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Dog Training and Behaviour Discuss dog training and behaviour problems in this section. Are you having problems with your dogs behaviour? Then submit your problems and get help from other members. Do you have some excellent dog training advice? then submit your details here to help others.

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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2010, 04:28 PM
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Thumbs up teach a soft-mouth // the Wrist-Gene...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tripod View Post
bold added -

Just remember to work on inhibiting the force of bites first before getting rid of biting altogether -
this is the most important lesson to teach puppy
yup! and U only have a small window in which to teach it, too...

on a related topic, does anyone have a dog with the 'wrist-gene', LOL? for lack of a better term -
when the dog has something to show U, wants something, needs water, whatever, they loosely grasp
a human wrist with canines + incisors on the outside of the jaw-clasp, and draw the person to the area -
the lost kitten, the leaking tub, the empty bowl, and so forth.

i know of 4 breeds where this is a well-known and often *maternal line* heritable trait -
mum to daughter, to daughter, etc: GSDs, Scottish Deerhounds, BCs, and Rhodies.

does anyone have a dog who LEADS humans by the wrist, with a light jaw-clasp?
if U do, what breed or sex is the dog?


the wrist-gene is a very useful and IMO endearing trait - i have had GSDs who loved to do this, and i loved having
the dog show me _____ - ya never knew what i might be! i would hate to see the wrist-gene suppressed entirely
by absolute no-contact with teeth.

i have also been the proud + happy recipient of nibble-grooming when i had burrs or stick=-tights - more than once,
while i cussed under my breath + picked wotsits off my pantslegs + sox, my dog would lend a helpful mouth. the task goes faster with help!

JMO + IME,
- terry
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2010, 04:52 PM
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Re: teach a soft-mouth // the Wrist-Gene...

Quote:
Originally Posted by leashedForLife View Post
yup! :
on a related topic, does anyone have a dog with the 'wrist-gene', LOL? for lack of a better term -
when the dog has something to show U, wants something, needs water, whatever, they loosely grasp
a human wrist with canines + incisors on the outside of the jaw-clasp, and draw the person to the area -
the lost kitten, the leaking tub, the empty bowl, and so forth.

i know of 4 breeds where this is a well-known and often *maternal line* heritable trait -
mum to daughter, to daughter, etc: GSDs, Scottish Deerhounds, BCs, and Rhodies.

does anyone have a dog who LEADS humans by the wrist, with a light jaw-clasp?
if U do, what breed or sex is the dog?


the wrist-gene is a very useful and IMO endearing trait - i have had GSDs who loved to do this, and i loved having
the dog show me _____ - ya never knew what i might be! i would hate to see the wrist-gene suppressed entirely
by absolute no-contact with teeth.

i have also been the proud + happy recipient of nibble-grooming when i had burrs or stick=-tights - more than once,
while i cussed under my breath + picked wotsits off my pantslegs + sox, my dog would lend a helpful mouth. the task goes faster with help!

JMO + IME,
- terry
That does sound really quite sweet, Harvey sadly is not that subtle, generally it's a kick of the bowl, a bark or a whine, or a nose up the behind. Now nibble grooming is a harvey speciality, if you need your ears cleaned, or hair brushing, then he is your man.
He is really gentle too (Although a wet tongue in the ear really sends shivers down the spine )
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:26 PM
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Re: pups HAVE TO err to learn?; Using low-value rewards = poor economy IMO

Before I respond to the postive criticism, which I am (due to foreign travel) slow to reply to.

Let me say, that I think beginning Basic Obedience Training with positive rewards, has not received enough emphasis in this thread. It gives the less confident a sense of control, and a way to manage the dog's excitement levels. Let's face it, most ppl coming into contact with a new puppy, are not expert dog handlers, but learning as they go. From what I have seen, people are leaving training to later, and missing an opportunity, whilst the puppy is developing its personality.

10 week old pups & younger can learn and can enjoy doing so!

Quote:
Originally Posted by leashedForLife View Post
effective management precludes the pup ever developing a jumping-up habit, so that behavior
does not have to be erased - i give pups who are excitedly greeting very-little leash, or simply STAND ON IT
That's fine if everyone in contact with the pup does it. All I'll say is, a Border Collie pup can learn very quickly from just a couple of examples, that many people find the jump up "puppy" behaviour amusing, and actively encourage it. It is easy to control a puppy on leash, unfortunately their play on leash with other dogs tends to result in the owners doing a Morris dance to reduce entanglement.

I expect my dog not to jump up and behave politely off leash, not just in the controlled on leash situation.

In my experience, other Dog owners at parks, are very often the worst culprits and the least cooperative to polite requests to avoid rewarding this behaviour.

Whilst I do agree with the thrust of what you're saying, from what I have seen at dog obedience club, most owners on the course are teaching the post-puppy young adult loose leash walking and having to combat a whole range of bad habits that the dogs have got into, through the pet owners being more relaxed about things, than an experienced dog handler would be. So they are likely to have to address some habits, not just do it right first time, which I agree is the ideal.

