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Dog Training and Behaviour Discuss dog training and behaviour problems in this section. Are you having problems with your dogs behaviour? Then submit your problems and get help from other members. Do you have some excellent dog training advice? then submit your details here to help others.

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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 16-10-2008, 11:38 AM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Ok, thanks for keeping me posted. We do have total control with her in the house. The only thing we have issues with is her jumping up, and she's recently getting very nippy when excited. But always comes when called, always stays, down, roll over, fetch anything she knows, she will do, first time, no treats. Brilliant.

As soon as we are outside....different dog.

Quote:
Apparently the more you are letting the dog off the worse it will get as they are always being positively reinforced...
I did think this but then i thought....she's a large breed, high energy dog. If i dont let her off the lead.....she doesnt get exercised untill my girlfriend can drive us to the forest......on Fri / Sat / Sun so....thats really not much of a life if you ask me. I mean i can take her on long, leaded walks, but by the time i am needing to sit down and have a lil drink and a pant, shes only just got warm. To tire her out sufficiently, on the lead, id need to do nothing all day bar eat, sleep and walk. Not possible.
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Old 16-10-2008, 05:37 PM
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Re: The dreaded recall

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Originally Posted by ryan View Post
Louise I disagree with your trainer, if you never let him off how will he ever learn? Dogs learn by doing and they know you are the leader without all the mumbo jumbo that some trainers and behaviourists posion the air with. If they don't come back they simply don't want to because the distraction is more rewarding than the reward for coming back.

All my puppies have been walked off lead from the day they came home to me, all without any problems. If you keep him stuck on the lead he will see being off the lead as much more of a special treat and be even less inclined to come to you. If you only recall him when you really need him to return to you he will be much more inclined to return on your call.
Sorry I didnt explain properly what was going to happen.

The reason we are not letting him off at all at the min is because the guy is on holiday and doesnt want us to do any more damage while he isnt there to help. I think if he hadnt been going on holiday he would of been able to get stuck right into training (I have a feeling it will be the long line technique) which would of made sure we are teaching zach the right way before just letting him off our way with no results whatsoever.

I dont for one minute think he will only recall the dog when we really need him to, thats the reason we are going to training... to make sure he comes everytime - so we know (or are a lot more sure than we are now) he will come back before we let him off.

I think the point the trainer was trying to make was doing it our way - with no control whatsoever - Zach is learning to completely ignore us and the situation will not get any better unless we try another technique
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Old 16-10-2008, 09:30 PM
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Re: The dreaded recall

I was taught at dog training to teach recall on lead until sure the dog obeyed the command without hesitating.
Maybe you could use the long line to help teach the 'come' voice command and also as a precaution for stepping on if needed but how about trying a dog whistle. Whistle = treat.
Sometimes we can have different tones in our voices without realising it, if we are in a bad mood or frustrated etc. A whistle takes this out of the equasion. Works most of the time with all my dogs and even if I haven't used the whistle in ages they still come back if I use it.
We also tend to tell our dogs off when they eventually do come back and this just associates coming back with a telling off. Best to ignore them if they run off and then decide to come back after they have ignored you.
If all else fails 'run backwards in the opposite direction of your dog calling come in a silly voice with your arms spread outwards' (same as the aeroplane theory and yes you will look a twit but if it works then hey?? if you chase after a dog it will run away if you run away it will chase you that is of course unless like on of mine is focused on a rabbit in that case and then Ive got no chance lol
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Old 16-10-2008, 09:48 PM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Quote:
Originally Posted by boodlebear View Post
I was taught at dog training to teach recall on lead until sure the dog obeyed the command without hesitating.
Maybe you could use the long line to help teach the 'come' voice command and also as a precaution for stepping on if needed but how about trying a dog whistle. Whistle = treat.
Sometimes we can have different tones in our voices without realising it, if we are in a bad mood or frustrated etc. A whistle takes this out of the equasion. Works most of the time with all my dogs and even if I haven't used the whistle in ages they still come back if I use it.
We also tend to tell our dogs off when they eventually do come back and this just associates coming back with a telling off. Best to ignore them if they run off and then decide to come back after they have ignored you.
If all else fails 'run backwards in the opposite direction of your dog calling come in a silly voice with your arms spread outwards' (same as the aeroplane theory and yes you will look a twit but if it works then hey?? if you chase after a dog it will run away if you run away it will chase you that is of course unless like on of mine is focused on a rabbit in that case and then Ive got no chance lol
Thanks for the advice I will try the whistle, its true my voice probably does vary a lot when calling him. Running like a loony doesnt really work, literally nothing will take his attention from the other dog when they are playing. Also I never ever tell him off when he eventually comes back I always praise him and treat him.

