I think the simple answer, based on the information provided, would be to simply train the dog, doesn't sound like a lot of that has gone on so far. The fact her dog is roughly 22 months old and she is currently training her seems a little odd, surely the dog should be trained by now?

Sorry if I've got the wrong impression but that's how it seems.

true, but we train our dogs everyday- surely?? whatever we do has an effect on their behaviour?

i use posiive inforcements- i wouldnt say i can speak "dog"- but it must be true that if we humans are more intelligent than our dogs we would find it easier to learn their language than for them to learn ours??
i keep this in mind when im trying to teach my dog new things -currently he can carry out 35 commands, on queue, without fail at the first command and he also knows all of these as a hand signal - i worry about his hearing when he gets old and it is also useful if i am unable to speak to him (ie leave if he is playing with something he shouldnt whilst im on the phone).
my dog was not going to be rehomed, he was offered to me by the RSPCA as i have worked with them in behavioural issues. he was toy aggressive, food aggressive, boisterous, hyperactive, seperation axious, aggressive towards men, other dogs, he was aggrophobic, the list was endless. now he plays fetch with my six year old cousin (supervised) my cousin has competed with him also in young handlers.

i believe in training my dogs everyday, consistently.consistence is the key to aiding any behaviour correction. i have a fantastic dog, i have seen vast improvements in the dogs i have recently required (the terrible twosome). they were housetrained in two days with these methods. i think we should all support this person with their puppy, i feel like ive just joined and youre alll being horrible to me simply because you use different methods. i think all our methods probably work, i wouldnt rubbish the way you train your dog. im hurt and angry that i even joined this forum looking for people who were interested in sharing ideas on dog training, i feel some people are looking for conflict and simply believe in just putting everyone down.

this person has asked for help now, which is a big step. instead your slagging her off for not training her dogs until now. instead i think its great that she is trying to correct the behaviour and we should all offer support and ideas.

maybe you could give some instruction on how she should train the dog? as everything she has tried has not worked until now....... i dont think this person knows what to do....

Yes, it is Fear-Aggression that Spike has, and I am aware of that. The thing is, I need tips on how to correct it. So far I learned that toys should be taken away at the end of playtime, to make it so the dog cannot become territorial over toys, and to praise him often, in order to build of confidence in the dog. Because of that, I feel I should begin a daily training and rewarding ritual, so as he learns commands, he is praised and rewarded. I think that can help build up confidence. My family and I have had dogs all our lives, even my parents, but the thing is, oddly, Spike is the first male dog, not to mention the first aggressive one that we have had. We don't lock him away when we have guests, but we have one person hold him, while the guest hold out his/her hand so he can sniff them, and if he seems accepting, they pet him and it seems to work to an extent. For whatever reason, he particularly doesn't like men. He isn't neutered, and since we are financially struggling, we are trying our best to save enough to get that done. As a puppy, Spike was extremely cowardly, and cried and whined and hid from everyone new to him, loud noises, other animals, besides his siblings and mother, and most things new to him. We tried to comfort him, but the cowardly nature only became fearful aggression. He is not abused, he is not neglected, and he has only been in one dog fight, to which he started with a neighbor's dog, and we were able to safely separate the two of them, without there being any casualties. I think these things will help. Do you guys have any other tips however??"

Also, being blunt is acceptable, because honesty is blunt, and I can take any tips you have without anger or irritation. So if you don't think I want to hear your ideas, because you think you'll be too blunt, you don't need to worry about it.

Thanks to anyone who offers advice!!!

i think that if you work through my advice you'll see an improvement because you'll assert yourself as the protector. your dog may feel that he has to be in charge- your placing him there. he might not want to be if he doesnt feel confident enough. try some online research and see what you think.

and until you have total control of him he should be muzzled and on a lead in public. sounds harsh i know but its better than being reported under the dangerous dogs act. your dog could be destroyed.

also try not to pick him up when strangers come in- it raises him up in the pack, increases his anxiety- he doesnt want a promotion he isnt confident enough. never try to settle him with sympathy.

as for neutering some charities offer it free. look up on line. celia hammond do it on discount.

He only needs to be on a lead and under contol, there is no reason to muzzle him.

