct the dog - there is no more brute force, it is the use of gentle leverage to direct the dogs head.

have U ever taken gymnastics?
Where the Nose Points, The Body Follows - that is the key to the headcollars ability to re-direct the dogs attention, and prevent aggro and reactivity, or over-arousal and uncontrolled behaviors.

i will abbreviate the headcollar GL, as i use the Gentle-Leader -
just substitute the brand of Ur choice, anywhere U read GL. ;-)

getting started
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i often suggest that for immediate control, the H-harness with the leash clipped to the front, is the tool for Now - meanwhile, the dog can be accustomed to the GL in small steps:

Introduce the GL
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have some small, EXCELLENT treats on hand; offer the GL to the dog, they sniff? praise + treat! offer it again - they sniff or touch it? praise + treat! work up to having the DOG put THEIR nose into the open nose-loop for a treat held in Ur other hand -
U hold the open-loop up with one hand, have the tidbit in the other hand, put it thru the loop FOR the dog, then hold the open loop STEADY and the tidbit in the center; gradually ask the dog to put their own nose into + then thru the loop, for the treat.
DO * NOT retreat with the treat, to try to make them come further forward! that is cheating - hold STILL and let the dog decide to take that next voluntary step, and then PAY them for taking the risk.

to see this process with a real dog, go to ABRIonline (google) and find Donaldson getting the Gentle-Leader onto her Chow - in a matter of minutes, the dog is happily shoving her face into the loop and holding it there, with no restraint, no stress, as a freely-offered behavior.


To put on the GL
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pick it up by the nose-loop, opposite from the figure-8 slide that makes the division between nose-loop and neck-loop. the SEWN-edges of the collar should be on the OUTside - the smooth underside goes against the dogs face, not the folded-corners of the hems.
the 2 sides of the neck-loop hang down, and the nose-loop is held open by the spread fingers - ideally the dog puts their OWN nose into the loop, not U putting the nose-loop over their face as they try to evade it!

the nose-loop is over the dogs nose, drop it and let the muzzle support it - pick up the hanging tabs of the neck-loop, lead it behind the dogs ears + clip it together. AGAIN, check that the sewn-overlap of the collar-hem is on the OUTSIDE + visible -- smooth-side goes on the dog.

make the neck-loop SNUG, flat + high on the neck; adjust the nose-loop so that the lower-edge just touches the upper-edge of the nose-leather. the adjustment-clip locks on the strap; if it is too tight, a dime will easily prise the locking-lever up so that it can be adjusted.

after being worn a few times, the oils in the dogs coat will be on the neck-loop and the slide will tend to loosen; TIGhtEN the neck-loop any time U can get a finger, even a pinky, beneath the neck-loop between GL + the dog! the more snug that neck-loop, the more-open the nose-band.

a dog the size of an average GSD should be able to pick-up a tennis ball while wearing a properly-fitted GL.



Habituation - 3 steps
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* first step: Meals Only
fill the bowl, call the dog, have them SIT, pop the GL on, put the bowl down.
most dogs will ignore the GL and eat - when they finish, call them over, have a small tidbit, say SIT, take off the GL, give them dessert and tell them they are wonderful! what a good dog...

step 2
* add WALKS + other fun activities (supervised only)
the leash goes on the harness or buckle collar - the GL is on only to get the dog used to it, and associate the good feelings of the activity with the GL.

WARNING - if U leave the Gl on while the dog is NOT supervised, like in the backseat of the car, they can cut thru the nose-loop connecting to the leash in seconds. then U have an expensive, narrow collar! :--O

step 3
* when the dog wears the GL during meals *and* during walks, play, etc, without any fuss, there will be a day when U pick-up the GL to go for a walk, and the dog rises in happy anticipation with a wagging tail when they see the GL in Ur hands. NOW is the time to clip the leash to the ring under the nose-loop, and take that first crucial walk with the GL in use. keep the first-walk Short + Brisk - keep the dog moving! any time that they have to sit or stand, they may be tempted to try to thumb the nose-loop off, which is a bad habit to slide into. [b]if the dog *succeeds* in thumbing the nose-loop off, they will repeatedly attempt it - so be sure it is properly FITTED.[b]


