
17-08-2008, 08:55 PM
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Pet Forums Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 520
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Re: westie wont walk on lead
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophiex
Thank you. That was really useful advice. (I know it wasn't for me but it saved me asking a similar question!  ) Today, I started the lead with Oscar as he's going for his first walk on Friday. We started with the collar a few days ago for short periods at a time. I let him trail the lead around the garden and then held it for a short while. He was biting the lead a lot, should I discourage it? I got a harness from the pet shop but is it ok to attach the lead to the collar? (I actually purchased the lead and collar together but got a harness as well). I was advised to use a harness but I feel it's too much for Oscar. Is there anything I should know about attaching the lead to the collar? Is there a particular way that is dangerous? Obviously I realise what movements would choke him but I'm worried I'll pull too hard as I know it will be challenging going for walks when he's first getting used to the lead. 
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Hi Sophie,
I think you mentioned in a previous post that Oscar is 10 weeks, is this right?
If it is then it's possible that he will be going through his first fear phase soon. During this phase (which occurs anywhere between 9 and 11 weeks), puppies can suddenly be fearful of everyday familiar objects, noises, etc., as well a new experiences; the kind that Oscar is likely to have outside on a walk.
With this in mind, if you do venture out in to the big wide world, you will need to be alert to your Oscar's body language. By all means carry on with his socialization as this is so important, but just be alert. If he shows fear of something, don't pick him up immediately, wait maybe 10 seconds and see if the fear passes, if it doesn't be ready to pick him up (yes it's okay to do this at this age, but don't make a fuss when you do, just be calm and happy), and create distance from whatever it is that he is fearful of.
This is all part of growing up for a puppy and the best thing to do is let Oscar revisit the the object, noise, or whatever again, without letting too much time pass.
It's funny you should say you have a harness, as this is what I give my clients for training their puppy's. Which one did you get? I always recommend the Premier Easy Walk Harness which is different from a traditional harness as the d-ring leash attachment is at the front and sits on the chest.
A traditional harness attaches on the back and actually encourage dogs to pull harder because of their 'opposition reflex'.
The design of the Easy Walk Harness stops pulling by gently steering a puppy/dog in towards the handler, thereby redirecting his attention toward you. And all without choking, gagging, or coughing.
The method I always use with this harness when teaching a puppy to walk to heel, is to never give the puppy any ground. This means the moment your puppy's head/shoulder is in front of your knee, you gently steer him in toward you and at the same time change direction.
In the same manner if your puppy should drag or walk backwards, you should walk backwards until your knee is just behind his head/shoulder, and again steer him in towards you and change direction.
I'll freely admit that this does require good timing, patience, and lots of treats to reinforce the desired heel position. But once you get the hang of it it's straightforward and it works.
However as with all training, I do suggest you get your Oscar walking to heel at home first before you take him outside. It really is the kindest thing anyone can do for a puppy. Home is familiar, and there should be minimal distractions, outside is a different story all together. So start off at home and don't progress to outside until you think Oscar has had that 'Aha' moment, 'so that's what you want me to do'.
If it takes a week, let it take a week. You can still socialize Oscar by taking him out in a fabric dog carrier (he's small right), and you can take him on short car trips.
You introduce the harness in the same way as the collar/leash. The only difference being that in order to get the fit just right you will need to adjust the fittings quite a few times which will mean removing the harness.
And now to answer you question 
It's perfectly normal for Oscar to bite on his leash, it's a new experience for him and he's not sure what he's supposed to do, is it a toy, is it a game? Just ignore it and give him something else to bite on/play with.
When you are getting him used to you holding the leash, hold it in your right hand, and have Oscar on your left, and keep a treat in your left hand (closed), but make sure he knows it there. Whenever Oscar is focused on you, and not the leash, praise him and give treats, and ignore all undesired behaviour.
When you are actually training the heel position start off with Oscar in the sit position at heel.
Note: The heel position is defined as, 'the area between the head and shoulder should be in line with your left hip'. When you stop your dog is to sit squarely at your left, his shoulder still even with your knee.
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