My little collie has a history of being difficult to "catch". He used to do that infuriating thing where they say just out of reach. I tried everything (and it's bloody difficult being cheerful and happy on the beach, in the dark, in winter when he's been ar*ing around for over an hour) but we got there in the end.

Or so I thought!

Today I just could not get him to come at the end of our walk. I don't know if it has anything to do with him getting a bit of a doing from a wee terrier earlier (no actual harm done, just lots of noise) and him not being out for a proper walk all week (I've been a bit poorly). It's very disheartening.

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts about how I should manage this. I can always tell when he isn't going to come by his body language (though I have difficulty describing it) and, as I said, it hasn't happened for ages.

In the past I have tried all the usual stuff (he was on a long line for about a year at one point) and somehow the behaviour just faded away.

Am I overreacting? Should I just treat this as a blip and not change anything?

Today I was worried that he would start to chase some children who were playing on scooters (he's a bit fixated with wheels--though he doesn't chase bikes or prams. He chases our wheely bin and the weelbarrow, which isn't a problem. Well it hasn't been.).
He's also terrified of skateboards-I think it's the noise- and I've been trying to get a hold of one so I can leave it, unmoving, in the garden and gradually get him used to it. He would bark furiously at them and I think it would be a bit scarey for kids. I was a bit concerned today when he was running around refusing to be caught that a kid on a skaetboard would appear and he'd go a wee bit mental I think he sensed my anxiety.

Phew! Sorry to be so longwinded. All suggestions gratefully recieved.

Thank you.

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Does he have games he likes? After my guy tried not coming out the park once to go home, or discovered wandering off with a toy, I'd rather not just leave there, I have made a little ritual of having a short play session near the park gates. Course I make it easy on us, by having things in my pack, so he can never be 100% sure what game it will be, which makes him curious. Has really cut the slacking and malingering, on avenue down towards exit.

The reactivity stuff, is basically the same as most of the other BC threads we've had lately. If you haven't check over this thread and resources, lemmsy's suggested a book to if you like dead trees Breed Specific Behaviourists?

Have you tried taking tit-bits in your pocket and calling him/them to you, rewarding and then letting them run off again at random intervals during your walks?

Start teaching recall again by back chaining. So teach the entire recall backwards.

First part of the sequence last: collar grab, hand target, the approach. Here's more: Rover! Rover? ROVER!!! – 100% rock solid reliable recalls | Pet Central's Pawsitive Dawgs Blog!

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"I've seen a look in dogs' eyes, a quickly vanishing look of amazed contempt, and I am convinced that basically dogs think humans are nuts." - John Steinbeck

"If you don't want your dog to bite you, don't be an a**hole to him." ~ Dr. Ian Dunbar

I know this sounds silly but have you tried running away? (not properly running away of course, but pretend running away whilst keeping an eye on him?)

Melon can be a little monkey when she gets a whiff of something interesting so I move about ALL the time, which is great with Collies as they like to herd me and know where I am

I also use high pitched voice, a squeaky toy and yell 'bye then' which my two know means I'm off somewhere - and they usually hare it after me as I make it sound like I'm having a right old party The reward when they get to me is a ball chase - is he fixated on balls or anything specific that you can turn into an extra special reward?

I also find stepping out of sight when they run off and whistling makes them look for me (it's also a great game which knackers them out a bit!)

Do you make sure you call him back and let him go lots of times before putting him back on the lead and heading home?

I also reckon you could be right about it being a blip - of course there's no harm to keep on with the training but sometimes my two will have a bad day and play up more and other times they will be so perfect I'll wonder where my dogs have gone and who put the angelic replacements in their place

(as an aside, I think we need a Collie thread because I am a sucker for Collie pics!!! )

The thing is though, the OP has allowed it to get beyond a blip.

I saw a "teenage" sign, and corrected myself right away, rather than hope it was a blip. The thing is, you cannot fool a Collie, he knows when he's going home, so best to have something he looks forward to.

Agree totally the best way to catch a Collie is to have a call to heel recall, and use it when you go somewhere fun, and move away from them. But you cannot be boring about the rewards for compliance, same old food reward won't be exciting enough if there's squirrels to chase.

Thanks for all the responses, guys
Twiggy said:
He is not particularly responsive to tit bits at the best of times, and particularly so when he's in this frame of mind, unfortunatly. When walking I regularly recall him and give him a fuss before letting him go. I also call him in to sit whenever a cyclist or group of people go past. He waits untill they are gone and then I release him. He likes this game, but I only do this on narrow-ish paths. We were in playing fields when he was acting up the other day.

Pawsitive said:
If only it were that simple! He does come with me. He isn't running off, he's just staying out of reach!
On the beach once, I decided I would just get in my car and see what he would do. The little b***er watched me from a distance them eyed up the beach for someone else to follow. He caught sight of a family group and just started following them!

Rob & Tripod:
i'm going to have a look at the links. I Think Rob's plan to have a rucksack with all sorts of goodies in it would work if he was not actually recalling. The difficulty would still be catching him, I think. Have I got that wrong? As I say, it's not the actuak recall (in fact he'll turn on a penny if I shout him and head back. People compliment me on that! I just can't get him close enough to get the blo*dy lead on!).
I'm going to have a look at Tripod's link as I was going to start clicker training with him. Perhaps this would be a good excersise to introduce it with.
D'you think that'd be a good idea or would that just confuse him?
One thing I am now certain of is that he is not confused. he knows precicely what I want him to do. He is merely trying to prolong out walks. I'm pretty sure, anyway!

Edit: Just want to add that I've had a quick look at Tripo's backchaining article and it addresses this actual problem! Hooray! Will be starting this immediatly (just going out for some more primula cheese first!)

__________________
Throughout history
Every mystery
EVER solved has turned out to be
Not Magic. T. Minchin

I avoid any grabbing, by playing... tug is perfect, idea is to leash during game whilst playing with left hand and continue it afterwards on leash. Hope it works for you.

Its important that all dogs know how to deal with being grabbed. Colalr grabbing a familiar dog is a common cause of bites, especially as we will often be grabbing the dog in an arousing situation.

This is why I teach collar grabs as one of the first stages of recall training - this means it builds up a massive reinforcement history and we proof this vital skill so that the dog loves being grabbed.

Collar grabbing and hand targeting (the first two stages of back chaining recalls) are easily taught with clicker training. Good luck!

__________________
Anne, owned by Rufus & Tripod

Pet Central site & blog
Join us on FaceBook & Follow us on twitter

"I've seen a look in dogs' eyes, a quickly vanishing look of amazed contempt, and I am convinced that basically dogs think humans are nuts." - John Steinbeck

"If you don't want your dog to bite you, don't be an a**hole to him." ~ Dr. Ian Dunbar

Its important that all dogs know how to deal with being grabbed. Colalr grabbing a familiar dog is a common cause of bites, especially as we will often be grabbing the dog in an arousing situation.

This is why I teach collar grabs as one of the first stages of recall training - this means it builds up a massive reinforcement history and we proof this vital skill so that the dog loves being grabbed.

Collar grabbing and hand targeting (the first two stages of back chaining recalls) are easily taught with clicker training. Good luck!

Absolutely - couldn't agree more.