Quote:
what sort of 'restraint' does this refer to, rob? human hands holding him?
pinning him? what exactly? thrashing risking injury does not sound as tho he was being gated, tethered,
or crated, that's for sure.
Actually it referred to being put on a lead and attempting what you suggested ... *shrug*
The reaction made this course appear to me, to be irresponsible in my judgement, though I am sure it has worked for plenty of people in the past.

Quote:
tethering a wild-pup for just 30 to 45-seconds can work miracles -
the puppy wears the nylon-coated 12 to 18-inch MAX-length cable as a drag, and when the pup becomes unmanageable, clip the tether to an eye-bolt screwed to the baseboard, around a newel-post, to the leg of a hefty handy sofa, or etc; wait just a few seconds, back or SIDE to pup, release the pup as soon as they relax a bit.
see here for tethering uses -
Tethered to Success
I think dogs are individuals, and I was actually quite shocked by the reactions and behaviours I saw, it was outside of my previous experience with dogs and puppies.
Quote:
being able to startle a pup out of an undesirable behavior should be used with caution -
the very pups who are easily deterred by a startling sound, movement, etc, are the very ones who will likely
be made inordinately timid of novelty or of OFFERING behavior - they become very conservative in their actions,
doing only those things they know are 'safe', not exploring novel objects or environments, etc - they shut-down.
I agree, but this is an anecdote thread, and most of the (non cruel) techniques suggested in this thread were tried and were back firing.

Distraction onto a play item totally failed as the pup was too intelligent and focussed on his target.

So there was a gradual escalation, and the success of the interruption via home made pebble shaker, allowing distraction onto play objects, with management of excitement levels via reward based obedience training, turned the situation round, and as it was the Dams first litter, and another pup was returned causing the Breeder to be anxious and to communicate with us, the consequences should we not have succeeded might have been serious.

I am 100% sure we did the right thing, we acted sensitively and in a measured way, and after more popular recommendations in this thread failed.
Quote:
i rarely use kibble for rewards! i want enthusiasm, not ho-hum, here we go again...
i only use kibble for CHEAP easy-to-motivate dogs like Beagles, the harder the work we are doing,
Border Collies just love working, puppy training treats with liver in proved too rich and provoked sickness, a lean mixture of treats to kibble, worked fine. Earning this meagre fair was an engrossing activity and no more enthusiasm was required.

Whilst the young dog, is more praise motivated now than before, he is I'm afraid much more reliable when there's some of this cheap kibble with training treat sweeteners around to earn, even if it's not proffered as reward on the majority of successful completions.
  #174 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 07:11 PM
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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2010, 07:52 AM
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Re: Help with a nipping pup

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloudy Star View Post
Hi, had our little pup Tess for about a week now and she is settling down really well with us, however, she is really nipping at our feet and legs. It tends to be worse when she is excited for example first thing in the morning when she is full of energy. She is a 9 week old Springer Spaniel.

Has anyone got and advice of techniques to stop her doing this. My feet are gonna get sore otherwise and my trousers will become shorts!

Thanks
All puppies will explore their new world with their mouths and naturally will want to play with their mouths. Gently distract them with soft squeaky toys can help. Our PBGV, which are well known for play biting was, as he grew older gently discouraged with a water spray. This was recommended by our vet as a harmless 'stop'. It works really well when used as a final do not do this.

Enjoy your new puppy

All the best

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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2010, 02:52 PM
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Exclamation please Don't spray, shout, smack, tap, grab, throw rattle-cans...

Quote:
Originally Posted by hungry hector View Post
All puppies will explore their new world with their mouths and naturally will want to play with their mouths. Gently distract them with soft squeaky toys can help.
that's fine...
Quote:
Originally Posted by hungry hector View Post
bold added -

Our PBGV, which are well known for play biting was, as he grew older gently discouraged with a water spray.
This was recommended by our vet as a harmless 'stop'. It works really well when used as a final do not do this.
that's Not fine.
i don't care if it was recommended to U in a celestial vision at midnight during the dark of the moon,
and the spirit-visitor left U a crystal skull as a memoriam -

there are enormous reasons NOT to recommend any aversives, to * all dogs * or * all pups *.
and BTW - the younger the dog, the more enormous the potential for fallout, which can be very long-lasting.

please see this thread for an extensive discussion
Water Spraying unwanted behaviours - Pet Forums Community
of why aversives, punishers, interruptors and corrections can ALL have bad repercussions -
which unfortunately are unknown until after we use that aversive, punisher, interruptor or correction.
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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2010, 03:06 PM
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Re: Help with a nipping pup

Hi,
I am new to this site but I have a 12 week old Springer pup and just wanted to let you know his biting is getting better..I agree with all the ideas suggested but also we give him Ice cubes and cold carrots to help with his teething!
Jo
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2010, 03:25 PM
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Re: Help with a nipping pup

At the moment with all you trainers at loggerheads with one another these posts are going nowhere and are not helpful at all to any member fgs sort yourselves out and argue the toss in pms
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