B-Mod changes emotional responses, thus altering behavior...
Quote:
Originally Posted by katmac
Zara is a 2.5-YO female GSD. In the house she's generally obedient, biddable & a nice dog to be around.
She knows all the basic commands & [responds] accordingly. Her diet suits her (after much fiddling around...),
she's on Burns Fish & Brown Rice; she's great with the kids, & generally a pleasure to be around.
BUT  the moment she's taken for a walk, or even suspects she's leaving the house, all hell breaks loose.
In the morning, she'll start [to shake, pant, & whine] to extreme levels when I start [to dress] my children.
This reaches fever-pitch when I... put shoes on to leave the house. |
separating ALL the individual cues that U are planning to leave / take a walk is the first step:
get out the jacket... & lay it over a chair. PUT IT BACK after 5-mins. Pick-up Ur purse... carry it to the entry,
set it on the side-table, WALK AWAY. Put on shoes - & wear them around the house for 5-mins; take 'em off.
Etc, etc, etc.
see Protocol for Relaxation, Overall, DVM -
Quote:
Karen Overall, DVM
KAREN OVERALL'S BEHAVIOR MODIFICATION PROGRAM
Protocol for Relaxation
This program is the foundation for all other behavior modification programs. Its purpose is to teach the dog to sit & stay
while relaxing, in a variety of circumstances. The circumstances change from very reassuring ones with you present,
to potentially more stressful ones when you are absent. The purpose of the program is not to teach the dog to sit;
sitting (or lying down, if the dog is more comfortable) is only a tool.
The goals of the program are to teach the dog to relax, to defer to you, to enjoy earning a salary for an apropos,
desirable behavior, & to develop, as a foundation, a pattern of behaviors that allow the dog to cooperate with future
behavior modification (generally desensitization & counter conditioning).
This protocol acts as a foundation for teaching the dog context-specific appropriate behavior.
The focus is to teach the dog to rely on you for all the cues as to the appropriateness of [her/his] behavior,
so that [s/he] can then learn not to react inappropriately.
About Food Treats
This program uses food treats. Remember, the treats are used as a salary or reward, not as a bribe.
If you bribe a problem dog, you're defeated before the start. It's often difficult to work with a problem dog
who's learned to manipulate bribes, but there are creative ways - often using headcollars - to [fix] this situation.
First, find a food that the dog likes & does not usually experience. Suggestions include boiled, slivered chicken,
or tiny pieces of cheese. Boiled, shredded chicken can be frozen in small portions & defrosted as needed.
Individually-wrapped cheese slices can be divided into tiny pieces suitable for behavior modification while still wrapped,
minimizing waste and mess.
Consider the following guidelines in choosing a food reward:
1. Foods high in protein may help induce changes in brain chemistry that help the dog relax.
2. Dogs should not have chocolate.
3. Some dogs do not do well with treats containing artificial colors or preservatives.
4. Dogs with food allergies or taking monoamine-oxidase inhibitor drugs may have food restrictions
(i-e, cheese for dogs taking deprenyl).
5. Dog biscuits generally aren't sufficient motivation, but some foods are so desirable that the dog's too excited
to relax - something between these two extremes is preferred.
6. Treats should be tiny (pea-sized to half-pea sized) so that the dog does not get full, fat, or bored.
7. If the dog stops responding for one kind of treat, try another.
8. Do not let treats make up the bulk of the dog's diet; the dog needs a normal, well-balanced ration.
The Reward Process
Rewarding dogs with food treats is an art. Learning to do so correctly helps the dog focus on the exercises
& keeps everyone safe. To prevent the dog from lunging for the food, keep the already-prepared treats
in a little cup or plastic bag behind your back, & keep one treat in the hand used to reward the dog.
That hand can then either be kept behind your back so that the dog does not stare at the food, or can be moved
to your eye so that you can teach the dog to look happy & make eye contact with you.
The food treat must be small, so that the focus of the dog's attention is not a slab of food but rather your cues.
A treat of the correct size can be closed in the palm of the hand by folding the fingers & is not apparent when
held between the thumb & forefinger. When presenting the dog with the treat, bring a hand, with fist lightly-closed,
up quickly to the dog's nose (don't startle the dog), & turn your wrist to open your hand, with a treat on the palm.
When starting the program, let the dog smell & taste the reward so that [s/he anticipates] the reward for the work.