Fitting the GL
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the neck-loop should be as snug as possible, NO fingers should fit between the dogs neck + the collar. it should be as high and close to the ears as possible; dogs with a heavy ruff may need a bridle-path, which can be almost invisible if made by using Thinning Shears to reduce the thick coat (Rough Collies, Rough Chow-Chows, etc).

the nose-loop should be adjusted so that the Bottom-Edge when slid down
the face will ** just touch ** the upper-edge of the nose-leather - this will prevent the dog being able to thumb-off the nose-band, as it will not be able to slip over their nose --- but at the same time, they will be able to Pant Freely, Eat, Drink, BITE and play with a toy.



a word about leashes - and a Caution!
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IF U USE a heavy leash (double-thickness or extra-wide), or it has a heavy-duty clip or bull-snap, *swap it for a lighter one* - there is no need for hefty hardware with a GL. a i/4 inch wide nylon-webbing leash is fine for a dog up to 25 or 30#; a half-inch wide
leash will easily handle a 50# dog; a 3/4 inch leash will hold a 90# dog. a one-inch wide leash is good for a Giant breed - 120# or over - and it need not be double-thick, either. ALL leashes should be 6-ft or less in length, and NO FLEXIS - Flexis are dangerous with a headcollar! U can exert sudden torque on the dogs neck, or they can hit the end of the leash with force, and seriously injure their neck or spine!


cheers, and happy training!
--- terry

terry pride, APDT-Aus, apdt#1827, CVA, IPDTA, TDF

Hi

Not dissimilar to my post a few weeks ago, same process almost..

What is important is that you get your dog used to it first...

Re: gentle leader anyone?

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I don't know what dog you have, but Gentle Leaders are very good for the larger breeds - would you try and lead a horse by something around its neck? No.

However, I have used them a lot on smaller dogs to, where someone has balance problems, or their dog is a bit unpredictable with other dogs, as you can move their heads easily to prevent them getting eyecontact with other dogs! You can basically control a dog with one finger.

However, if you get one, please, please, don't just put it on and expect your dog to accept it!!

Take a few days getting your dog used to it.

Training the Gentle Leader or Halti......

Firstly rub it in your hands, or wash it to soften it up a bit and change the scent on it, some are really stiff and creased when you get them out the packet. Make sure you know how to put it on and the clip is adjusted correctly.

Hold a treat in your fingers and put this through the nosepiece and encourage your dog to put his nose through to get the treat, but don't put it on. Do this until your dog is happy to take treats with you holding the headcollar and doesn't mind the touch on his nose.

Do this a few times in a day, until your dog is relaxed then moving a bit further until you can clip it on for a few seconds - feeding treats - and then take it off - don't reward as you remove it, just praise verbally.

When you can clip it on and feed your dog treats and he is relaxed - if he tries to paw it off distract him with food - then put it on for mealtimes whilst he is eating, then take it off, you are basically building up a positive association. When he is happy with this. Put it on, but don't attach anything to it and play a game, go for a walk - using the old lead and collar. Keep moving on the walk, if you stand still too long, he will rub your leg with his head!

When he isn't bothered by it atall being on you can start to introduce having a lead attached and him getting used to feeling you tugging. This is done by putting the headcollar on and clipping a very light lead - a puppy lead is ideal - to the headcollar, but still have your usual lead and collar on the dog. You are going to do most of your walk using the normal collar - even with the pulling, but now and again you need to start putting more 'feel' on the headcollar. Progress this until your collar and lead is loose and you are using the headcollar most of the time.

If at any time your dog tries to rub it off either on your leg or paws, distract him with a treat, or just keep walking smartly forward. Eventually you can drop the old collar and lead and continue with the headcollar.

It sounds complicated, but most dogs take a couple of days at the most to get used to it, but it does depend on the dog.

DO NOT EVER EVER EVER, use a Headcollar and a flexi. If the dog runs full length of the lead, it is at risk of seriously damaging, or even breaking his neck. If you use a flexi take the headcollar off and attach it to the collar.

Best of luck, it will be interesting to see how you get on.

Kate

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Listen to everyone, but use what suits you... and if it works, don't change it!