The long line thing I know will work eventually... I just need to get the hang of it properly, which I'm hoping the trainer will help me with. The lead either gets tangled around his legs, Im afraid he will do some damage when he tries to sprint to another dog. Or else it gets tangled around another dog that has come to play and I get in trouble for having thelong lead dangling. When I stand on it it sometimes slips from under my feet. I'm just useless at the whole thing, I end up getting really peed off and coming home all wound up because of it. Hopefully this new guy will drill it into me so I can walk him nicely with the long line...
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Old 17-10-2008, 07:42 AM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Quote:
Originally Posted by louise5031 View Post
Methical - for an update since we last spoke about this. I did find a dog trainer, went to see him and had a good moan about the recall. He simply asked if we had complete control in the house - I said no.

He said before we regain control in the house there is no way we'll be able to teach recall because he doesnt have a clue who the leader is; who's in charge. He has taught us how to walk to heel and has gone on holiday for 2weeks, and until he gets back and comes to our house to teach us to regain control, we aint allowed to let him off lead. Apparently the more you are letting the dog off the worse it will get as they are always being positively reinforced... every time they ignore you they get a treat (in the form of play with another dog) and so he is literally learning to run off rather than learning to come back... doh.

We apparently have to know he will come back before we let him off.

Could be his way of getting a pricey set of lessons... but I'm willing to give it a go...
Hi Louise,

Sounds like you've found a good trainer, so you're doing the right thing.

You're trainer is right... with any training, whether recall, sit, come, etc. You first have to make sure your dog is reliable in a particular command/request at home before you build in adding distractions.

Thinking about it it's quite simple really, if we're not in charge at home with our dogs how can we expect to be in charge outside

One very important training technique with dogs is called the
Premack Principle: An opportunity to engage in more probable responses will reinforce a less probable response
.

If you're out walking Zach off-leash and he sees another dog it is highly probable that he will want to go say hello and play (I know my Harley would for sure, everytime )

To explain the Premack Principle in humans terms, it is like telling a child "If you want to go out and play, you first have to do your homework" or "If you want to go ride your bicycle, you first have to tidy your room"

In canine terms, if Zach wants to go over and say hello and play with another dog, he first has to come back to you and check in, gets a treat and praise etc, then he can go play.

So what is happening is you are making Zach first perform a lower probability behaviour (coming back to you), and reinforcing this by then releasing him to perform a higher probability behaviour.

As with all training this takes time, consistency, patience, etc, and of course training starts at home.

An easy way to train this at home:

Have Zach on a 10 to 15ft leash/line
Throw a treat say 18ft away (idea is to throw it further than length of leash)
Hold on to the leash as Zach goes for the treat, just before Zach gets to the end of the leash
Give a gentle tug on the leash and call him back to you
Gently hold on to his collar while you praise, treat, pet etc
Then give your release cue and let him get the treat you threw

Gradually you can build in asking him to sit and stay 10 - 15 seconds before you release him, but to start off just release him within a few seconds.

Then when he is reliable performing this at home, start off from scratch out side, but with few distractions. When you build in more distractions, start from scratch each time.

Have fun!
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 17-10-2008, 07:53 AM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Thanks for that! I will have a go while we are waiting for mr trainer to return from his holiday. I remember the premack principle from psychology at uni, I knew all the learning theories would come in handy one day!! xx
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Old 17-10-2008, 08:47 AM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Hehe, just had the most amusing walk today in the park. I dont think other dog owners were as impressed but i certainly found it funny.

Daisy's recall shocking as ever so when we get to the park i put on the training lead and we begin the 'lets try and snap the training lead by running so damn fast' proceedure that always occurs.

So *yank* *yank* *yank*, *whine* *whine*, *yank* *yank* *yank* *yank*, *bark*. Now ALL dogs in the park are coming over to see what the collosal fuss is, including one, poor lil jack russel...poor thing.