If the dog is too terrified to approach, place a small mound of the treats on the floor. [EDIT: no more than 5 to 10, max].
Then ask the dog to 'sit'; if the dog sits instantly, say 'Good dog!', & instantly open your hand to give a treat
while saying, 'stay'.
Getting the Dog's Attention
If the dog does not sit instantly, call [her/his] name again. As soon as the dog looks at or attends to you,
say, 'Sit'. If the dog will not look at you & pay attention, do not [repeat], 'Sit'. If you continue to give a cue
that you cannot [follow through], the dog learns to ignore that cue. If necessary, use a whistle or make
an unusual sound with your lips to get the dog's attention. [EDIT: kissy-sounds for a puppy, etc.]
As soon as the dog looks at you, say, 'Sit'. Use a cheerful tone. Some people may have to soften or lower their voice
almost to a whisper to get the dog to pay attention. Often this is because they've given previous cues by yelling.
The dog has very successfully learned to ignore this.
[EDIT:
raised voices can cause such dogs to ignore a loud cue, or shut-down & become entirely unresponsive;
a few will act-out, using action to lower their stress.
Humping is just one possible displacement-behavior - getting a needless drink, sniffing to try to calm
the handler, & other calming signals, stress-signals, or displacement behaviors may be shown.]
If the dog looks at you but does not sit, approach the dog to close the distance, raise the treat gently
to your eyes, and request 'sit'. Often just moving toward a dog helps the dog sit. Not only have you decreased
the distance, you appear taller & are over the dog; such behaviors are used in canine communication to get another dog
to obey. You can use these innate dog behaviors as long as you are careful.
* Never back-up a dog who is growling. [EDIT: approach, forcing a growling dog to back away.]
* Never corner a fearful dog.
* Never continue to approach a dog that acts more-aggressive, the closer you get.
* Remember, the point of this program is to teach the dog to relax & look to you for cues
about the appropriateness of her/his behavior. The dog cannot do this if upset.
If the dog still won't sit, consider using a headcollar. By using a long-lead you can request that the dog 'sit'
& gently enforce this from a distance, using the long-lead. Reward with a treat as soon as the dog sits.
Cautionary Note
If your dog is aggressive or if you're concerned about approaching her/him, don't do any of these exercises
off-lead until the dog complies willingly & reliably on-lead.
Fit the dog with a headcollar & work with the dog only on-lead at the outset. This allows you to close the dog's mouth,
if the dog begins to aggress. It's ideal interruption, as it meets the rule psychologists have established for ideal 'punishment':
you interrupt the dog's inappropriate behavior within the first few seconds of the beginning of the behavior,
so that the dog can learn from the experience. Be gentle but consistent.
Taking your anger or fear out on the dog will only worsen the behavior. As soon as the dog responds
to the halter & calmly sits, reward the dog & continue. Never reward a dog who is growling, lunging,
barking, shaking, or urinating.
After the dog sits for the first time, you are ready to begin the program.
Remember the following guidelines:
1. Use the dog's name to get the dog to orient to you & to pay attention.
If this doesn't work, use a whistle or a sound to which the dog is not accustomed.
2. Once the dog pays attention to you, say 'sit' & give the dog 3 to 5 seconds to respond.
If the dog does sit, reward instantly; if not, repeat the 'sit' cue in the same calm, cheerful voice.
You may want to experiment to see what tonal qualities get your dog's best response.
3. Don't worry about using the dog's name frequently or repeating the cue if the dog responds.
This is not obedience class; if you later wish to take the dog to obedience class, the dog will do well
if s/he did well on these programs. Making the adjustment will not be a problem.
4. Do not chase the dog around to try to get her/him to comply.
If necessary, use a small room with minimal distractions, & use a leash.
A headcollar provides even better management, AKA control. Use headcollars & other collars kindly.
A sample sequence could look like this:
'Bonnie, sit'... (3-second pause) - 'sit'... - (3-second pause) - 'Bonnie, sit'... - (move closer
to the dog & move treat to your eye) - 'sit'... - (Bonnie sits) - 'Good girl!' (treat) - 'stay!... good girl -
stay.' (one step backward whilst saying, 'stay', then halt) - 'stay'... good girl... stay.' (return whilst saying
'stay', then halt) - 'stay'... good girl! (treat) - Free!' (the releaser - Bonnie can rise -
Bonnie happily gets up & waits calmly for your next signal.)
