I am new and hoping you can help.

We have 2 dogs one is a 12 year old smooth haired JRT and the other is a 5 year old rough haired over sized JRT.

Previous to this we had a rescue JRT who died in 2002 but taught the old boy all he knew about hating other dogs.

with me so far?...................Good!

They get on really well with old boy being the boss.

Alfie (the 5 yo) has always been fearful agressive to other dogs, we took him to puppy socialisation, where all the other dogs were huge breeds and he sat under my chair growling and taking snaps at all these gormless friendly puppies.

He went to Dog training and was star pupil (in terms of commands) but had to kept separate from the other dogs.

We took him to a behaviourist when he was under 12 months and he attended some classes for aggressive dogs but they appeared to make him worse as he only had bad experiences of other dogs.

We have spent the last 4 years avoiding busy places, keeping watch for other dogs and only letting him of the lead in really remote locations.

In every other way he is a complete dream, but we have recently purchased a camper van and realise that we are going to come into contact with a lot more dogs than we are used to.

Today we took him to the park and a very small terrier came bounding up to our 2, we had them on leads and his owner was a long way off with a tethered Rottie so couldnt do anything. Alfie picked this dog up by its head and shook and slung it like a rat then got hold of it again, my OH had to prise his teeth off and it ran off yelping. I checked it was Ok with the owner wasnt overly impressed but hey she should have had it on a lead, her attitude was its got to learn but I think this is daft its gonna learn not to trust other dogs.

Anyway we are a bit sad and realise we need to do something, thing is is it too late to try and address issues at 5 years old?

firstly, it's not the other dog's fault that your dog attacked it. it's the owner's fault for not training it to recall. have you had this JRT from a pup? From now on, muzzle him every time you go out to prevent any more attacks as it's not fair on the other dogs.

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Mummy to 7 pets: 2 rabbits, 3 rats, 1 dog, 1 cat

I know it isnt the other dogs fault I love dogs and hate them to get hurt, I didnt have a serve him right attitude, his owner did, I am worried that he will get himself into trouble one day and as she is saddled with an aggressive Rottie (which she was having trouble controlling) she wont be able to step in and rescue him. But that is her problem, I have considered a muzzle, this is the first time he has actually bitten a dog, its usually just growling and snapping, I think it was because he was so small.

Yes we have had Alfie from 8 weeks old, he was the only boy in a litter and we had to have a few days early as he was being picked on by an adult male so he already had negative experiences.

I would muzzle him from now on and contact a good behaviourist, as they are the ones who can solve this. It sounds like fear aggression, but he needs to meet dogs that are sociable and quiet (him with a muzzle), so he can see that dogs are not scary things.

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Mummy to 7 pets: 2 rabbits, 3 rats, 1 dog, 1 cat

Hi.

Welcome to the forum. No it is not too late, but it takes a lot of work.

Read the "about me" on my page for some inspiration.

Aggressive dogs are like that for a reason, it is about identifying why. Most aggression is caused by fear. Sounds as though your guy is fearful of other dogs and tries to attack them.

One of my rescue's is ultra nervous and can act aggressively. The worst thing I did was took her to a group training class. Imagine having a fear, being stuck on a lead and having to confront that fear? It did not work and actually made her worse. Myabe forcing your dog into this situation and not addressing his fear or problem correctly has made him like this?

My other rescue who was aggressive, is now off the lead and doing very well. This has been made possible by exposing him to other dogs in a CALM and CONTROLLED way. Everytime your dog reacts it reinforces the behaviour and makes it worse.

Where in the country are you?

You need to work with a behaviourist who understands fear aggression.

For your info, nervous/aggressive dogs will always be worse on a lead. This is because you take away their option to run away, so sometimes they feel as though they have to fight.

YOu should walk your dogs seperately, if you don't already. They often feel braver when they are with their pack members.

If I were to walk my 3 rescue's together, then two of them could still act aggressively (part of their rehabilitation has been walking them seperately). But I will not muzzle my dogs. I understand people's point that if your dog may bite then you should. But my dogs should also be able to be walked without another dog pestering them. It is different when you are at a park or similar place, but if you are lead walking your dog, then other dogs should not be approaching.

You really need to get some GOOD professional help. To be honest (and I don;'t want to make you feel bad) but this should not have happened when you have had a dog since a pup, so clearly you do need to get some expert help.

Pm me if you need any further advice. Remember you can do it, but you need the knowledge to correct your mistakes.

Good luck x

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Lilly, Max, Henry and Sammy. The joys of my life!

well, this is the 3rd time, but 3rd time is the charm!
;--)

this is pasted copy on reactivity, but it also applies to aggro or fears -
and 85% or more of dogs who exhibit aggro do so out of a fear of
_____ - the other dog, the situation, too close, too many hands,
something in the environment = oR = within themselves - like pain
(chronic pain makes dogs just as cranky as ppl in constant pain),
a diet that predisposes them to a low threshold of irritability
(corn-based dog foods or a high corn percentage - it creates a
shortage of serotonin in the brain, making the dog less tolerant
of stresses of all kinds), etc.