Sounds like he has become aggresive because you have reinforced his fears by comforting him when he comes running to you, any un wanted behaviours of this nature should be ignored and good behaviours praised and rewarded.

this will help;

Step 1:

First, you will need to work on the sit/stay command without the interference of guests. Practice having your dog sit and stay for at least 2 minutes in a desired location, preferably the location that you want him in when he hears the doorbell or knock ("his spot").
Step 2:

Practice walking away from him, towards the door and do not allow him to move from his sit/stay position. If he moves, you will have to return him to the location and repeat the exercise.
Step 3:

Have a friend or neighbor ring the doorbell or knock on the door. Command your dog to sit and stay in the desired location. This should be the same spot every time. It works well to use a mat that is always out -- for instance, the doormat near your back door or garage, or the rug near the entryway, etc.
Step 4:

Do not leave the dog's side until he is sitting calmly. Slowly walk towards the door and open it to receive your guests. If your dog breaks the position, close the door. You need to take away the thing (people!) that he wants. Although it will keep your guest waiting, repeat the exercise until your dog waits to be released from his sit/stay at your command.
Step 5:

Give the release command (come, free, let's go, etc.) and allow your dog to approach the guest. Encourage your guest to bend down and greet your dog so that he doesn't feel the need to jump to her level. You might find it beneficial to leash your dog so that you may redirect him to the ground if he jumps. Also, have treats on hand that you can reward him with or use to direct his attention toward the ground.
Step 6:

Practice makes perfect. Enlist a friend to help with the training as often as possible. You'll know he is trained once the doorbell serves as a signal for him to go to "his spot" and wait for your command.

In training your dog to greet guests appropriately, it's important to focus on the behaviors that you do want from him. Soon enough, you'll begin to see those inappropriate behaviors disappear, take this training outside and teach you dog to sit and wait whilst you approach your friend to talk.

under the dangerous dogs act dogs who have shown aggression to physically injure people should be muzzled in all public spaces.

this may also help you to decide if you have a fear aggressive dog or a dominance aggressive dog;
nderstanding canine body language can offer insight into a dog’s emotional state. Some physical signals are obvious, some subtle, and some, misunderstood.

1. A wagging tail does not always indicate a friendly dog. That a wagging tail means a dog is happy or friendly has long been one of the biggest misconceptions among the dog-owning public. Misreading a wagging tail as friendly can not only be a mistake, but in some cases, dangerous. There are two things to consider regarding the tail: the actual wag, and the angle at which the tail is held. Picture a typical, happy Golden Retriever. The tail is held roughly parallel to the ground and wags in a loose, wide, swooping arc. That’s a happy tail! But if a dog’s tail is held higher than usual and moves stiffly in a tight arc, it indicates confidence and often dominance (this is often seen when two dogs meet nose-to-nose for the first time). It is also sometimes a precursor to aggression. If the tail is held low and wags in a fast, tight arc, the dog is probably anxious, frightened, or showing submission. If the tail is tucked, the dog is very frightened, unless that is the dog’s normal tail position, like some sighthounds. The trick is to be familiar with the usual position of your dog’s tail, and to pay attention to the various types of wags.
2. Ears can be subtle indicators. If a dog’s ears are flattened against the skull, the dog is afraid; but there’s more to it than that. A dog with prick ears (German Shepherds, for example) may indicate uncertainty about something by turning one ear slightly to the side, or laying it slightly back. When a dog is acting confidently, dominantly, or aggressively, the ears are often forward. These subtleties are easier to spot with prick-eared dogs, but even with flop-eared dogs (for example, Cocker Spaniels), the change in position can be seen if you are watching for it.
3. Muscular tension and freezing. When a dog is calm, the body musculature is relaxed, the movements fluid. When a dog becomes worried about something, he may momentarily “freeze.” The body and head will suddenly become motionless. If the dog’s mouth was hanging open in a happy pant, it will close momentarily along with the freeze. The dog is assessing something in the environment, deciding whether there is something to be concerned about. The dog may then flee, fight, or, having decided there is nothing to worry about, go about his business. Very often the first sign that a dog is going to act aggressively toward another dog is a freeze, accompanied by a lowered head, staring, and muscular tension in the body and/or face.
4. Raised hackles do not always indicate aggression. The hackles are the fur along a dog’s back. When these hairs stand on end, it is called piloerection. Often when the thick ruff of fur around the dog’s neck and shoulder area stands on end, it is assumed that the dog is going to attack. It is true that when a dog is acting aggressively, or wants to show another dog that he is dominant, the hackles may be raised. This makes sense, as raised hackles make a dog look bigger, and therefore more of a threat. But hackles may also be raised, sometimes all the way from the neck to the tail, when a dog is simply excited or aroused. Even the “omega” or bottom-ranking dog in a pack, may show piloerection when playing with dogs of higher rank.
5. Subtle stress signals. It is immensely useful to become familiar with your dog’s subtle stress signals. These may include yawning, lip licking, scratching at himself, sniffing the ground, or turning his head and/or body away from the thing that is stressing him. Yawning and lip licking are very common stress signals, but ones that most of us are not trained to look for. Once you become aware of your dog’s individual stress indicators, you will have a better idea of when something is stressing or frightening him. Keep in mind that no single body part or individual signal is completely indicative of a dog’s state of mind. Each must be considered as part of a whole to get a true picture of the dog’s internal state.

if he is fear aggressive this book will help; Help for Your Fearful Dog by Nicole Wilde. ive read it and it is brilliant.