Note that you talk nonstop to the dog during these programs. This type of talking is not allowed
in obedience classes, but is desperately needed with inexperienced puppies and problem dogs.
These dogs need all the cues that they can get. They need constant guidance & reassurance, a kind voice
with clear instructions. These instructions & reassurances should occur in the context of shaping: gradually guide
their behavior toward more-apropos behaviors. You have to learn to read subtle cues that your dog gives,
& use these to your advantage. You will find it easier than you believe. The one thing that you absolutely
cannot do, is to talk a continuous stream to the dog without receiving context-apropos responses
to your requests.
If you rush through everything, you only stress the dog & teach her/him to ignore everything you say.
This is not good. A corollary of this is that it's necessary to use consistent terminology & brief phrases,
in an environment where no-one else carries on long, loud, distracting conversations.
Avoiding Problems
- Do not push or pull on your dog, or tug on the collar to get the dog to sit.
These behaviors are viewed as challenges by some dogs & may make them potentially dangerous.
Use the methods discussed in the Protocol for Deference.
If you really believe your dog needs some physical help to sit, use a headcollar.
- Do not wave your hands or the treat around, in front of the dog.
Part of the point of this program is to make the dog calmer & less confused. Excitable behavior on your part
or unclear signals can make a dog more anxious. This does not help.
- It's important to be calm.
Your dog will make mistakes. This does not reflect on you.
Problem dogs and new pups require a lot of patience. The people who have had the most success with these
protocols, have been those who work the hardest & most consistently.
- Do not let your dog be a jack-in-the-box.
You must control the situation, & achieve that control by convincing the dog to defer to you.
If the dog gets up to get the treat every time it's offered, the dog controls the situation.
When the dog does this, consider whether you were too far-away when you offered the treat.
If so, move closer. Ideally, the dog is able to get the treat by stretching her/his neck.
The dog should not need to rise.
If you have a small dog, this may mean you must squat to offer the reward.
Be careful if the dog is aggressive - your face is now close to the dog.
- If you're close enough for the dog to do the exercise properly [hold the sit AND get the treat] & the dog still rises,
close your hand over the treat. You can safely deny the dog the treat at the last second if the dog breaks the stay.
Then ask the dog to sit again. After the dog sits, say 'Stay', wait 3 to 5 seconds, say 'stay' again,
& then give the treat. Two 'stays' with a period between them will reinforce that getting up without a cue,
doesn't work: the dog must be released. By asking the dog to stay twice, you tell her/him that whenever
there's a mistake, s/he must do two things to recover from it.
A sample sequence follows:
'Susie, sit.' (3 to 5-second pause) - [i]'sit.' (Susie sits) 'good girl!'... stay.' (start to give treat; dog gets up...
close hand over treat) - 'sit.'(Susie sits) - 'stay.' (3 to 5-second pause) - 'stay... good girl...
stay... good girl!' (give treat) - 'Free!' (Dog may get up, & does so.)
Do not tell the dog that s/he's good if it isn't true.
Don't reward shaking, growling, whining, or any other behavior that may be a component of the behavior
you are trying to eliminate. If the dog gets impatient & barks for attention, say 'Hush... - stay... good girl...
stay... good girl (treat) 'stay…'
If a vocal cue cannot quiet the dog, remember a headcollar can close the dog's mouth & abort a bark
before it sounds, so the interruption is the most-apropos possible. Lift up gently whilst turning the dog's head
to face you, place a finger before one's lips, & whisper, 'hush' - this is often very efficacious.
BE CAREFUL not to snap the dog's teeth shut on her or his tongue! That's very painful, can bruise or bleed,
& the area will be tender for days.
Finally, if you accidentally drop a treat & the dog gets up, DON't correct the dog; the dog made no mistake,
& you didn't deliberately drop the treat. Just start at the previous point, & go on.
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back to the OP...
Quote:
Originally Posted by katmac
When [we walk] along the street, if my son walks in front, she becomes APOPLECTIC. I am now conscious of people
looking out of their windows as we walk by, because of the noise & commotion that taking [her] for a walk creates.
Today, I put a Thundershirt on her & we tested it... the whole family [went] for a walk. OMG, she was the WORST
I've EVER seen her.... so bad [was her] anxiety that I feared she'd collapse, pass out, or someone would
contact the police for animal cruelty.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. I've had GSDs all of my life, & NEVER [seen] a GSD that displays anxiety to [her] level.