======== pasted =============



there are a number of good books out that can help with reactivity; it does not matter what the root is, over-arousal, frustration, aggro, whatever, each of them can be re-trained with DS/CC - desensitization + counter-conditioning.

* Click to Calm - excellent book, theory + background in the front, literal step by step recipes for coping and B-Mod in the back. many of my clients have had good success using this, all on their own.

* Control Un-leashed:
another goodie - Look at That! is a technique that rather than having U react by pulling the leash tight + stop breathing when U see/hear another dog, which only cues the dog to react, instead U cheerfully announce, Look at That! a dog... and start paying out treats as fast as the dog can swallow. (if the dog cannot focus enuf to eat the treats, or if s/he is actually barking, U are too close - back-up a bit, and U can keep feeding while fading back, as long as s/he will eat them.)

the local library may have one or the other - if not, try Interlibrary Loan.

by *treats* i mean SMALL but extremely high-value, low-fat items - not biscuits!
tuna bits from a pouch, grated-low-at-mozzarella, meat-based cat-kibble, anything that is stinky, tiny, and very-very Good. each tidbit should be no more than 1/4 inch cube, and preferably less - an 1/8 inch is fine.
i have also used salmon-bits mixed into low-fat cream-cheese, organic yogurt (vanilla),
and other messy stuff the dog must LICK, not bite - which keeps them very busy! i use a camping-squeeze-tube for the gooey stuff.


NEW section!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
for dogs like terrierists or ball-mad Labs, etc, whose passion is not food but Action!, a short spell of Tug-of-Peace with a dedicated interaction-Only special tug-toy can be a terrific reward for any and all calm behavior, or as a positive-association for the presence (sight, sound, smell) of other dogs - Other dogs are around? Whip out the toy, Look at That! a dog... and commence happy play.
a fetch toy on a drag-cord can be used, also (that way if U throw it + the dog fails to retrieve or only brings it back halfway, U can pull it in vs go-and-get-it - bending over to pick up the fetch toy offers a moment when Ur reactive dog may take off, hit the end of the lead, bark or just silently-stare at another dog - a THREAT - and U might miss the whole thing, and wonder ? why is that formerly-calm dog going insane over my dog? they were fine just a moment ago... ?? )
a sturdy tug-toy of firehose is a good one - they last a long time.
BUT - this is ** not ** a chew-toy, nor is it to be trophied! it does NOT go to the dog - it is YOURS, and U share it by allowing the dog to play with it, *with U*.
that makes it significant, and it becomes a signal for play, very potent.
~~~~~~~ End new section ~~~~~~~~~~


keeping the dog UNDER threshold during the B-Mod process is important - meaning Not barking, lunging, etc. so U need to work in an area with lo-o-o-ng sight-lines, so that U and the dog are not caught by surprise with a dog coming out from between parked cars right in front of U. and preferably there should be NO loose dogs - so a parking-lot near a pet-supply with a stream of dogs arriving at a distance is perfect. a block away from the dog-park, with dogs passing by as U sit under a tree off the walkway, is another.
sitting within sight + sound of the vets office is a good one!

i would skip introductions on leash until he has largely got past the barking + lunging - giving him a possible opp to practice the Un-Wanted behavior is very if-fy.
Practice makes Permanent! is a training mantra.

cheers, and happy B-Mod!
--- terry

terry pride, APDT-Aus, apdt#1827, CVA, IPDTA, TDF

Thanks for the suggestions, I dont want to muzzle him so I am happy to consider some of the other ideas, he loves his ball and usually wont bother dropping this for another dog but yesterday something triggered him, I am wondering if he was protecting the old boy, so will try walking them separately. I am very nervous when loose dogs approach and wish other dog owners would keep a closer eye on their pets, after all how can they poop scoop if they are not watching them?
I know my dogs aggression is my problem and I will try and overcome it

I think it's selfish not to even try muzzling your dog. How would you feel if your dog killed another one as it sounds like it is capable of that? It is your problem and to prevent further attacks, you need to muzzle the dog.

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Mummy to 7 pets: 2 rabbits, 3 rats, 1 dog, 1 cat

I do think you should stay away from the park if your dog behaves like this. I don't like having to muzzle, but if you are in an area where dogs are off the lead, then you should stay away.

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Lilly, Max, Henry and Sammy. The joys of my life!

I totally appreciate your opinion and will learn form this experience, if another dog gets close again, we will just pick our lad up out of harms way, it is the first time in 5 years, and I really dont think he was capable of killing the other dog.

I wont however muzzle him.