Daisy knows what "come" means but once she realises she's on the training lead and my hands arent cold enough to drop it with some good tugging she'll tranform 'come' into what was formerly known as 'sit', causing the lead to become slack. Daisy's attention is focused on this shepard / dalmation mix thingy approaching from the front and does not realise the tiny lil JR coming in from behind, as soon as the other dog is in striking distance of the leads length she lunges full strength, the lead tightens fast and sends this poor JR flying into the air ... dog was fine and infact it made him rather playful, owner found it amusing aswell so...phew.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lousie5031
The long line thing I know will work eventually... I just need to get the hang of it properly, which I'm hoping the trainer will help me with. The lead either gets tangled around his legs, Im afraid he will do some damage when he tries to sprint to another dog. Or else it gets tangled around another dog that has come to play and I get in trouble for having thelong lead dangling.
When the lead gets tangled around Daisy's legs, before she decides to yank with all her strength again, just start to slowly pull it towards you. The aim is not to reel the dog in, but it will begin to lift the tied limbs. Not only does this mean that should she decide to bolt at something, she will not be able to gain enough speed to really yank those limbs out of place, it'll just make her / him roll over but usually, Daisy wiggles the leg out of the leash as she must find it a lil uncomfy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by louise5031
When I stand on it it sometimes slips from under my feet
This happened a few times with me, and once i did a little sideways summersault and landed on my ass in the middle of the park. But that was when i made a 30meter leed out of a seatbelt mechanism and about 5 seatbelts. It worked really well actually. If she walked slowly to the dog, then no problem but if she ran, the mechanism would lock up untill she relaxed.

ANYWAY, point being is that now im back with your standard 12m line. The one i bought didnt have a hand loop at the human end, make one. Then when u wana step on the lead, keep that in your hand, step on the lead. This means that instead of trying to put all your weight on a tiny, flat, thin, wet piece of lead that is undoubtedly gonna slip, for the lead to move, it needs to slice right through your foot....this is unlikely. Making sure that the lead forms a 90degree angle between your hand, your foot and the dog makes stopping atleast a 27kg lab in a fast, downhill sprint ALOT easier than standing on it and hoping
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Old 17-10-2008, 09:13 AM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Quote:
Originally Posted by Methical View Post

This happened a few times with me, and once i did a little sideways summersault and landed on my ass in the middle of the park.
Thanks for tips, lmao at the above quote. Your posts are so entertaining I personally hope Daisy never learns to recall
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Old 17-10-2008, 09:35 AM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Well at times, especially at silly 'o' clock in the morning, it seems as if that may be come a reality.
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Old 21-10-2008, 09:25 AM
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Re: The dreaded recall

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogpositivetraining View Post
Hi Louise,

Sounds like you've found a good trainer, so you're doing the right thing.

You're trainer is right... with any training, whether recall, sit, come, etc. You first have to make sure your dog is reliable in a particular command/request at home before you build in adding distractions.

Thinking about it it's quite simple really, if we're not in charge at home with our dogs how can we expect to be in charge outside

One very important training technique with dogs is called the
Premack Principle: An opportunity to engage in more probable responses will reinforce a less probable response
.

If you're out walking Zach off-leash and he sees another dog it is highly probable that he will want to go say hello and play (I know my Harley would for sure, everytime )

To explain the Premack Principle in humans terms, it is like telling a child "If you want to go out and play, you first have to do your homework" or "If you want to go ride your bicycle, you first have to tidy your room"

In canine terms, if Zach wants to go over and say hello and play with another dog, he first has to come back to you and check in, gets a treat and praise etc, then he can go play.

So what is happening is you are making Zach first perform a lower probability behaviour (coming back to you), and reinforcing this by then releasing him to perform a higher probability behaviour.

As with all training this takes time, consistency, patience, etc, and of course training starts at home.

An easy way to train this at home:

Have Zach on a 10 to 15ft leash/line
Throw a treat say 18ft away (idea is to throw it further than length of leash)
Hold on to the leash as Zach goes for the treat, just before Zach gets to the end of the leash
Give a gentle tug on the leash and call him back to you
Gently hold on to his collar while you praise, treat, pet etc
Then give your release cue and let him get the treat you threw

Gradually you can build in asking him to sit and stay 10 - 15 seconds before you release him, but to start off just release him within a few seconds.

Then when he is reliable performing this at home, start off from scratch out side, but with few distractions. When you build in more distractions, start from scratch each time.

Have fun!
Brilliant post.

You have to remember - if your dog does not recall outside but is reliable in the house, it does NOT mean he is necessarily choosing to ignore you. Until you proof the behaviour in all sorts of different situations/settings, you can't really consider the behaviour "trained". You have to gradually work up to recalling in the face of distractions etc.

Has anyone mentioned whistle training on here yet? I've been using a whistle for my girl and although her recall was pretty good anyway, the whistle seems to work ten times better. I think A) Because the high-pitch is easier for her to hear, especially when she's distracted and B) She knows that when she hears the whistle, I am about to LEG IT in the other direction, and that when she catches me she ALWAYS gets the absolute best treats - chicken, garlic sausage, a game of tug....
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