When we go further afield for a walk & [travel by] car, it's an absolute nightmare. I fear the distraction [caused
by] the dog's antics could result in an accident.
Once she's off-lead &... free, she's a bit hyper, but she's fine. She'll do as she's told, come back when called, etc.
At the end of a walk, she'll happily walk on the leash calmly, or go home in the car quietly, like any other dog.
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Calmatives are my first suggestion - see this post:
Pet Forums Community - View Single Post - dog body-language - and why it matters so much...
for What, When, How, etc; they are all OTC / no scrip needed, no interactions nor dosage worries, given
ad-lib; estimated duration of the effect is also there. I'd suggest at least 3 - 1 oral, 1 olfactory, 1 tactile.
since each one works with a different sensory mode, the most-effective one will support & magnify the other 2,
thus creating 'more bang for the same buck'. 
as another reply already noted, Anxiety-Wraps, ThunderShirts, Ace-wrap figure-8 body-wraps A'la T-touch,
or super-snug stretchy T-shirts with an Ace-bandage around the waist [use SAFETY PINS, not butterfly clips!]
are all spozed to be classically-conditioned a minimum of 5 times, before using them even
under low-stress - so it's not 'wear it twice, then wear it on a walk' - it's WEAR IT FOR A WEEK,
each night, during the quietest & calmest 20 to 30-mins of each night: i-e, after the kids are abed, while adults
are reading, watching telly, chatting quietly, or working at the PC, etc. NOT while grown-ups argue, 
even if they are arguing very quietly & with great restraint.  They need consistent association with calm,
contented circumstances; then & only then, can they be used in low-stress, recharged under happy,
contented circs, used under higher-stress, recharged, etc.
FOR EVERY 2 to 3 TIMES they're used under stress, there must be another wearing under contented, happy circs.
this is an ongoing requirement; it never ceases. Otherwise the tactile-calmative becomes a cue for stress:
precisely what we're attempting to combat. 
GSDs as a breed are notorious for emotional sensitivity, gut-issues [often emotionally triggered], & becoming
over-attached to a single person [often a precursor to Sep-Anx specific to that person]. They don't cope well
with any sort of aversive or punitive training, nor with harsh handling; they become 1 of 3 things as a result:
self-defensive & untrusting, shut-down & unresponsive, or anxiety-riddled & constantly hypervigilant.
it SOUNDS as tho Ur dog falls under variation #3: anxious & constantly waiting for the other shoe to drop?
was she an anxious puppy, or a bold, happy pup who explored novel items eagerly?
were any of the past-trainers harsh with her? Was she punished for housetraining errors [smacked, scolded,
had her nose rubbed in it, etc]?
Quote:
Originally Posted by katmac
I've [contacted] 3 dog behaviourists, tried the thundervest, she's walked at least 2 hours per day
(with lots of "fetch" to tire her). I've played... with her diet, I've tried Zylkene. She [was] checked... by the vet
to make sure there are no physical issues - there [aren't].
I feel I've tried everything to lessen [her] anxiety... when out with the children,
& I really don't know what else to do. ... when it's just me & [her]?
no problems.
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what academic credentials did the behaviorists have?
at this point, i'd suggest a veterinary-behaviorist: a DVM who is additionally board-certified with a specialty
in Behavior, just as other specialists are board-certified in opthalmology, dermatology, cardiology, etc.
they are few on the ground, but they are the ultimate recourse; they can prescribe psych-meds,
design a B-Mod protocol, evaluate her temperament, suggest safe management & ways to reduce
her reactivity / desensitize her, plus classically-condition her [make new happy associations with her
soon-to-be-former triggers].
if U don't want to consult a vet-behaviorist, i'd suggest that U buy a used copy
of 'Click to Calm' & use the DIY protocol as given, step by step, in the back of the book -
just like recipes, they lay out the tools, the methods, & how & when to use them, changing the protocol
over time, as the dog improves.
U may be able to borrow a copy of the book via the local library, if need be thru Interlibrary loan - however,
depending upon how popular the book is, U may not be able to renew the loan immediately. Hence my suggestion
that U buy Ur own used-copy via Amazon, Libris, CraigsList, Gumtree, etc.
__________________
terry pride, APDT-Aus, apdt#1827, CVA, TDF
*wolves R wolves, dogs R dogs, + primates R us.*
tmp, sept-2007 
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06-02-2012, 07:34 PM
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